powervalves

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BRAAAPPP420

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Feb 16, 2010
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Age
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Location
new york
me and my dad were taking off the center power valve on my 02 viper snapped all 4 of the allen heads so now were trying to drill them out...what a awesome thing to do to start the day off. anyone have a cylinder for sale? lol
 

your kidding ..right!!! All 4 of them....how much did you tighten them and hope you never used red loctite to do it.Could be a challenge to drill them out straight and re-tap...glad it is not me....
 
this was the first time we cleaned them because we bought the sled last year. and i learned from this website this summer that you have to clean them yearly. so i started by taking the clutch side cylinder power valve apart..no problems at all no penetrating oil needed on it so i cleaned that put it back together moved onto the the center tried to break them lose didnt budge so i sprayed them with pb to let them soak. moved on to the stator side..broke 3 of them lose and then sprayed the last one with pb to let it soak..so i let them soak for at least 3 days in between days spraying them little by little and then last night i started on the stator side to get the last allen out..broke lose no problem there. moved onto the center put just enough pressire to snap the head of. then same with the rest of them there was no use they just snapped.
 
I don't know if you are up to the task of removing the cylinder but. What needs to happen now is the cylinder should be removed and sent out to a machinist who can drill and tap each broken stud. No need to replace the cylinder. These bolts hold down a simple - no need to torque power valve bracket. The Japanese technicians always laugh at us American's for overtightened every bolt on every type machine. Good luck.
 
Is there ant part of bolt left after the housing is removed? If so tap end of left over bolt lightly with hammer,, then use needle nose vice grips to try to loosen.....
 
If you remove the cylinder and send it to me, i will mount it in my milling machine at the correct angle, drillout the broken screws and retap the holes. If they are booged up so bad that I cannot retap them, i will install helicoil inserts. Free of charge, just need to get me the cylinder and pay for the return shipping. Check the other cylinders as well, if another one needs to be repaired, include it also. Send me a PM and I will send you my address and phone number. I will take me about 4 days after I get the cylinder to perform the repairs.
 
rx1jim said:
If you remove the cylinder and send it to me, i will mount it in my milling machine at the correct angle, drillout the broken screws and retap the holes. If they are booged up so bad that I cannot retap them, i will install helicoil inserts. Free of charge, just need to get me the cylinder and pay for the return shipping. Check the other cylinders as well, if another one needs to be repaired, include it also. Send me a PM and I will send you my address and phone number. I will take me about 4 days after I get the cylinder to perform the repairs.
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now thats awesome!!!
 
Jim - Unbelievable offer to a fellow member. Very nice. You asked how to remove a broken bolt with a welder. My guess would be to weld another bolt to the broken stud.
 
Send me the cylinder with the power valve cap which bolts on to the cylinder as soon as you can. I will be going on a week long business trip from 11/29 to 12/3. If I have the cylinder by 12/5, I can repair it and send it to you by 12/8. Don't wait till the snow flies.
 
Just a side note about this. Last year when I got my new to me 2002 Viper with only 1100 miles onit, I too read that the power valves need to be cleaned. After pretty much the same deal of spraying and waiting, I ended up breaking 1 on each of 2 cylinders and 3 on the clutch side. We were able to weld nuts on a couple of them and back them out, but trying extract the broken bolts was a loosing battle. Ended up breaking off the corners of the cylinder at the bottom of the power valve housing. I was able to use an industrial epoxy for last winter and things went well, but over the summer, I removed all three cylinders, sent them to my machine shop and had all of the holes drilled and helicoiled. He also welded up and smoothed the corners where they broke and you can't even tell it happened.

While it was apart, I also re-ringed it. It only has 2300 miles on it now, but is all fresh and ready to go. Lack of removing and cleaning the power valves was the culprit. That will never happen again as long as I own the sled.

I have several factory allen head bolts that I would mail to you if you need them too. Let me know, free is better then $1 a piece.

Dave
 
You can remove just about any broken off bolt or screw with a welder as long as it is broken of flush or just slightly below flush. The way i do it is to weld a flat washer about the same size as the broken off bolt the washer is easier to weld on then a nut. After i weld the washer on i will then weld another washer or nut on top of that to make sure i have something to grab on to. The key is to tap the top of the washer or nut with a hammer then don't try to just screw it out but work it back and forth gently and take it slowly turning it just a little futher each time. I've removed hundreds of broken of bolts and studs this way. I only drill them as a last resort.
 
I am a mechanic by trade and snap-on makes a very good extractor kit. Works for me everytime. It is the fluted type so it does not expand and put more pressure on the bolt threads. Also comes with little bushings so drill bit goes right through the center.
 
^^ excellent method and description.
You can also drill a small hole down the middle of the broken bolt when doing iowaviper's welding method.
It seems to help loosen the threads abit.
 
rx1jim said:
How the heck would you use a TIG welder to remove the broken screws??
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u just weld on the broken bolt and then u got something to grip on it ...they should come off with the heat added
 
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