winterfunguy
New member
I just received my 1.52" (144)studs, to stud my ripsaw in my 01 SRX. The sled has a 03 Viper rear skid and stock 9 tooth drivers. Are there any potential problems with running the 1.52" studs on this configuration? I am after .25" penetration and plan on studding the outer belts of the track to have cornering traction as well as straight ahead traction.
those are some big studs your putting on, lots of guys here don't recommend anything bigger than 1.06-1.2. you might better off putting on smaller drivers like 8th or 7th for clearence
winterfunguy
New member
1.06 or 1.2 don't do much good with a 1.25" Ripsaw though
the 1.5 are going to take out your front exchanger fast if you don't go down in driver size
winterfunguy
New member
If I drop my front driver by 1 tooth would that clear? I can't beleive that no one has run 1.5 studs in a SRX before. There is no way I'm the only guy running a studded ripsaw...How much should I adjust my gearing to make up for dropping a tooth on the drive?
winterfunguy said:
From what I've read, 8 tooth drivers will allow for clearance up front but you'll still have to deal with the rear HX. I can undersrand the desire to run a deeper lug/stud and if I didn't already have the 1" Aggressor I may have persued going longer, but near as I can tell you're axing for trouble with the stock drivers and rear HX protectors.
I'm using a 1" full width lug track and 1.075" studs with tunnel protectors and rear HX protectors and still had slight contact on the rear HX. Maybe adding some material to the HX protector would keep it away.
Swapping to a Viper skid didn't change the issue with rear HX contact but running the track a bit tighter (stock spec) did.
twomorestrokes
New member
Recommended stud length for the 1.25" ripsaw is 1.325". Even with that length you'll be bending and breaking a few. Some folks run 1.450" but that's pushing it on the trails.
I am installing a ripsaw on my PZ500 (same tunnel but no heat exchangers to worry about) and I'm very worried about the 1.325" Gold Diggers even with the 8 tooth drivers I'm putting in. There is evidence of lots of contact with the old track with 1.0" Warthogs with the 9 tooth wheels.
I'll only stud the center of the tracks from now on. I've had lots of track damage issues when doing the outside. This sled had been studded since '99 and does not have enough power to rip the track, but the outer studs are twice as worn as the others.
I am installing a ripsaw on my PZ500 (same tunnel but no heat exchangers to worry about) and I'm very worried about the 1.325" Gold Diggers even with the 8 tooth drivers I'm putting in. There is evidence of lots of contact with the old track with 1.0" Warthogs with the 9 tooth wheels.
I'll only stud the center of the tracks from now on. I've had lots of track damage issues when doing the outside. This sled had been studded since '99 and does not have enough power to rip the track, but the outer studs are twice as worn as the others.
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super1c
Super Moderator
Like the rest said your asking for a lot of trouble. I have a 1.25 lug and 1.32 studs, running 8 tooth drivers and still a couple of dings in the heat exchangers and tunnel. Dont stud the outside of the track, especially if you run those 1.5 studs as your buddies behind you will be picking them out of their front ends. They will rip out of the outer edge for sure. When i bought my sled they studded the outside and their were a few pull through and i just took them out. Fine now. CCC
super1c said:
I had over 7k miles on the OEM Polaris track in my XCR studded inside and out. Having said that, it was replaced due to an outside stud becoming a flap which took out the front HX. Replaced it with a 1" Aggressor with 1.075" also inside and out.
I put that same track into my SRX and the track has over 5k miles on it with no tear-outs. Admittedly the Aggressor is much more beefy than most other aftermarket tracks and stud length isn't tall like a 1.375" or 1.450", but I just don't have issues (i.e. tear-outs) running studs on the outside like others have. There are two others in my group with similar positive results studding on the outside.
If I had to guess I'd say it's due to careful use of the throttle on hard surfaces... and perhaps the aggressor track holds up better than an OEM or thinner aftermarkets.
twomorestrokes
New member
snomofo said:
I'll agree with that part. The track on my SX was ruined from the outer studs tearing through, and I'm convinced it was from hard cornering on trails. Just too much pressure on them, being on the outer belt and also having the skid wheels pressing down on them to boot. My Vector has 144 1.325's down the center and I don't have to worry about careful use. They've been in there for 5 years. The studs have bent or broken but never hurt the track.
twomorestrokes said:
Perhaps I didn't phrase it properly...
I was suggesting to be careful on dirt, concrete and other surfaces studs weren't signed for. In low snow or unknown base conditions I'm careful not to spin the track.
IMO and experiences - as long as you're riding on snow or ice, aggressive cornering isn't a factor.
twomorestrokes
New member
Wasn't trying to start an argument. Glad your studding pattern is working for you with your current track. You did state that you had a track failure once due to an outer stud related failure that took out a heat exchanger didn't you?
I don't like to have to be concerned about the outer studs when trail conditions get a little worse for wear, like they do frequently in Michigan. Having to worry about my track when I'm sledding with friends and the trails are whooped can sure put a damper on the trip while they are way up front having fun. If the corners were always groomed and snow covered, that may be a different story. I'm just relating what happened to me when I used to stud the outer belt. I want the stud to bend or break BEFORE the track is damaged, and that's been my experience since I started studding just in the center. I'd much rather replace a couple studs every season than a track. I'm putting a track in now and it's not the most fun job. 1.325" studs or longer like the original post was suggesting are awfully long to be out on the edges imo but yes, there are folks that do it. I have a Ripsaws on a couple sleds now and they are not particularly beefy tracks.
I don't like to have to be concerned about the outer studs when trail conditions get a little worse for wear, like they do frequently in Michigan. Having to worry about my track when I'm sledding with friends and the trails are whooped can sure put a damper on the trip while they are way up front having fun. If the corners were always groomed and snow covered, that may be a different story. I'm just relating what happened to me when I used to stud the outer belt. I want the stud to bend or break BEFORE the track is damaged, and that's been my experience since I started studding just in the center. I'd much rather replace a couple studs every season than a track. I'm putting a track in now and it's not the most fun job. 1.325" studs or longer like the original post was suggesting are awfully long to be out on the edges imo but yes, there are folks that do it. I have a Ripsaws on a couple sleds now and they are not particularly beefy tracks.
winterfunguy
New member
I understand the fact that it is much easier on the track to run all the studs down the center, which I think I will. I have posted my 1.52" for sale on Craigslist but want to know how long of a stud can I run? I own a SRX and all the power is kinda pointless if I cant put it to the ground, and that means studs. I seem to have adequate clearance between the front cooler and the 1.52 studs but I don't know how much the track will balloonat WOT. any opinions on 1.375 with 9 tooth drivers...
with stock drivers,,, you will sooner than later have a trail of green behind you............
super1c
Super Moderator
winterfunguy said:
I dont know everything winter but from what i do know and what ive read running the 9 tooth drivers with studs that long will only lead to failure at some point. Keep the track and get some 8 tooth drivers off a scrap sleed. See them her enough, just keep your eye out. CCC
twomorestrokes said:
It's all good brother. Yeah, I did have a failure of the outside which happened to have a stud on it which took out the front HX. The track had a bunch of miles on it but the way I see it, it failed at low speed but if it had come apart at let's say 80-90 mph, things could have been worse.
...and I've seen my share of tracks coming apart at the outside at speed so your points are certainly valid. And I've noticed on new sleds the tracks seem awful thin so perhaps your concerns are even more warranted.
The trade off for me is more bite while cornering (in good conditions) and as I get older judicious use of the load lever comes more natural.