Srx700 Rear suspension problem?

A

Adde

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I bought my sled a month ago and the seller said that the hyfaxes were changed. Well when I checked them they were totally worn out, even had eaten a bit of metal because of that..

Well I changed them and was just shortening the limiter straps so the hyfaxes would last longer.. But even as I did this the back of the track is up in the air when the sled is on flat ground.. As it looks all the weight is on the front of the track..

Is that right or is the suspension all screwed up? When I lift the sled up the spring in front of the track has no preload at all.. Anything I should do or shall I leave it like this?

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There's a technical service bulletin your dealer should have on file for hte set up of the SRX. In '00, they changed the geometry to get more weight transfer, great for racers, not so great for high milage riders.

You can pull the limiter straps up, but you're losing travel when you do this. I'd suggest letting off some preload on the center shock if you can, and tuning the skid to your weight.

I'd also add more studs! Don't know how many miles on those studs, but 48 isn't near enough, you'll be tearing those out quickly if you get on it at all. Good luck!
 
srx rear suspention problem

your picture looks right,But you might wont to put some more studs in that track i suggest 144. On my 2001 I had wear problems to what I did was replace the four front wheels with polaris wheels and run your track loose.Slack your track off to the point the track skips then tighten it a half turn at a time till it doesn't skip any more and you will be good to go. I put 2500 miles on last winter and still had about 1-1.5 mm left on my slides.For me that was the longest i ever got out of a pair of siders
 
Thanks Guys,

I havent been able to ride much with it yet because lack of snow.. So I havent even tried to set up the suspension right yet, but I will do that later on and see how it goes. I just got a bit worried if there was anything wrong when it looked like it did.

As for the limiter straps, i did shorten them to 1/3 from the shortest end. And then the center shock coil is really loose when I lift the rear of the sled. But, as I said I need to ride a little to see how it feels before trying anything more.

The studs were there when I bought the sled. They go in a zikzag pattern in the middle of the track. Is it possible to get a good pattern when I want to put in some more studs, even thou the current pattern? And as I have little experience from studded tracks: Do they help much on packed snow or is it just on ice? And when you put more studs, doesnt it start to vibrate or make noise from the wheels running over all stud mountings?

I think the service bulletin can be hard to find here in Finland, but who knows. Ill Ask around =)
 
tighten the limiters full tight, take the upper control rod spacer and cut it in half (it came with 15mm spacer reduce it to 7.5mm) then put a 2.5mm spacer on the bottom of each control rod. the front shock on the rear suspension should be able to spin while the weight of the sled is on it. it shouldnt be ultra loose, it should spin though. this is called zero preload. after that put the f.r.a in the middle position and set the gaps in the control rods with the rear suspension rear spring to have equal distance bewteen the two. i ran this last year 4000 miles on one set of hyfax. i weigh about 200 lbs with gear on. the tighter you run the limiters the more ski pressure you have so it may dart a bit in certain conditions. also the tighter the limiters the more the rear of the track will set closer to level. some folks have even taken their limiters and drilled holes in them one inch tighter so you can pull the track down flat. ski
 
Personally, I don't care for the limiters being pulled "all" the way up because of the loss of travel but they definately need to be pulled up quite a bit from the stock position. When I adjusted mine from the stock position I did not change the center shock preload. It was at zero when stock and then ended up being preloaded after tightening the limiters. This worked well for me and my weight but I was also a little heavier than Skidooboy. 'Dooboy, shouldn't the zero preload be with the rear of the sled suspended and then have a little preload when it's setting on the ground? Depending on how much the front shock compresses with the weight of the machine, could the zero preload without the back lifted allow the spring to be too loose when it is and maybe cause problems?

What do you have on there for skis? I had mine adjusted perfect for what and how I ride but when I put the C&A Pros on it screwed everything up because of the lower mounting position. Now I'm back to adjusting to get the track to sit more flat.

Here's some things I also noticed between the stock and "new" setup. With the stock setup and the back up off the ground like in your picture I still blew through my first set of hyfax in about 500 miles and that was with 6 over-sized wheels in the skid and the additional little wheels up at the bend. After adjusting and loosening the track it was much, much better. As for handling, I thought it sucked stock. I even though about selling it because I didn't like it. I think with the back of the track off the ground like that you get a lot of teetering effect. Great for drags... bad for trails. When running at speed and then hitting the breaks for a corner it would get real squirrelly... felt like it would transfer all of the weight to the front and then it was like you only had about a foot of track on the gound in the back. Once I got the track sitting flatter all of these bad characteristics went away.
 
zero preload would be with the weight off sled (ie; elevated rear) but when the sled sits on its own you should still be able to twist the spring. as for the rear of the track sitting flat all you can do is raise your front end of the sled with shock mounts or shock shaft extensions or shorten and tighten your limiter straps. to make the rear of the skid pivot down the front must come up. now with the new long travel i have done on my srx this year, i had to cut new holes in the limiters to get the attack angle of the rail where i needed it to be for the track to sit flat. even though i have shortend the travel and straps remember, i longtraveled it too so, i still have more front arm travel than any stock srx set up. do not be afraid to pull your limiters up you can always change it back in a few minutes. yes your ski pressure will be higher but is that a bad thing? with c&a's and stock skis the answer maybe yes, but you need to be the judge of that. i personally think c&as on a srx are not an option at all. they lower the front end causing more pivot issues at the rear. causing more hyfax wear at the front due to the rail pressure. simmons and doo dual runners need more ski pressure anyway, so this set up for me works well. the big thing is to pull straps up alittle, smaller lower transfer rod spacer, and loosen the track till it ratchets then tighten it till it goes away in small increments. this will all but eliminate hyfax wear. that is what the yamaha hyfax bulletin says in a nutshell. ski
 
srx rear suspention problem

the srx is designed to have the back of the track off the ground.it's there so when get on the throtle hard you get 4-6 inch's of ski lift,it's there for transfer.if you wont to learn how to set up the por action suspention get the suspention tuning book and video from your dealer this will give you a better under standing of your suspention.your dealer might have one that you could borrow.
 
Right on Brad. The factory TSB tell you how to put your skid back to pre'00 specs. '98 and '99 srx's didn't have the big issue, because the rails were parallel with the ground, and they also didn't have a big sensitivity to lower ski mounts as the '00's and up did.

For the work involved, setting the skid up like a '98 would solve all of those problems, and make the sled very even handling too.
 
Are the book and video specific to the SRX or are they generic to all pro action suspensions? Anyone have part numbers?

Where can one view the referenced TSB?
 
srx rear suspention problem

the manual is for all 1997 and up pro action suspentions.if you have to buy one i paid $20.00 canadian
 
;)! I believe I have the manual on my computer at home as a pdf file if anyone wants it.
 
Question??

I long traveled me 02 srx with viper shocks, 1/4 " extensions on the tranfer rods. the center spring is at zero preload and the straps are at 28mm. rear spring is at like MED setting. FRA is at the softest, rods have equal gaps. Sled handles great in the trail this way.

but for racing the sled doesn't hook up all that great (it has 168studs).

can someone guide us to a set up that would be easy to change for racing on hardpack? i was thinking of just give the center spring a few turns tighter from zero preload and letting the straps out maybe 1/4 inch. I do play with the transfer rods and yes it does help. But it would be nice to be able to crank the center spring, but you can't cause of the slider wear. any suggestions????

Thankx, Nelson
 
if you crank that center spring you will get more weight transfer. If you're just racing hyfax wear isn't an issue
 
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