crazykid
New member
I was just thinking of putting a complete viper suspension front and rear on my srx, I have read about the difference in the way a viper front shock mounts. Now i wasjust wondering why no one has cut the shocks and switched the mounting eyelets, and welded it back on. Is this even possible? I havent really even looked at the shocks, just thought of doing the swap just now as i was reading about it.Ant input? would it work? Forgive me if this idea is totally out of this world. Thanks
I actually did exactly that, and wouldnt recommend it.
The clevis on the Viper shock is not just held on by the two weld beads on each side, it is actually welded through the middle to the end of the shock shaft. Although it doesnt appear to be, it is! If you were to try it, just cut the two sides of the clevis, not the horizontal flat piece.
The clevis on the Viper shock is not just held on by the two weld beads on each side, it is actually welded through the middle to the end of the shock shaft. Although it doesnt appear to be, it is! If you were to try it, just cut the two sides of the clevis, not the horizontal flat piece.
9801srx
Member
thats how i did it on mine,but theres alot more to it than just welding the eyelets on.crazykid said:I have read about the difference in the way a viper front shock mounts. Now i wasjust wondering why no one has cut the shocks and switched the mounting eyelets, and welded it back on. Is this even possible? I havent really even looked at the shocks, just thought of doing the swap just now as i was reading about it.Ant input? would it work? Forgive me if this idea is totally out of this world. Thanks
9801srx
Member
exactly ,thats what i did,cut the ohlins upper mounts to correct length and tig'd to the flat partSno-Xr said:I actually did exactly that, and wouldnt recommend it.
The clevis on the Viper shock is not just held on by the two weld beads on each side, it is actually welded through the middle to the end of the shock shaft. Although it doesnt appear to be, it is! If you were to try it, just cut the two sides of the clevis, not the horizontal flat piece.
crazykid
New member
Those are some great ideas, Sure am glad i asked first, Now i am thinking of cutting the sides off and cutting the flat piece to the right thickness and rewelding the sides on and using a bushing between the two side pieces, ya think that would work? Thanks for the input guys.
crazykid
New member
That way if i screw something up i wont have chopped up the srx shock. Thanks again guys, Thinking about it, With my luck this could have turned out soooooooooooo Bad.
crazykid
New member
Ya know what guys i have a complete viper, Would i gain anything by swapping the complete frontend, Meaning the trailingarms, spindle, radiusrods and such?would that even work? I have no idea what i am doing yet guys. Let me know your opinions and experiences. Thanks again
crazykid said:Ya know what guys i have a complete viper, Would i gain anything by swapping the complete frontend, Meaning the trailingarms, spindle, radiusrods and such?would that even work? I have no idea what i am doing yet guys. Let me know your opinions and experiences. Thanks again
You'll increase the susp travel and ski stance. You could swap out the bulkhead too which eliminates the need to modify the top shock mount which I believe is about 2" higher than the SRX mounting point. Change out the sway bar too if you go this far as the Viper is wider so you wouldn't need to shim the links to accommodate the narrower SRX bar.
IMO - adding susp travel/increasing ride height without widening the ski stance is only half the upgrade and you'll end up with excessive inside ski lift.
May be desirable for side hilling/mountain riding but not for a flat lander.
Again, I dont recommend modding a shock, but I used the ends of radius rods as my top eyelets. They are the right width and already have the steel sleave bushing and plastic inserts.
Also, I fabbed my own top shock mounts that placed the top of the shock further up in the chassis.
Also, I fabbed my own top shock mounts that placed the top of the shock further up in the chassis.
9801srx
Member
like i said before theres alot more to it than just the shocks.to make the suspension work properly front end must be widened,upper shock mounting location has to be raised and moved in to get the shocks at the right angle or you won't get the full 9" travel and when the suspension is fully extended the steering will bind. takes alot of trial and error to make it work right.not sure about using a full viper front end because i didn't have one but i know if you use the viper bulkhead your gonna have to do some serious damage to your pipes to get them to fit anymore. unless your very good at fab work and have a good understanding of front end geometry i wouldn't try it,but thats up to you .you know what your good at or not.