thunder66
New member
Why is it that the M10 takes away top speed?
SWEDE
New member
The taller stance and a little steeper approach angle in the front.Honestly it'll only slow ya down 5-10 mph if setup right, not really that big of a deal unless your into all out racing.
mdbauer62
Member
I didn't notice much speed/power loss with the M10, buth then my sled is only a stock Viper....but the improved ride made any tradeoff well worth it !!!!
honvfr
New member
M-10 Speed
i HAVE A M-10 SUSPENSION ON MY 2001 SRX AND NEVER NOTICED ANY DROP IN SPEED, i HAVE BEEN RUNNING M-10'S FOR OVER 15 YEARS AND BELIEVE ITS THE ONLY WAY TO GO IF YOU WANT THE BEST RIDE. MY M-10 IS 136 AND I MOVED THE SKID BACK 2.75 INCHES BACK IN CHASSIS TO REDUCE APPROACH ANGLE AND WENT WITH 8 INCH REAR WHEELS. I USE ANTI RATCHET DRIVERS AND RUN THE TRACK LOOSE. i CAN TURN THE TRACK WITH 1 FINGER!! THE 835 BIG BORE DOES NOT HURT IF YOU WANT BIG POWER AND SPEED. i HAVE A LOT OF WORK DONE TO THIS MACHINE AND IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ON SET UPS FROM CHASSIS TO ENGINE TO CLUTCHING TO MAKEING IT 40 LBS. LIGHTER THAN STOCK JUST ASK ME. JIM
i HAVE A M-10 SUSPENSION ON MY 2001 SRX AND NEVER NOTICED ANY DROP IN SPEED, i HAVE BEEN RUNNING M-10'S FOR OVER 15 YEARS AND BELIEVE ITS THE ONLY WAY TO GO IF YOU WANT THE BEST RIDE. MY M-10 IS 136 AND I MOVED THE SKID BACK 2.75 INCHES BACK IN CHASSIS TO REDUCE APPROACH ANGLE AND WENT WITH 8 INCH REAR WHEELS. I USE ANTI RATCHET DRIVERS AND RUN THE TRACK LOOSE. i CAN TURN THE TRACK WITH 1 FINGER!! THE 835 BIG BORE DOES NOT HURT IF YOU WANT BIG POWER AND SPEED. i HAVE A LOT OF WORK DONE TO THIS MACHINE AND IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ON SET UPS FROM CHASSIS TO ENGINE TO CLUTCHING TO MAKEING IT 40 LBS. LIGHTER THAN STOCK JUST ASK ME. JIM
the 8in wheels help alot but is a little pricy to update with axle and two wheels, your over 200$. I think alot of the speed loss people see is in the issues with track tension. When the sled is in the air, with an m10, the track will hang down a couple inches. This is not the norm for other skids so I think alot of people overtighten the track.
Correct track tensioning adjustment for any skid for top speed is as follows.
1 tighten track up in the gararge to what you believe to be close
2 go to lake, field etc where you can get the sled to hook up as good as it is ever going to.
3 Loosen track until the track ratchets, then tighten 1 turn till it stops.
4 Now do roll to stops on flat hard surface to see if side to side is correct.
5 Now do speed runs for top speed, go over the same place.
6 tighten track untill you see speed fall
7 then back off 1 turn.
8 You can also do top speed side to side adjustments just in case your skid is not tight, square and on plain
The reason this works is because a loose track does not always mean fast. Tracks ballon and can rub on tunnel or pile up in front of rails both causing drag. Tracks too tight bend harder around the drivers and wheels. They drag on the front of the rails.
When the track is adjusted in the air for side to side it does not compensate for loose parts, twisted parts and or, limiter straps that are not tightened equally or as on an m10, limiters that are mounted off center. These things can let one rail drop below the other, changing the distance around one side compared to the other.
Have fun, that m10 sure rides good.
I also have a couple for sale Both need mount kits
Correct track tensioning adjustment for any skid for top speed is as follows.
1 tighten track up in the gararge to what you believe to be close
2 go to lake, field etc where you can get the sled to hook up as good as it is ever going to.
3 Loosen track until the track ratchets, then tighten 1 turn till it stops.
4 Now do roll to stops on flat hard surface to see if side to side is correct.
5 Now do speed runs for top speed, go over the same place.
6 tighten track untill you see speed fall
7 then back off 1 turn.
8 You can also do top speed side to side adjustments just in case your skid is not tight, square and on plain
The reason this works is because a loose track does not always mean fast. Tracks ballon and can rub on tunnel or pile up in front of rails both causing drag. Tracks too tight bend harder around the drivers and wheels. They drag on the front of the rails.
When the track is adjusted in the air for side to side it does not compensate for loose parts, twisted parts and or, limiter straps that are not tightened equally or as on an m10, limiters that are mounted off center. These things can let one rail drop below the other, changing the distance around one side compared to the other.
Have fun, that m10 sure rides good.
I also have a couple for sale Both need mount kits
thunder66
New member
Thanks very much for your reply's guys! I am not all about top speed but I do make it out on to the lake with my buddies once in a while and it is fun to see triple digits for a few seconds. My real goal is to do what I think a lot of others have done and that is to make my SRX into a bit of a hybrid that will soak up bumps a lot better without having to give up that beautiful sounding/performing triple under the hood!