I recently put in new pistons and rings in my 500 XT. I cracked my Y-Pipe last year and melted the piston right above the ring. During my rebuild I took my time washing the glazing off each cyclinder. I checked cross hatch which was good. Put it back together and had a low end bog. At idle the sled would blip back and forth from running good to sounding like its running on one cyclinder. I've had the carbs off several times, they are spotless. They have been soaked all jets have been taken off and cleaned with a tooth pick, carb cleaner, and compressed air.
I put new plugs in and ran it. Initially it sounded good, but then went back to the way it was before and now its worse. It did idle very high at first which caused me to turn down the idle. Now when I hit the throttle its just bogs or wants to die.
My new plugs are as white as they went in so I'm assuming I'm lean. The top of each piston was wet as well.
How can I tell if my floats are where they need to be. I found in the tech section stock specs, but where do I measure it. Any other advice is welcome as well. Everything on this sled is stock including the jetting.
I put new plugs in and ran it. Initially it sounded good, but then went back to the way it was before and now its worse. It did idle very high at first which caused me to turn down the idle. Now when I hit the throttle its just bogs or wants to die.
My new plugs are as white as they went in so I'm assuming I'm lean. The top of each piston was wet as well.
How can I tell if my floats are where they need to be. I found in the tech section stock specs, but where do I measure it. Any other advice is welcome as well. Everything on this sled is stock including the jetting.
tcdesignguy
New member
Are you saying both cyl are behaving the same way?? i.e. both plugs read the same, and if you put your hand on both cyl while running they feel the same temp etc??? This will go a long way in figuring out the cause.
Also, regarding carb cleaning I use this method and it's the best i've found.. take 2 empty pill bottles and fill one of them with works bathroom cleaner. Pull out all brass in the carbs and put in the bottle with the cleaner. you can then clean carb body with cleaner or soak and check passages.
You'll see white frothing from the works... It eats the crap out of varnish. After 5-10 minutes i slowly dump the works from 1 pill bottle to another careful to not dump the parts out... Dump the parts onto napkin and wipe off. They will look super shiny and you will be amazed. You can see the machining marks in the pilots when it's done. Put back together and done.
Also, regarding carb cleaning I use this method and it's the best i've found.. take 2 empty pill bottles and fill one of them with works bathroom cleaner. Pull out all brass in the carbs and put in the bottle with the cleaner. you can then clean carb body with cleaner or soak and check passages.
You'll see white frothing from the works... It eats the crap out of varnish. After 5-10 minutes i slowly dump the works from 1 pill bottle to another careful to not dump the parts out... Dump the parts onto napkin and wipe off. They will look super shiny and you will be amazed. You can see the machining marks in the pilots when it's done. Put back together and done.
Both plugs were the same color when I took them out and looked a though I just put them in, white. Today when I started it only one side was hot, the other just warm. Checked spark on the warm side and it appeared good. I'll do a compression test tomorrow when I have access to a compression tester. I did hold my thumb over the hole and pulled it over and it blew it off right away. I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and crank seal rpms stayed the same. I put high temp gasket sealer around the exhaust flange from the y-pipe to the muffler and from the muffler to the can to make sure it was air tight. If I hold put my hand on top of the air box it kills the engine.