2ooosrx
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I have seen on this site that people use the stock rods and put a 7.5 mm extension on it to make it longer for long travel like this provided by cardguy
http://www.totallyamaha.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=470
however, couldnt you just cut 7.5 mm out of the stock plastic spacers?? llet me know
http://www.totallyamaha.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=470
however, couldnt you just cut 7.5 mm out of the stock plastic spacers?? llet me know
what do you mean....he is adding that part of the rod to let the suspension fall out farther when you are airborn or pounding mogul to mogul.
2ooosrx
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couldn't you just sand or cut down the spacer that is already there to give it more travel also??
it depends on what sled...not all the Yamahas have the same bottom spacer.
2ooosrx
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I am running haucks old transfer rods, I think it will work, makes sence the way I see it.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
nope, even with a 2.5mm spacer on the bottom, it will not let the suspension sit flat in the back, the extension is needed as the shaft of the rod is too short. If you have this problem, as soon as you remove the bottom bolt, the skid will instantly sit correct and the rear wheels will not be sitting up off the ground by 2-3 inches. you will then understand why the shaft must be made longer, because the end of it will be up inside the bottom of the transfer rod housing.
Rambunctious
New member
the key is to dial in the proper gap (top and bottom) when you are on the sled. in cardguys case, and mine, when adding the long travel extending the stock rod was required. I made mine 10mm longer, thus allowing thicker various bushing that i made on a lathe to dial it in. I am by no means an expert as i have only jsut completed the long travel and set up with 10mm gaps top and bottom. will try thsi setup and also try less gap (down to 7.5mm gap) to see the effect.
so see what gap you currently have, then determine if you need longer rods and then different spacers.
i read here somewhere that 7.5-10mm was the range of gaps for the proaction, as more will change the suspension geometry out of parallel too much and strain things.. makes sense to me.
hope this helps
Ramb
so see what gap you currently have, then determine if you need longer rods and then different spacers.
i read here somewhere that 7.5-10mm was the range of gaps for the proaction, as more will change the suspension geometry out of parallel too much and strain things.. makes sense to me.
hope this helps
Ramb
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