The owners manual has me all screwed up 
Can someone in Moron terms explain to me What;
Spring preload is for (rider weight?)
Full rate adjuster (
)
Weight transfer (More or less)
This is for a stock 03 Viper the manual talks only in terms or hard or soft. I also would like to know what the diffrence is for weight transfer through the limiter straps Vs. the controll rods.
Any help would be great.
Can someone in Moron terms explain to me What;Spring preload is for (rider weight?)
Full rate adjuster (
)Weight transfer (More or less)
This is for a stock 03 Viper the manual talks only in terms or hard or soft. I also would like to know what the diffrence is for weight transfer through the limiter straps Vs. the controll rods.
Any help would be great.
REAR SKID
THE PRELOAD- VS. DRIVERS WEIGHT. THIS IS THE AMOUNT OF TURNS YOU WILL ADD OR SUBTRACT TO YOUR SHOCK. THE SHOCK BODY IS THREADED - MORE TURNS INCREASES "PRELOAD", AND SHOULD BE DONE IF YOU ARE HEAVIER. YOU CAN REDUCE SPRING LOAD FOR A LIGHTER RIDER. THE STOCK MACHINES ARE SET AT AROUND 170LB TO 200 LB RIDER DEPENDING ON YOUR STYLE. KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR CENTER SHOCK (THE FRONT REAR) TAKES THE MAJORITY OF THE INITIAL BUMP. CHECK OUT YOUR SPEC, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY MAJOR ADJUSTMENTS. KEEP IN MIND THE SPRINGS TAKE A FEW HUNDRED MILES TO BREAK IN. WAIT IF YOU CAN--UNLESS YOU ARE 100LBS OR 300LBS. LONG STORY LONG THE SUSPENSION SHOULD COMPRESS A BIT--COUPLEINCHES WHEN YOU SIT ON IT, BUT SHOULDNT GO TO THE FLOOR---TIGHTER IN THIS CASE DOES NOT = BETTER
THE CONTROL RODS WILL CHANGE YOUR WEIGHT TRANSFER OR HOOK UP. IF YOU INCREASE THE GAP ON THE TOP SIDE OF SLIDING CONTROL ROD YOU WILL FIND MORE HOOK UP.(JUST TURN THE NUTS TO INCREASE GAP) HOWEVER THIS WILL ALSO RESULT IN MORE SKI LIFT IN CORNERS, AND MORE BOTTOMING IN THE REAR. AGAIN ---BABY STEPS...AND CONSIDER THE CONDITIONS--ADJUST THIS FIRST --THEN YOUR SUSPENSION-
THE LIMITER STRAP WILL ALSO INCREASE TRANSFER (OR DECREASE) IF YOU LOOSEN THE STRAP THE FRONT OF THE TRACK WILL LOWER MORE T---TAKING LOAD OFF OF THE SKIS, AND INCREASING HOOK UP---BEWARE ---HANDLING WILL GO IN THE TOILET IF YOU GO MORE THAN 30MM. ALSO - YOU MAY ENCOUNTER --WELL NEXT TIME
MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS AFTER SHOCKAS HAVE A FEW HUNDRED MILES ON THEM (EXCEPT IN EXTREEM WEIGHT), AND DO ONLY ONE THING AT A TIME.
IF YOU DONT LIKE THE RIDE I WOULD CONTACT BRUCE AT PIONEER PERFORMANCE---HE CAN CHANGE THE INTERNALS (SHIMS ETC) FOR A BETTER RIDE YET. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SUSPENSION HAS BEEN TO WATCH THAT MIDDLE SHOCK NOT THE BIG REAR---
THAT 3 POSITION DEAL SIMPLY CHANGES THE ANGLEOF THE SHOCK--- I DONT FIND IT THAT HELPFUL---BUT IT DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE---IF YOUR BIG ADJUST TO THE HEAVIER POSITION (?c) OTHERWISE RUN IT IN B (MIDDLE)BE SURE TO LOOSE THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN THE BOLT (TIGHTEN WHEN DONE)
QUICK NOTE---BASELINE (ASSUME YOU ARE IN THAE 170-200LB WINDOW
EASY RIDER - ADJUST 3 POSITION TO A AND INCREASE THE TOP GAP OF CONTROL ROD BY 2.5 MM
AGGRESSIVE ADD A FEW (HALF WAY BETWEEN STOCK & MAXIMUM) TURNS TO THE MIDDLE SHOCK POSITION B ON QUICK RATE, A FEW TURNS IN THE REAR SHOCK , AND INCREASE ROD OPENING BY 2.5 TO 5MM (UPPER GAP) RUN 8 TO 10INCHES OF CARBIDE
AGAIN--ONLY A BASELINE ---I TAKE NO CREDIT & TAKE NO BLAME
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
THE PRELOAD- VS. DRIVERS WEIGHT. THIS IS THE AMOUNT OF TURNS YOU WILL ADD OR SUBTRACT TO YOUR SHOCK. THE SHOCK BODY IS THREADED - MORE TURNS INCREASES "PRELOAD", AND SHOULD BE DONE IF YOU ARE HEAVIER. YOU CAN REDUCE SPRING LOAD FOR A LIGHTER RIDER. THE STOCK MACHINES ARE SET AT AROUND 170LB TO 200 LB RIDER DEPENDING ON YOUR STYLE. KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR CENTER SHOCK (THE FRONT REAR) TAKES THE MAJORITY OF THE INITIAL BUMP. CHECK OUT YOUR SPEC, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY MAJOR ADJUSTMENTS. KEEP IN MIND THE SPRINGS TAKE A FEW HUNDRED MILES TO BREAK IN. WAIT IF YOU CAN--UNLESS YOU ARE 100LBS OR 300LBS. LONG STORY LONG THE SUSPENSION SHOULD COMPRESS A BIT--COUPLEINCHES WHEN YOU SIT ON IT, BUT SHOULDNT GO TO THE FLOOR---TIGHTER IN THIS CASE DOES NOT = BETTER
THE CONTROL RODS WILL CHANGE YOUR WEIGHT TRANSFER OR HOOK UP. IF YOU INCREASE THE GAP ON THE TOP SIDE OF SLIDING CONTROL ROD YOU WILL FIND MORE HOOK UP.(JUST TURN THE NUTS TO INCREASE GAP) HOWEVER THIS WILL ALSO RESULT IN MORE SKI LIFT IN CORNERS, AND MORE BOTTOMING IN THE REAR. AGAIN ---BABY STEPS...AND CONSIDER THE CONDITIONS--ADJUST THIS FIRST --THEN YOUR SUSPENSION-
THE LIMITER STRAP WILL ALSO INCREASE TRANSFER (OR DECREASE) IF YOU LOOSEN THE STRAP THE FRONT OF THE TRACK WILL LOWER MORE T---TAKING LOAD OFF OF THE SKIS, AND INCREASING HOOK UP---BEWARE ---HANDLING WILL GO IN THE TOILET IF YOU GO MORE THAN 30MM. ALSO - YOU MAY ENCOUNTER --WELL NEXT TIME
MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS AFTER SHOCKAS HAVE A FEW HUNDRED MILES ON THEM (EXCEPT IN EXTREEM WEIGHT), AND DO ONLY ONE THING AT A TIME.
IF YOU DONT LIKE THE RIDE I WOULD CONTACT BRUCE AT PIONEER PERFORMANCE---HE CAN CHANGE THE INTERNALS (SHIMS ETC) FOR A BETTER RIDE YET. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SUSPENSION HAS BEEN TO WATCH THAT MIDDLE SHOCK NOT THE BIG REAR---
THAT 3 POSITION DEAL SIMPLY CHANGES THE ANGLEOF THE SHOCK--- I DONT FIND IT THAT HELPFUL---BUT IT DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE---IF YOUR BIG ADJUST TO THE HEAVIER POSITION (?c) OTHERWISE RUN IT IN B (MIDDLE)BE SURE TO LOOSE THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN THE BOLT (TIGHTEN WHEN DONE)
QUICK NOTE---BASELINE (ASSUME YOU ARE IN THAE 170-200LB WINDOW
EASY RIDER - ADJUST 3 POSITION TO A AND INCREASE THE TOP GAP OF CONTROL ROD BY 2.5 MM
AGGRESSIVE ADD A FEW (HALF WAY BETWEEN STOCK & MAXIMUM) TURNS TO THE MIDDLE SHOCK POSITION B ON QUICK RATE, A FEW TURNS IN THE REAR SHOCK , AND INCREASE ROD OPENING BY 2.5 TO 5MM (UPPER GAP) RUN 8 TO 10INCHES OF CARBIDE
AGAIN--ONLY A BASELINE ---I TAKE NO CREDIT & TAKE NO BLAME
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
REAR SKID
THE PRELOAD- VS. DRIVERS WEIGHT. THIS IS THE AMOUNT OF TURNS YOU WILL ADD OR SUBTRACT TO YOUR SHOCK. THE SHOCK BODY IS THREADED - MORE TURNS INCREASES "PRELOAD", AND SHOULD BE DONE IF YOU ARE HEAVIER. YOU CAN REDUCE SPRING LOAD FOR A LIGHTER RIDER. THE STOCK MACHINES ARE SET AT AROUND 170LB TO 200 LB RIDER DEPENDING ON YOUR STYLE. KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR CENTER SHOCK (THE FRONT REAR) TAKES THE MAJORITY OF THE INITIAL BUMP. CHECK OUT YOUR SPEC, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY MAJOR ADJUSTMENTS. KEEP IN MIND THE SPRINGS TAKE A FEW HUNDRED MILES TO BREAK IN. WAIT IF YOU CAN--UNLESS YOU ARE 100LBS OR 300LBS. LONG STORY LONG THE SUSPENSION SHOULD COMPRESS A BIT--COUPLEINCHES WHEN YOU SIT ON IT, BUT SHOULDNT GO TO THE FLOOR---TIGHTER IN THIS CASE DOES NOT = BETTER
THE CONTROL RODS WILL CHANGE YOUR WEIGHT TRANSFER OR HOOK UP. IF YOU INCREASE THE GAP ON THE TOP SIDE OF SLIDING CONTROL ROD YOU WILL FIND MORE HOOK UP.(JUST TURN THE NUTS TO INCREASE GAP) HOWEVER THIS WILL ALSO RESULT IN MORE SKI LIFT IN CORNERS, AND MORE BOTTOMING IN THE REAR. AGAIN ---BABY STEPS...AND CONSIDER THE CONDITIONS--ADJUST THIS FIRST --THEN YOUR SUSPENSION-
THE LIMITER STRAP WILL ALSO INCREASE TRANSFER (OR DECREASE) IF YOU LOOSEN THE STRAP THE FRONT OF THE TRACK WILL LOWER MORE T---TAKING LOAD OFF OF THE SKIS, AND INCREASING HOOK UP---BEWARE ---HANDLING WILL GO IN THE TOILET IF YOU GO MORE THAN 30MM. ALSO - YOU MAY ENCOUNTER --WELL NEXT TIME
MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS AFTER SHOCKAS HAVE A FEW HUNDRED MILES ON THEM (EXCEPT IN EXTREEM WEIGHT), AND DO ONLY ONE THING AT A TIME.
IF YOU DONT LIKE THE RIDE I WOULD CONTACT BRUCE AT PIONEER PERFORMANCE---HE CAN CHANGE THE INTERNALS (SHIMS ETC) FOR A BETTER RIDE YET. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SUSPENSION HAS BEEN TO WATCH THAT MIDDLE SHOCK NOT THE BIG REAR---
THAT 3 POSITION DEAL SIMPLY CHANGES THE ANGLEOF THE SHOCK--- I DONT FIND IT THAT HELPFUL---BUT IT DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE---IF YOUR BIG ADJUST TO THE HEAVIER POSITION (?c) OTHERWISE RUN IT IN B (MIDDLE)BE SURE TO LOOSE THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN THE BOLT (TIGHTEN WHEN DONE)
QUICK NOTE---BASELINE (ASSUME YOU ARE IN THAE 170-200LB WINDOW
EASY RIDER - ADJUST 3 POSITION TO A AND INCREASE THE TOP GAP OF CONTROL ROD BY 2.5 MM
AGGRESSIVE ADD A FEW (HALF WAY BETWEEN STOCK & MAXIMUM) TURNS TO THE MIDDLE SHOCK POSITION B ON QUICK RATE, A FEW TURNS IN THE REAR SHOCK , AND INCREASE ROD OPENING BY 2.5 TO 5MM (UPPER GAP) RUN 8 TO 10INCHES OF CARBIDE
AGAIN--ONLY A BASELINE ---I TAKE NO CREDIT & TAKE NO BLAME
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
THE PRELOAD- VS. DRIVERS WEIGHT. THIS IS THE AMOUNT OF TURNS YOU WILL ADD OR SUBTRACT TO YOUR SHOCK. THE SHOCK BODY IS THREADED - MORE TURNS INCREASES "PRELOAD", AND SHOULD BE DONE IF YOU ARE HEAVIER. YOU CAN REDUCE SPRING LOAD FOR A LIGHTER RIDER. THE STOCK MACHINES ARE SET AT AROUND 170LB TO 200 LB RIDER DEPENDING ON YOUR STYLE. KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR CENTER SHOCK (THE FRONT REAR) TAKES THE MAJORITY OF THE INITIAL BUMP. CHECK OUT YOUR SPEC, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY MAJOR ADJUSTMENTS. KEEP IN MIND THE SPRINGS TAKE A FEW HUNDRED MILES TO BREAK IN. WAIT IF YOU CAN--UNLESS YOU ARE 100LBS OR 300LBS. LONG STORY LONG THE SUSPENSION SHOULD COMPRESS A BIT--COUPLEINCHES WHEN YOU SIT ON IT, BUT SHOULDNT GO TO THE FLOOR---TIGHTER IN THIS CASE DOES NOT = BETTER
THE CONTROL RODS WILL CHANGE YOUR WEIGHT TRANSFER OR HOOK UP. IF YOU INCREASE THE GAP ON THE TOP SIDE OF SLIDING CONTROL ROD YOU WILL FIND MORE HOOK UP.(JUST TURN THE NUTS TO INCREASE GAP) HOWEVER THIS WILL ALSO RESULT IN MORE SKI LIFT IN CORNERS, AND MORE BOTTOMING IN THE REAR. AGAIN ---BABY STEPS...AND CONSIDER THE CONDITIONS--ADJUST THIS FIRST --THEN YOUR SUSPENSION-
THE LIMITER STRAP WILL ALSO INCREASE TRANSFER (OR DECREASE) IF YOU LOOSEN THE STRAP THE FRONT OF THE TRACK WILL LOWER MORE T---TAKING LOAD OFF OF THE SKIS, AND INCREASING HOOK UP---BEWARE ---HANDLING WILL GO IN THE TOILET IF YOU GO MORE THAN 30MM. ALSO - YOU MAY ENCOUNTER --WELL NEXT TIME
MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS AFTER SHOCKAS HAVE A FEW HUNDRED MILES ON THEM (EXCEPT IN EXTREEM WEIGHT), AND DO ONLY ONE THING AT A TIME.
IF YOU DONT LIKE THE RIDE I WOULD CONTACT BRUCE AT PIONEER PERFORMANCE---HE CAN CHANGE THE INTERNALS (SHIMS ETC) FOR A BETTER RIDE YET. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SUSPENSION HAS BEEN TO WATCH THAT MIDDLE SHOCK NOT THE BIG REAR---
THAT 3 POSITION DEAL SIMPLY CHANGES THE ANGLEOF THE SHOCK--- I DONT FIND IT THAT HELPFUL---BUT IT DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE---IF YOUR BIG ADJUST TO THE HEAVIER POSITION (?c) OTHERWISE RUN IT IN B (MIDDLE)BE SURE TO LOOSE THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN THE BOLT (TIGHTEN WHEN DONE)
QUICK NOTE---BASELINE (ASSUME YOU ARE IN THAE 170-200LB WINDOW
EASY RIDER - ADJUST 3 POSITION TO A AND INCREASE THE TOP GAP OF CONTROL ROD BY 2.5 MM
AGGRESSIVE ADD A FEW (HALF WAY BETWEEN STOCK & MAXIMUM) TURNS TO THE MIDDLE SHOCK POSITION B ON QUICK RATE, A FEW TURNS IN THE REAR SHOCK , AND INCREASE ROD OPENING BY 2.5 TO 5MM (UPPER GAP) RUN 8 TO 10INCHES OF CARBIDE
AGAIN--ONLY A BASELINE ---I TAKE NO CREDIT & TAKE NO BLAME
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
Ok 230 lbs in the middle of agressive to adverage trail rider, I should have said that in the first place, thanks for the info 
anything else would be great what obout the skis is there any adjustment needed there.
thanks for the info anything else would be great what obout the skis is there any adjustment needed there. SUSPENSION
OK 230 LBS RUN THE QUICK ADJUST IN THE MIDDLE - SAY "B" TAKE YOUR MIDDLE SHOCK, AND TIGHTEN THE NUTS(TURN UP PRELOAD) 3/4 OF THE WAYBETWEEN STOCK, AND THE MAX SETTING
tHE REAR REAR SHOCK---ADD ABOUT 5-7 TURNS (OR 1/2 OF THE WAY FROM STOCK TO MAX) IF IT RIDES LIKE A LUMBERWAGON - TAKE SOME OUT, BUT BE SURE TO DO BOTH (GET THE RIGHT TOOLS)
iNCREASE THE GAP BY ONLY 2.5 MM ON THE CONTROL ROD--
YOU HAVE ENOUGH WEIGHT TO PLANT THE REAR END, AND IF YOU INCREASE MORE GAP YOU WILL NEED TO TURN UP THE REAR REAR MORE.
THE SKI'S DO NOT ADJUST, BUT RUN SOME GOOD CARBIDE --SAY 8 INCHES.
AGAIN- EACH PERSON HAS A DIFFERENT IDEA OF CRUISER & AGGRESIVE---BASELINE ONLY---BABY STEPS OR YOU WILL GO OUT OF YOUR MIND
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
OK 230 LBS RUN THE QUICK ADJUST IN THE MIDDLE - SAY "B" TAKE YOUR MIDDLE SHOCK, AND TIGHTEN THE NUTS(TURN UP PRELOAD) 3/4 OF THE WAYBETWEEN STOCK, AND THE MAX SETTING
tHE REAR REAR SHOCK---ADD ABOUT 5-7 TURNS (OR 1/2 OF THE WAY FROM STOCK TO MAX) IF IT RIDES LIKE A LUMBERWAGON - TAKE SOME OUT, BUT BE SURE TO DO BOTH (GET THE RIGHT TOOLS)
iNCREASE THE GAP BY ONLY 2.5 MM ON THE CONTROL ROD--
YOU HAVE ENOUGH WEIGHT TO PLANT THE REAR END, AND IF YOU INCREASE MORE GAP YOU WILL NEED TO TURN UP THE REAR REAR MORE.
THE SKI'S DO NOT ADJUST, BUT RUN SOME GOOD CARBIDE --SAY 8 INCHES.
AGAIN- EACH PERSON HAS A DIFFERENT IDEA OF CRUISER & AGGRESIVE---BASELINE ONLY---BABY STEPS OR YOU WILL GO OUT OF YOUR MIND
GOOD LUCK
JOHN
Brad
New member
- Joined
- May 23, 2003
- Messages
- 403
tuning rear skid
you can go to your dealer and get as suspention tuning book with a video for the pro action suspention
you can go to your dealer and get as suspention tuning book with a video for the pro action suspention
Thanks for info bleueje sounds like you know your stuf.
Brad I am going over to my dealer tonight and I will ask about the book and vid.
Thanks again
Brad I am going over to my dealer tonight and I will ask about the book and vid.
Thanks again