does anyone with a boivin in an srx run studs? I am wondering if you can run a 1.175" with the added travel or if its better to stick to a 1.075"
Dun that
Plenty in a Viper...same chasis so same results. You'll be fine with the 1.175's. Biggest issue however is how loose you can get away with having the track. Unless you are really careful and keep it tighter than it needs to be with the Boivin (thus defeating one of the greatest things about the skid in my opinion) you'll risk hitting the tunnel under the gas tank. The track wants to balloon under hard braking and it tears up the tunnel under the gas tank. I found the that the crappy OEM style "angle" tunnel protectors are not adequate. If you really want to protect the tunnel properly get 1"X1" X1/8" wall square aluminum tubing and rivet that in place for the tunnel protectors. This way you can still run the proper (loose) track tension and not worry about tunnel damage.
Madmatt
Plenty in a Viper...same chasis so same results. You'll be fine with the 1.175's. Biggest issue however is how loose you can get away with having the track. Unless you are really careful and keep it tighter than it needs to be with the Boivin (thus defeating one of the greatest things about the skid in my opinion) you'll risk hitting the tunnel under the gas tank. The track wants to balloon under hard braking and it tears up the tunnel under the gas tank. I found the that the crappy OEM style "angle" tunnel protectors are not adequate. If you really want to protect the tunnel properly get 1"X1" X1/8" wall square aluminum tubing and rivet that in place for the tunnel protectors. This way you can still run the proper (loose) track tension and not worry about tunnel damage.
Madmatt
So with the 1.175 studs and the increased size of protectors you have no issue with hitting the tunnel? Do you think running it that loose effects topend?
Correct
I believe that with the tunnel protectors I'm telling you to use you will have no issues with hitting the tunnel. If you leave the stock ones in there I believe that your track will wear where it contacts the 1/4" wide protectors and eventually you will have tunnel damage.....and it won't take long. The skid design in general will cause you to loose top end as compared to a pro-action but only by 5-8 mph. Certainly worth it for a skid that actually rides reasonably well. No, I don't believe that proper track tension will hurt top end. You must be using a 1" track? I've used 1 1/4" track with 1.375 megabites before with the tunnel protection I'm telling you to use and I've had little to no issues. You'll be fine.....just do the tunnel protection.
Madmatt
I believe that with the tunnel protectors I'm telling you to use you will have no issues with hitting the tunnel. If you leave the stock ones in there I believe that your track will wear where it contacts the 1/4" wide protectors and eventually you will have tunnel damage.....and it won't take long. The skid design in general will cause you to loose top end as compared to a pro-action but only by 5-8 mph. Certainly worth it for a skid that actually rides reasonably well. No, I don't believe that proper track tension will hurt top end. You must be using a 1" track? I've used 1 1/4" track with 1.375 megabites before with the tunnel protection I'm telling you to use and I've had little to no issues. You'll be fine.....just do the tunnel protection.
Madmatt
What is an alternative to the crappy looking black rear wheels?
Well
I had entensions made to go 136" with 8" wheels....here's couple of photos of two of my differernt sleds. If you don't want to go with a longer track your only options are going to be finding replacement plastic or billet in the same size for a direct replacement or if you want to go with bigger wheels get an axel conversion from Mountain Machines or some other company like that. You're right, the stock ones are ugly!
Madmatt
I had entensions made to go 136" with 8" wheels....here's couple of photos of two of my differernt sleds. If you don't want to go with a longer track your only options are going to be finding replacement plastic or billet in the same size for a direct replacement or if you want to go with bigger wheels get an axel conversion from Mountain Machines or some other company like that. You're right, the stock ones are ugly!
Madmatt
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TopGunnSrx
New member
I run my track with like 3" of sag lol I wont be putting studs in with the expert in. Buying hyfax is a thing of the past!
One other detail
When you install the square aluminum tubing for tunnel protectors make sure you run it ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT OF THE BULK HEAD. Part of the reason for the problem I'm talking about with the stock tunnel protection is that it doesn't go all the way to the front. I've see guys put holes through their bulkhead under their air box before.
Madmatt
When you install the square aluminum tubing for tunnel protectors make sure you run it ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT OF THE BULK HEAD. Part of the reason for the problem I'm talking about with the stock tunnel protection is that it doesn't go all the way to the front. I've see guys put holes through their bulkhead under their air box before.
Madmatt
Madmatt you are talking about running the new tunnel protectors about 6" longer than the oem ones? How did you fasten them further ahead at the point where the stockers end it looks like on an srx it isn't possible as there are a couple of panels there.. Also did you run a rear protector and do they make them for an srx?
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Yes
Yes...it would be about 6" longer. And yes, there are a couple of things you need to work around up there. The aluminum will need to be notched out, ground out or whatever to clear the two square parts of the tunnel/bulk head that stick down. You also need to notch out for the fuel pump mount and there may be a rivet or two that will hit off to the side of the aluminum. Just grind or notch out the aluminum and make it fit nice then rivet it all in from the top nice & tight. You do realize you need to remove the seat, gas tank and air box to do this?
Madmatt
Yes...it would be about 6" longer. And yes, there are a couple of things you need to work around up there. The aluminum will need to be notched out, ground out or whatever to clear the two square parts of the tunnel/bulk head that stick down. You also need to notch out for the fuel pump mount and there may be a rivet or two that will hit off to the side of the aluminum. Just grind or notch out the aluminum and make it fit nice then rivet it all in from the top nice & tight. You do realize you need to remove the seat, gas tank and air box to do this?
Madmatt
already done! Thanks Madmatt!
Great!
That aluminum tubing does a nice job doesn't it?
Madmatt
That aluminum tubing does a nice job doesn't it?
Madmatt
I am going to get it, I meant I had the tank and everything off! I am thinking though that I may just run the same length as stock because I am staying with a 1" track whereas I see you were running bigger tracks than that when you extended them..
You'll be sorry!
All the way to the front is key. I've seen guys tear the fuel pump mount bracket in half. If you don't believe me then ask Rich @ Rich Motorsports. I know he ruined a bulk head. If you've got the time to do it the wrong way, then you've got time to do it the right way. Spend the extra couple of minuted & do it right.
Madmatt
All the way to the front is key. I've seen guys tear the fuel pump mount bracket in half. If you don't believe me then ask Rich @ Rich Motorsports. I know he ruined a bulk head. If you've got the time to do it the wrong way, then you've got time to do it the right way. Spend the extra couple of minuted & do it right.
Madmatt