Clutch Removal... free phazer

S

speedy1

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Joined
Nov 18, 2010
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8
Location
Minnesota
Guys... I got a free (non running) phazer and traded a weight bench for another. Now trying to make one good sled out of two.

I need to pull the clutches on the engines and split the cases to see if I have enough good parts to make a running engine.

I would rather not spend the money on a puller due to the nature of this project and also because I may not have enough good parts to make a running engine between the two afterward.

I made a puller for my polaris ATV out of a grade 8 bolt that fit the clutch threads and another smaller diameter piece of grade 8 bolt (hex head cut off and cut to length) used as a push rod between the larger bolt and the crank and it worked very well.

Would this same setup work for my phazer clutches?

Thanks in advance!
 
If ya can't afford a puller ($25) you won't be able to afford to put an engine back together.

For what ya got into them now you will make money no matter what you decide to do with them even if you buy a puller.

Buy a puller.

opsled
 
speedy1 said:
Guys... I got a free (non running) phazer and traded a weight bench for another. Now trying to make one good sled out of two.

I need to pull the clutches on the engines and split the cases to see if I have enough good parts to make a running engine.

I would rather not spend the money on a puller due to the nature of this project and also because I may not have enough good parts to make a running engine between the two afterward.

I made a puller for my polaris ATV out of a grade 8 bolt that fit the clutch threads and another smaller diameter piece of grade 8 bolt (hex head cut off and cut to length) used as a push rod between the larger bolt and the crank and it worked very well.

Would this same setup work for my phazer clutches?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


I can understand not wanting to throw good money after bad and I agree in theory your suggestion should work but I don't think your Polaris set up will work on the Phazer. Point being you'll have to make another to fit the Phazer.

On the flip side I've tried to go the cheap route and "make my own" with a number of projects and I usually end up spending more time and $$ in the long run with a few exceptions.

In this case you'd only have a couple bucks in bolts and your time. Seems worth it to me as long as you don't bugger up the end of the crank.
 
I can afford the puller, but I could be buying the gasket set with that money : ) I have heard that the non-yamaha brand pullers are soft and a waste of money. They have to be the hardened, made in USA types or they act like butter when you run them in... bend, twist, smoosh... etc.

So it's $40. I guess I was just wondering if the couple bolts and time thing was worth the effort as it was on my polaris or if it is a different story on the yamaha sleds. It cost me less than $3 and worked like a charm. But... polaris pullers used to be a 2-piece design so I wasn't moving into uncharted waters with that application.

I just thought of something... I think one of the cranks is bad (pretty obviously rusty)... so I could try this idea on that one without really risking much. I might damage the crank or clutch, but I have another one. Worth a shot I guess ;)

Thanks for the advice either way guys. I appreciate it.

-Wes
 
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opsled,
true. I am trying to make a runner sled for my stepson. Something he can have fun with, but that I don't have to worry about (being stolen, getting pounded on, etc). I could sell some of the parts off of the donor sled and make up the cost, but I was hoping to save it for spares. Good idea though. I might advertise some uneeded parts and see what happens.

-Wes
 
Thread pitch and size

TopGunnSrx said:
I sent you a pm with all the specs on a yamaha clutch puller. That should help you out and give you an idea on whats up with it.
Click to expand...
I'm trying to remove a stuborn clutch from my 1988 exciter ,can anyone provide me with the correct thread -size and pitch for outer clutch threads as I have busted my clutch puller off inside the crank end and want to try hydraulic means to pop off my clutch , I cant seem to find the correct bolt threads to match , Is this a special Yami bolt or can I go to a hardware store and find a metric to work ?? PLEASE HELP !!!!
 
If you are gonna pull the engines anyways, you can try just using a bolt and grease, fill the hole with grease so the bolt has some resistance when starting to thread it in, use a little teflon tape on the threads for an extra good seal, if you have enough threads on the bolt it should pop without even needing to touch the inside of the crank, hydraulic pressure should be enough.

speedy1 said:
Guys... I got a free (non running) phazer and traded a weight bench for another. Now trying to make one good sled out of two.

I need to pull the clutches on the engines and split the cases to see if I have enough good parts to make a running engine.

I would rather not spend the money on a puller due to the nature of this project and also because I may not have enough good parts to make a running engine between the two afterward.

I made a puller for my polaris ATV out of a grade 8 bolt that fit the clutch threads and another smaller diameter piece of grade 8 bolt (hex head cut off and cut to length) used as a push rod between the larger bolt and the crank and it worked very well.

Would this same setup work for my phazer clutches?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 
Ive used a non yamaha puller bought from royal distributing up here north of the border, I dont know who makes them but Ive used mine on my vmax 600, 86' phazer, and a 99 vmax 700 and its worked great no bending or breaking.

The main thing is to put grease on the threads and on the very tip of the puller, this stops the end of the puller from binding on the crank which is what causes the puller to twist and break.
 
I've been using a modified yamaha puller for years. Made it longer at the tip to fit something or other. She's still giving stuck clutches hell! The threads in the comet on my XLV stripped out so I ran an M22x1.5 tap into the end and now have to use a big metric bolt and water or grease to hydraulic it off.
 
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