skid in, sled wont move

Truckkid42

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i finnally got the skid installed. :o| i started the sled to move it around, and the thing wont move. i reved it up to 6k and nothing. could i have not hooked up something in the chain case right?? the track is tight, but not too tight i think. it will go into reverse and move a lil, like a jerk. but not moving forward or backward. it does have 8t anti ratchet driver by the way. :o| :o| :o|

any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 

Will the track spin by hand with no weight on it? If not i would guess that you got somthing mixed up in the case? Track binding somewhere? First try spinning track by hand. CCC
 
I have done it before put to long of a bolt on back of brake rotor and bound it up so it would not move
 
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00sxrjoe said:
I have done it before put to long of a bolt on back or brake rotor and bound it up so it would not move


Break not right is a good thought too. Had a lot of trouble with mine post track change. Thats why now i just unbolt bearing collar on clutch side of jackshaft and pull case and break all together out of the way.
 
Make sure the drive teeth on the anti ratchet drivers isn't hitting the shaft of the W arm. I put them on a Vmax 4 with a pro action skid and had to trim them.
 
yes on my sled i put yhe 9 tooth drivers on & the tooth was hitting the front W arm.had to reach upin there w/ small grinder & shavem all down a littil so the track would turn.i would look in to that
 
00sxrjoe said:
I have done it before put to long of a bolt on back of brake rotor and bound it up so it would not move
Yep,been there done that.Check your bolts that fasten the brace on the right side (recoil) to the frame,I'd be willing to bet you put a long one or two in the hole by the brake rotor and they are binding things up.There are 7? bolts I think all together one long one with a nut on it that goes through the chaincase that you could not mistake for any thing else but the other 6 are close to being the same length but you will be able to see that a couple are shorter than the others and these go in by the rotor.
 
^^ :) :) :) :)

Sooo Pumped. Got It, That Was The Problem :) Took The Sled Around My Front Yard, It Ripped!!!! Its Been 2 Months At This. Soo Pumped.... Probably Wont Be As Pumped Tomorrow When I See My Front Yard :/
 
i put a 8 tooth anti ratchet driver setup in my viper , pretty sure walbro brand if that matters, tips shortened (info learned on ty before installing), get it installed in sled it would roll and bind, anti tips somehow would miss holes and catch clips, seemed like it was the wrong pitch driver, out of the sled it rolls in track great, installed it binds, i did have it out and in many times, now its on the self,so i just used stock 9 tooth and 1 3/4" track with no protectors, maybe something to check
 
Which bolts are these??

fourbarrel said:
Yep,been there done that.Check your bolts that fasten the brace on the right side (recoil) to the frame,I'd be willing to bet you put a long one or two in the hole by the brake rotor and they are binding things up.There are 7? bolts I think all together one long one with a nut on it that goes through the chaincase that you could not mistake for any thing else but the other 6 are close to being the same length but you will be able to see that a couple are shorter than the others and these go in by the rotor.
Are these the bolts the hold the back of the chaincase to the chassis?? or the ones that go through the outer cover to hold that on?? I think I'm having the same problem? Something seems like it's binding in mine after a track change. Thanks Gil
 
gil7247 said:
Are these the bolts the hold the back of the chaincase to the chassis?? or the ones that go through the outer cover to hold that on?? I think I'm having the same problem? Something seems like it's binding in mine after a track change. Thanks Gil


Never knew this either gill but its a good thought. Im having trouble picturing what he's talking about also. I think he means that longer bolt that holds the case to the frame that has a nut on it by the break. Only one i can think of. Curious now to. I never removed that bolt from the frame so it could be longer then the rest. HMMMMMM :dunno:
 
super1c said:
Never knew this either gill but its a good thought. Im having trouble picturing what he's talking about also. I think he means that longer bolt that holds the case to the frame that has a nut on it by the break. Only one i can think of. Curious now to. I never removed that bolt from the frame so it could be longer then the rest. HMMMMMM :dunno:
Same Here.....
 
I see what he means now I checked mine. It looks like the toper one or 2 cover bolts if they were too long (like 1/8- 3/16") they could touch the rotor. I guess I got lucky and did it right. I can move my rotor about 1/2 to 3/4" by hand back and forth and it moves freely, whew!!!
If we don't get snow pretty quick I'm gonna have to buy another project. I've ran out of stuff to do to mine!!
Gil
 
gil7247 said:
I see what he means now I checked mine. It looks like the toper one or 2 cover bolts if they were too long (like 1/8- 3/16") they could touch the rotor. I guess I got lucky and did it right. I can move my rotor about 1/2 to 3/4" by hand back and forth and it moves freely, whew!!!
If we don't get snow pretty quick I'm gonna have to buy another project. I've ran out of stuff to do to mine!!
Gil


Yea not only ran out of stuff to do, (i think iv'e polished the paint off my sled) but end up in a padded room with bluemonstor like someone mentioned in the merry christmas post. LOL :rofl: Its down times like this that gets me into trouble. IE cant leave well enough alone. As the old saying goes, Fix it till its broke!
 


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