mattyg1405
New member
pulled the dip stick for the chaincase and got a nasty surprise:
the tension was perfect theres no slack or anything just dirty amd is the metallic shavings a bad sighn?
what kind of oil could i use as lube for the chainxase? whats a good oil and wheres the drain plug?
thanks
ps 3800 miles on the sled ... i was nervous when i first pulled it there was alot o metallic
the tension was perfect theres no slack or anything just dirty amd is the metallic shavings a bad sighn?
what kind of oil could i use as lube for the chainxase? whats a good oil and wheres the drain plug?
thanks
ps 3800 miles on the sled ... i was nervous when i first pulled it there was alot o metallic
Last edited:
rx1jim
New member
Metallic sludge on the dipstick magnet is normal, especially if you have not cahnged the oil in many miles. The drain plug is on the inside of the tunnel. Do not just drain the oil and refill it. Drain the case then remove the cover, you will have to take out the exhaust can. Wash out the entire chaincase with brake cleaner, wipe out the case with shop rags. I would also take the bolt out of the lower gear so you can take the chain off. Inspect the chain for broken links. The shop manual has the spec for the maximum chain stretch due to wear of the links and pins. Clean the chain thouroghly and the gear. Reassemble using loctite blue on the lower gear bolt and torque to the spec.. Set the chain tension with the cover off then install the cover and fill it with high quality chaincase oil. I do not use the low viscosity chaincase fluids, I prefer a synthetic 75-80W fluid. Klotz makes a good chaincase lube, it contains molybdenum disulfide which is an excellent supplement to the oil.
I service the chaincases on my sleds this way every season. Draining and refilling is insufficient attention to this critical part of the drive line.
I service the chaincases on my sleds this way every season. Draining and refilling is insufficient attention to this critical part of the drive line.
mattyg1405
New member
thanks i will do so this way....rx1jim said:
will i need a gasket for the chaincase? do you know the part # ? i am far away from a dealer that deals with sleds but i could order parts if i have the part number...
rx1jim
New member
The gasket on the chaincase does not have to be replaced. You can use it over hundreds of times.
akrievins
New member
Make sure to drain and re-fill the chain case if you ever end up in water up to the case.
I had water sitting in mine and when it was cold out it would freeze and I couldn't go anywhere.
I had water sitting in mine and when it was cold out it would freeze and I couldn't go anywhere.
Ya I check mine for the metal shavings frequently and change the chaincase oil yearly. One of the most overlooked maintenance items.
Mike
Mike
This is my first time doing the oil....how much oil is needed in the chain case?
for my viper gear oil #SAE 75 or #80SAE 0,25l or 8,5 US oz
We use synthetic chain case lube from Klotz. I comes with every 4 gallons of injection oil. So, we have enough for all 5 sleds with 20 gallons of injection oil. Al
bADa$$ SRX
New member
80-90w gear lube works too, heck of a lot cheaper than "chaincase" oil, cant be much difference, i would actually be surprised if it was different
Actually it is alot differant than standard 80-90w gear lube.bADa$$ SRX said:
For instance Chain case lube is 10w and has a pour point of -25F. Gear lube is not intended to be used as chain case lube. Completely differant dynamaics. Oh, a 12oz bottle of Klotz chain case lube is $10
Good luck Al
bADa$$ SRX
New member
heard alot of guys use ATF without problems too
alswagg said:
X2 - I used 75-90 Amsoil for years. Also used Type-F trans fluid. All without issues.
I currently use 10w30 Mobil-1. One quart will last two seasons.
bADa$$ SRX
New member
alswagg said:
i meant the chemical compound aka "slipperyness, lubing abilitles" whatever you wanna call it, it is thicker but its used in trucks and only reccomended you change it every 50k so why wouldnt you be able to use it in a sled that you change it every 1k? tcases and diffs are basically the same thing as chaincases except more complex
I used Mobil One for a couple of years, then went w/Klotz. It was only a few bucks, and it's formulated for the task. i use Klotz in the motor too. Smells a lot better than Interceptor! When I ride with my nephew, and his buddies they always like following me. They say the other sleds smell like dog ****.
How much does a chain, and gears cost? The main issue is, how much does it suck to break a chain, poss; a chain case.
Gotta remember, these aren't new machines, they've all got a few miles on them.
Good Luck, John
How much does a chain, and gears cost? The main issue is, how much does it suck to break a chain, poss; a chain case.
Gotta remember, these aren't new machines, they've all got a few miles on them.
Good Luck, John
bADa$$ SRX said:
Most of today's light duty t-cases use ATF. In fact, many manual trans cars/trucks use ATF instead of high weight gear lube.
Figured this might help.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I think it's Kabota tractors that use ATF in a closed loop system to power and lube....trans, hyd and drive train. Or something like that. It's a 1 fluid system.snomofo said:
A couple of bucks said:
Interesting. Kinda makes sense from a complexity stand point.
Don't know about the others, but New Process and ZF use ATF in t-cases mated to auto-transmissions and have been for years.
The MTX in my '83 "race" Escort used ATF.
Is it really a good idea to spray the inside of the case down with brake cleaner? I can picture the brake cleaner drying out the seals and potentially ruining them.
Also, if you have the chain case half apart, might not be a bad time to change out the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings and seals. I just did mine last season and they definitely needed it.
Also, if you have the chain case half apart, might not be a bad time to change out the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings and seals. I just did mine last season and they definitely needed it.