Want to Stud

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Scherbers4

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Nov 17, 2010
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Minnesota
Just took my sled out for the first time, and it needs more grip. It already has a 1.25 ripsaw track. I am wordering if it will cause any issues if I stud, and I could not find any charts to see what size studs I need for my track. Thanks for the help.
 

Do a search on this. Enough reading to last you till the real snow does fly. As a general rule you need to change to 8 tooth drivers to stud any track larger than 1inch. CCC
 
You can not safely run a 1.25" studded track on your Viper. You will need to use 8 tooth track drivers to gain the needed clearance. Or drop down to a 1" lug track with 1.075" studs and you will be fine.
 
I have a 1.25 rip saw with 144 1.325 woodys mega bites with stock drivers and wish I had put 1.375 in it. There is always a way! I had to snip just the very tips off the lugs that where aligned with the protectors. I also installed small bolts with lock nuts where the rivets would go to hold the front heat exchange protectors on. Not a real easy task tightening the bolts up but I love the traction like I said I with I would had went a little bigger with the studs and was nervous with what people where posting.
 
timd222002 said:
I have a 1.25 rip saw with 144 1.325 woodys mega bites with stock drivers and wish I had put 1.375 in it. There is always a way! I had to snip just the very tips off the lugs that where aligned with the protectors. I also installed small bolts with lock nuts where the rivets would go to hold the front heat exchange protectors on. Not a real easy task tightening the bolts up but I love the traction like I said I with I would had went a little bigger with the studs and was nervous with what people where posting.
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I literally just came in from the garage, just got done installing 144 1.325" megabites with double diggers down the center of my ripsaw on my 01' SRX. I have approxamately 1/2" clearance between the front exchanger and the tips of the studs. I havent run it yet due to not having any protecters on the exchanger. I'm scared to death because of all the posts saying how it can't be done...it cant be done...it cant be done. Tim is the second person to say IT CAN BE DONE, and I'm determined to be the third person.
 
i would have to guess track floating over track drive over bumps and jumps or balooning out from cintrificall force is what causes it to hit the front exchanger, no load it may clear
 
i know i would never feel good about 1/2" clearance do you know how much the track stretchs ? especially the way i ride i wouldnt trust it go down to 8 tooth drivers....

id rather be safe than sorry and stuck...

me personally im going to a 1" lug and 192 1.25 studs
 
timd222002 said:
I have a 1.25 rip saw with 144 1.325 woodys mega bites with stock drivers and wish I had put 1.375 in it. There is always a way! I had to snip just the very tips off the lugs that where aligned with the protectors. I also installed small bolts with lock nuts where the rivets would go to hold the front heat exchange protectors on. Not a real easy task tightening the bolts up but I love the traction like I said I with I would had went a little bigger with the studs and was nervous with what people where posting.
Click to expand...


Im running almost the same su with 8 tooth drivers and have dings in the heat exchangers front and back. I drive for the most part like a old lady going to church. Good luck!! Ive checked clearence with my drivers and not sure how you guys are doing it. CCC
 
I don't feel good about the 1/2" clearance, thats why I am constantly picking peoples brains on this subject. I am going to install 8 tooth drivers on my project because when you let off the throttle and get the brakes at 100mph thats when shit happens...and happens fast. I figure it is cheaper to do the proper swap before I take out an exchanger or a tunnel. Quick question for super1c...how do you get damage to the rear exchanger? It is at the very back of the tunnel....
 
winterfunguy said:
I don't feel good about the 1/2" clearance, thats why I am constantly picking peoples brains on this subject. I am going to install 8 tooth drivers on my project because when you let off the throttle and get the brakes at 100mph thats when shit happens...and happens fast. I figure it is cheaper to do the proper swap before I take out an exchanger or a tunnel. Quick question for super1c...how do you get damage to the rear exchanger? It is at the very back of the tunnel....
Click to expand...


With the standard .920" track and 1.075" Woodys I had some light nicking of the rear HX while running without the rear HX protectors. I installed the rear HX protectors which eliminated any contact until I put in the 1" Aggressor with the same size studs. I painted the rear HX to find out if the nicks I saw were from previously or new. Come to find out I was getting slight contact until I tightened the track. It's still looser than spec and tighter than I usually like to run but no more contact.

Hope it helps.
 
snomofo said:
With the standard .920" track and 1.075" Woodys I had some light nicking of the rear HX while running without the rear HX protectors. I installed the rear HX protectors which eliminated any contact until I put in the 1" Aggressor with the same size studs. I painted the rear HX to find out if the nicks I saw were from previously or new. Come to find out I was getting slight contact until I tightened the track. It's still looser than spec and tighter than I usually like to run but no more contact.

Hope it helps.
Click to expand...


I run them tight also but the nicks are their. You must run rear protectors too. Your track does make contact there also. Doesnt seem like it would but it does. CCC
 
Winterfunguy my viper has the hauck tripple pipes with the rear heat exchanger and I will tell I drive that sled like I stole it. Im 28 and do not like being last and with the front and rear protectors I do not have any marks on the heat exchangers. you will want to install the front with bolts and lock nuts definetly since the track will loosen the rivets if the track does contact the protectors but thats what there there for. Think about it the 1.325 studs only stick out .075" and the protectors are about an 1" thick. You will be fine
 
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