Hey guys i just recently sold my sxr 500 for a 700 tripple. It has 96 woody's studs down the middle, but 1 is tore out, is this a big issue? Where the hell is the dip stick to check the chain case oil? I don't even see where to add more, but i know there is the drain plug at the bottom. Last question, how's this sled goona match up against a 06 firecat 600, both sleds totally stock besides that im studded and he's not. Thanks guys
Ding
Darn Tootin'
The tear out shouldn't be an issue. Post a pic if want a more conclusive answer. Should have the same chaincase, so dipstick should be in the same place. Get on ice and you should smoke him. Might want to read the Tech Pages and search the forums for improving your sled to race him on snow. Setup is everything.
Excellent. I will get pic of tear out soon. To be honest i only had the sled 1 year and didn't even change the chaincase oil so i never had to mess it with...any idea where the dipstick is?Ding said:The tear out shouldn't be an issue. Post a pic if want a more conclusive answer. Should have the same chaincase, so dipstick should be in the same place. Get on ice and you should smoke him. Might want to read the Tech Pages and search the forums for improving your sled to race him on snow. Setup is everything.
YA*AM*A*HEAD
New member
number 20 is dipstick fill in same hole 8 ounces of oil if i remember correct look in track drive 2 diagram http://www.highlandsyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx
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Ding
Darn Tootin'
Front side of chaincase behind pipe. See parts manual pic and note posted above.
Ive been reading around and it looks like the sled is around 112-115 hp? Are they down on HP mainly because of reliability? I would think i 700 tripple would be at least 130
sleddineinar
VIP Member
Yamaha, tunes their sleds down a bit. There are things in the tech section on little mods you can do to gain some cheap hp. I recommend the reed spacers, rejetting and boring the stock muffler. It's all in the tech section.
extremelyfastmax4
New member
700 tripple single pipe is what its going 2 be unless u put after market pipes then add a nother easy 23 hp.
Mills
VIP Member
SRX123 -
To really wake that sled up use one of Turk's cluctch/gear setups from the tech page that will best fit your riding style. The head gasket/airbox/silencer mods do pick up about 5-7 HP. The other things that really help to free up HP and speed are:
1. Have your jack and drive shafts trued - you would be surprise how bent they are stock
2. replace/repack all driving line bearings including the idler wheels if the sled has more than 3,500 miles on it.
3. Turn the drivers (while still mounted on the drive shaft) round and true along with turning the track tensioner idler wheels true (freeze them and them turn them)
4. Follow all the instructions from Betheviper for how to take the slop out of your suspension and align it.
5. When putting the sled back together get the jack shaft / drive shaft and rear suspesion lined up as close to square as you can.
6. do the reed cage mod
If the If you decide to do the silencer mod wait. I have one already modded that you can try and if you don't like it then send it back. if you like it, the price will be pretty cheap like $25+shipping.
Mills
To really wake that sled up use one of Turk's cluctch/gear setups from the tech page that will best fit your riding style. The head gasket/airbox/silencer mods do pick up about 5-7 HP. The other things that really help to free up HP and speed are:
1. Have your jack and drive shafts trued - you would be surprise how bent they are stock
2. replace/repack all driving line bearings including the idler wheels if the sled has more than 3,500 miles on it.
3. Turn the drivers (while still mounted on the drive shaft) round and true along with turning the track tensioner idler wheels true (freeze them and them turn them)
4. Follow all the instructions from Betheviper for how to take the slop out of your suspension and align it.
5. When putting the sled back together get the jack shaft / drive shaft and rear suspesion lined up as close to square as you can.
6. do the reed cage mod
If the If you decide to do the silencer mod wait. I have one already modded that you can try and if you don't like it then send it back. if you like it, the price will be pretty cheap like $25+shipping.
Mills
how much a difference am i going to notice with the silencer mod?
SWEDE
New member
Just a little more mid and top end power, seems slightly louder at times, especially on hard surfaces or when your next to something.This sounds awesome in the mid range and these are already the best sounding sled out there!sxr123 said:how much a difference am i going to notice with the silencer mod?
SWEDE
New member
What type of shop did you have true up your shafts?Mills said:SRX123 -
To really wake that sled up use one of Turk's cluctch/gear setups from the tech page that will best fit your riding style. The head gasket/airbox/silencer mods do pick up about 5-7 HP. The other things that really help to free up HP and speed are:
1. Have your jack and drive shafts trued - you would be surprise how bent they are stock
2. replace/repack all driving line bearings including the idler wheels if the sled has more than 3,500 miles on it.
3. Turn the drivers (while still mounted on the drive shaft) round and true along with turning the track tensioner idler wheels true (freeze them and them turn them)
4. Follow all the instructions from Betheviper for how to take the slop out of your suspension and align it.
5. When putting the sled back together get the jack shaft / drive shaft and rear suspesion lined up as close to square as you can.
6. do the reed cage mod
If the If you decide to do the silencer mod wait. I have one already modded that you can try and if you don't like it then send it back. if you like it, the price will be pretty cheap like $25+shipping.
Mills
Mills
VIP Member
Just about any place the deals with automotive drive shafts can check and straighten your jack and drive shafts. They can also most likely turn your drivers true as well but, have them turn the drives with them mounted on your drive shaft so that the whole assembly is trued together. Again, follow Behtheviper's info on how to take the slop out of your suspension and get it aligned. Just search for Betheviper and he has the links in all of his posts.
Mills
Mills