super1c
Super Moderator
I have been shiming my ski's and it works great. Only problem is has anyone figured out how to shim the ski without the bumper getting wrecked after a few rides. I even store the sled with the tips up to keep presure off the rear of the bumper but they still get indents on the top of the rubber then you have to start over with new ones. Getting to be a PIA. CCC
I have about 12 years using this trick and havent seen an issue. How much shim are you using and what are you doing to hole it in.
I just cut them out of heater hose, a little curved from the hose shape. Make it a little wider than the spindle width, flex it and slide it in. the curve and the tight fit make them stay in. Can't remember ever loosing one.
I just cut them out of heater hose, a little curved from the hose shape. Make it a little wider than the spindle width, flex it and slide it in. the curve and the tight fit make them stay in. Can't remember ever loosing one.
super1c
Super Moderator
I have been doing the 1/4 aluminum glued and screwed to the bottom of the bumper like the ones daman made. Im not losing the shims, just that the top of the bumper indents where the spindle meets the bumper and after a while the shim is useless. The bumper dents in every bit of that 1/4. I can tell when its time to change the bumper as the sled starts to dart.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Just wanted to put this out there to see if anyone had an answer.
In the Dennis Kirk catalog, page 134, there are replacement ski dampers. It appears that 10-5954 and 10-5955 look the same. Was wondering if thickness(height) was different.
Would save us from shimming. Or are they just wider?
In the Dennis Kirk catalog, page 134, there are replacement ski dampers. It appears that 10-5954 and 10-5955 look the same. Was wondering if thickness(height) was different.
Would save us from shimming. Or are they just wider?