bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Stock weights are 8CH with 13.9 in both holes.Has stock G-P-G primary spring.Stock Helix is 45 at 60 wrap with Green spring.
Since it is geared 22/40 and has 1.5 paddle track,would it not make sence to increase the wrap to maybe 70 or 80.Wouldn't the belt be slipping some at 60?? Would he benifit from a Helix change..like a 47 straight or a 51/43 Helix??
He was mentioning to me to try the 51/43 helix from what he was reading on here.If we do change the helix,do we still keep the Green spring and is that
G-P-G primary spring hindering him.Since I have the secondary on the bench to add an extra washer to the back of the secondary sheave to get belt to climb a little higher,now is the time to try something.
I noticed the sheaves look a little different to me,couldn't figure it out..and then it came to me.The windage plates and bolts are missing from both sheaves,just the fins showing.Should he get some of these plates back on again.I had spare ones but wrecked them by using them for something else.
Just a few opinions would help here also..thanks..
I think he said he is over reving a tad also with his setup now.
Since it is geared 22/40 and has 1.5 paddle track,would it not make sence to increase the wrap to maybe 70 or 80.Wouldn't the belt be slipping some at 60?? Would he benifit from a Helix change..like a 47 straight or a 51/43 Helix??
He was mentioning to me to try the 51/43 helix from what he was reading on here.If we do change the helix,do we still keep the Green spring and is that
G-P-G primary spring hindering him.Since I have the secondary on the bench to add an extra washer to the back of the secondary sheave to get belt to climb a little higher,now is the time to try something.
I noticed the sheaves look a little different to me,couldn't figure it out..and then it came to me.The windage plates and bolts are missing from both sheaves,just the fins showing.Should he get some of these plates back on again.I had spare ones but wrecked them by using them for something else.
Just a few opinions would help here also..thanks..
I think he said he is over reving a tad also with his setup now.
definately need to wrap that sec. up to 80 * with that paddle track!
bluewho
Active member
Running at 60 helps the belt drop into the secondary faster and loads the moter harder.Going up to 80 lets some drag off the moter and keeps the revs up when punched hard out of a corner or with better hookup with a bigger lug track or improved traction.
When you look at belt slipping it is in most cases the priamary loosing its grip on the belt and not the secondary unless the secondary has a OVER tightened spring or running a helix that the moter cannot pull as well as the old setup.
When you look at belt slipping it is in most cases the priamary loosing its grip on the belt and not the secondary unless the secondary has a OVER tightened spring or running a helix that the moter cannot pull as well as the old setup.
Tune with the primary 1st allways 100% of the time.
after you get rpm,s real close play with the secondary after to see if you can get better performance.
after you get rpm,s real close play with the secondary after to see if you can get better performance.
bluewho
Active member
So if the revs are a little high yes try the 47 and dont wory about the wind plates you would never be able to tell the differance unless you are trying for maybie a mph on top.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I think he said it revs up to 8900 and drops back to 8700 on hard pack.That motor is supposed be reving only to 8300 at wot..so don't know.I will ride it myself one day on a good surface to see for myself first
I've found a few dyno graphs of the 700 and to me they appear to make peak hp at 8500 rpm (looks like the one that was dynoed had reed spacers and maybe a bored silencer). Maybe this isn't right but I'd like to get mine clutched to 8400-8600rpm just to take advantage of the peak power. Mind you I was running 8900 rpm last year so I was down a few hp just because of that.