MikeSr
New member
I have the pipes off of my SRX 700 for other maintenance, so am wondering what the procedure is for setting the power valves with pipes off. I read the tech section didn't see anything there for setting them with pipes off. thanks.
So don't do it ,,, set valves using the valve housing ,, at 2.5mm..... as per tech page.....
I think he means how do you jump the servo to open it. I am wondering the same thing for a 98 srx.
Well you don't want to do it with the pipes off, as you need to run the engine,,, Idle down to 900rpm and mark servo and housing.... turn engine off and adjust from that mark ......
there is a connector to do that ,, but best way is to idle down and mark........... takes 15 secs to do so... and mark it........
MikeSr said:
Search for "stumpped (sic) on wiring for servo test plug" as there is a pic of the location of the test plug on my "01.
Apply 12 volts to the red and black wires to actuate the servo (white/three way hardshell connector with a dummy plug). Reference mark the servo wheel to the housing in case the wheel moves during adjustment. You can turn it back by hand to the marks or re-apply the 12vDC.
Not sure if the "idle to 900 rpm" pre-condition is in the service manual but applying 12-9 volts to the test plug to open the valves is.
The "tester" mentioned in the manual is just a fused 9 volt power supply with a matting three way hardshell connector. I made my own with the proper fitting pin terminals, two wires (one fused) and two alligator clips to attach to the power source/battery.
I have the pipes off every year to service the chaincase and also adjust the valves while they're off. I like to have as much done as I can before tugging the rope.
Now, we could again discuss the difference between using the prescribed adjustment method in the manual vs. adjusting the valves flush to the port contour... but IMO there isn't much difference.
The primary goal is to ensure the servo opens the valves before the valves hit thier open stops. If not, you'll end up with tension on the cables resulting in pull-throughs.
MikeSr
New member
Not to sound stupid but...
I never tackled this before, so I hope this doesn't sound stupid, but is that how they are to be set by hand....flush to the port contour?
I never tackled this before, so I hope this doesn't sound stupid, but is that how they are to be set by hand....flush to the port contour?
MikeSr said:
The shop manual has you check for slack at the PV cable housing (loosen the two cable end housing screws and adjust the cable for a 2.5mm clearance between the cable housing and PV housing). This is a safe spec to ensure cable free play but may not place the valve flush with the port contour.
To ensure the valve is flush with the port you'll have to remove the short exhaust dump tubes so you can feel the valves unless you have really long fingers. In this case you'd be a movie star and could afford to have someone else do it.
Actuate the servo than adjust each cable so that each coorisponding valve is flush with the port contour. You should be able to push the valve with your finger further up after your adjustment. The amount you can push the valve past flush is the slack required to avoid tension on the cable when the servo opens the valve.
I didn't feel much difference between adjusting the valve flush to the port vs. blindly adjusting to 2.5mm per the shop manual. One would think having the valve slightly below flush would restrict exhaust flow during WOT but I don' know that anyone has dyno'd the difference.
IMO - you could call it blueprinting your PV adjustment.
PM me if you'd like to discuss over the phone when you get ready to tackle.
MikeSr
New member
It is becoming clearer
Thanks for the info. It is becoming clearer to me now. I will take a stab at it tonight.
Thanks for the info. It is becoming clearer to me now. I will take a stab at it tonight.