00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok, I need some help ID'ing some parts and finding out what is stock and whats not. Most of thes parts are from the clutch and final drive. I bought this sled used and I'm cleaning and rebuilding it.
First the clutch : I know he installed a heelclicker system now I just need to ID what he has done. I'm new to all this so any help is appreciated. Also the clutch system worked great it never over reved or boged I just want to clean and inspect.
-First is the primary spring it is red W/ no additional markings. I would like to know if this is a yamie part or aftermarket. It needs replacment as it is showing alot of wear.
-Next is the heelclicker system on the out side he has 8 washers on all 3. I know if you add or take off any washers this changes something. What does this change.
-Next the inside of the hellclicker has 2 bolts the one closest to the piviot point has 1 washer and the furthest away has no washer. This as well I would like to know what this changes.
First the clutch : I know he installed a heelclicker system now I just need to ID what he has done. I'm new to all this so any help is appreciated. Also the clutch system worked great it never over reved or boged I just want to clean and inspect.
-First is the primary spring it is red W/ no additional markings. I would like to know if this is a yamie part or aftermarket. It needs replacment as it is showing alot of wear.
![003-11.jpg](http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll65/wherryb/003-11.jpg)
-Next is the heelclicker system on the out side he has 8 washers on all 3. I know if you add or take off any washers this changes something. What does this change.
![002-12.jpg](http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll65/wherryb/002-12.jpg)
-Next the inside of the hellclicker has 2 bolts the one closest to the piviot point has 1 washer and the furthest away has no washer. This as well I would like to know what this changes.
![002-12.jpg](http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll65/wherryb/002-12.jpg)
00SRXWHERRY
New member
-Ok, as far as the secondary goes My local motorsports store recomened he clean an inspect it, so he has it right now. I know it has a bender helix and we both couldn't ID wich one it was so once he gets it apart he is going to see if there is a marking on the insde to ID it. Also it has a white spring. Is ther anything else I should ask to see how the seconday is tuned?
00SRXWHERRY
New member
And finially the gearing and final drive
-The jackshaft gear (the smaller one) has 23 teeth is that stock
-The final drive gear (the bigger one) has 38 teeth is that stock
-And for the final question the final drive I know stock is 8in but in in measuring it it is 7in. They have 9 teeth
Thank you all for your help.
-The jackshaft gear (the smaller one) has 23 teeth is that stock
-The final drive gear (the bigger one) has 38 teeth is that stock
-And for the final question the final drive I know stock is 8in but in in measuring it it is 7in. They have 9 teeth
![004-10.jpg](http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll65/wherryb/004-10.jpg)
Thank you all for your help.
Answers:
Question 1: that is a heel clicker "red spring"
2: the whole concept of adding washers or screws to these "adjustable"
weights is to fine tune the primary clutch to the optimum engagement, mid shift out, and full shift out RPM and belt sqeeze[ there are volumes writen on tuning clutches, suggest you get Aaens clutch tuning book for knowledge]
3: adding or subtracting weight in the middle or tip of the weight will lower or raise RPM and shift rate in the mid to full shift out of the clutches
4: you should ensure that white secondary spring is indexed where it was to start with...more or less spring wrap will have an effect on your rpm and upshift/backshift rate of the clutches.
5: 23/38 is a final ratio of 1.65:1 and I believe is stock gearing for a 2000 SRX
6: 9 tooth drivers is stock[works out to approx 7" diameter]
Question 1: that is a heel clicker "red spring"
2: the whole concept of adding washers or screws to these "adjustable"
weights is to fine tune the primary clutch to the optimum engagement, mid shift out, and full shift out RPM and belt sqeeze[ there are volumes writen on tuning clutches, suggest you get Aaens clutch tuning book for knowledge]
3: adding or subtracting weight in the middle or tip of the weight will lower or raise RPM and shift rate in the mid to full shift out of the clutches
4: you should ensure that white secondary spring is indexed where it was to start with...more or less spring wrap will have an effect on your rpm and upshift/backshift rate of the clutches.
5: 23/38 is a final ratio of 1.65:1 and I believe is stock gearing for a 2000 SRX
6: 9 tooth drivers is stock[works out to approx 7" diameter]
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Thank you much sideshowBob.
-I will be googling for that Aaens tuning book.
-I did notice that the spring was on the 0 hole so I'll make sure it is in the same spot when I get it back.
-After cleaning the primary I noticed that the bushing on the cover that the spider rides in was tore up, I'm repalcing that. Also while looking at the primary I noticed cracks in the outter sleve down by the shaft. So I took it up to Lakes to have them take a look at it. He said they were heat cracks. He recommended replacing that sleave. Has anyone had this issur W/ Heat cracks?
-I will be googling for that Aaens tuning book.
-I did notice that the spring was on the 0 hole so I'll make sure it is in the same spot when I get it back.
-After cleaning the primary I noticed that the bushing on the cover that the spider rides in was tore up, I'm repalcing that. Also while looking at the primary I noticed cracks in the outter sleve down by the shaft. So I took it up to Lakes to have them take a look at it. He said they were heat cracks. He recommended replacing that sleave. Has anyone had this issur W/ Heat cracks?
00SRXWHERRY said:Thank you much sideshowBob.
-I will be googling for that Aaens tuning book.
-I did notice that the spring was on the 0 hole so I'll make sure it is in the same spot when I get it back.
-After cleaning the primary I noticed that the bushing on the cover that the spider rides in was tore up, I'm repalcing that. Also while looking at the primary I noticed cracks in the outter sleve down by the shaft. So I took it up to Lakes to have them take a look at it. He said they were heat cracks. He recommended replacing that sleave. Has anyone had this issur W/ Heat cracks?
The heat cracks are not uncommon on the Yamaha primaries...you must replace them when this happens! If you need a cover as well it maybe time for a completely new clutch. If you are just replacing components you may want to consider a 911 clutch cover from thunder products or a Bender clutch cover...both far superior to the stock one!
JM.02c
Bob
mopar1rules
Active member
00SRXWHERRY
New member
-Thank you for the link. I started reading this evening so far so good.
-As far as the primary goes I all ready ended up ordering a new sheave. 230 bucks more then I wanted to spend. The bushing In the cover I'm just repacing it was 6 bucks. The cover itself was just fine. Thanks again for all the help.
-As far as the primary goes I all ready ended up ordering a new sheave. 230 bucks more then I wanted to spend. The bushing In the cover I'm just repacing it was 6 bucks. The cover itself was just fine. Thanks again for all the help.