dtengel10
New member
The machine will not idle when warm. Starts easy 1-2 pulls then runs fine with choke on and will idle fine for 5-10 mins wih choke off. After riding a while it will not idle but will run fine feathering the throttle and seems to run fine on the trail untill stopping. This started mid-season so I dont believe it is an issue with the carbs from storage. Wouldn't the sled still idle (roughly I suppose) even if 1 of the carbs has issues? What else could be the problem (it just doesn't feel like a carb problem to me)?
Powervalves have been cleaned but not adjusted.
Powervalves have been cleaned but not adjusted.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
check if choke is not sticking or open a tad at idle when shut.Check carbs are in sync.Check your carb idle screw is turned enough.Is your jetting really on the rich side??
dtengel10
New member
Thanks Bluemonster1, I will check the choke for sticking. I assume the carb idle screw you refer to is the adjustment on top of the carb rack that increases throttle cable tension when turned in and increases rpm by doing so that. Jetting is stock and I don't believe it is runnung rich but I honestly don't know for certain. Would the power valves have anything to do with it? They were stuck with one cable pull through, I cleaned all and replaced the bad one but did not adjust. The servo does not move when utilizing 12v to the test connector but does actuate when 12v applied directly to the terminals on the motor.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
run your motor and then turn idle screw counterclockwise until rpm drops below 900 rpm.Watch the pulley on the servo motor..it should rotate counter clockwise..pulling PV's in open position.If you didn't adj. that 1 PV ..it may be further inward then needed.I adjusted my PV's using a 3mm method instead of 2.5mm.This gives it enough play so cable isn't pulling pv really hard against the spring.Of course if your PV are really dirty and sticky..that is another issue for concern..then remove and clean them up.
Idle screw is not the cable adjustment,it is the screw in the middle of rack towards the motor.It has a spring under it and has a slot on top for screwdriver.Make sure your throttle cable is not to tigh..this is where you turn the adjuster where cable pass's thru to the carb with a 10mm wrench.2 different beasts with 2 different outcomes.
Idle screw is not the cable adjustment,it is the screw in the middle of rack towards the motor.It has a spring under it and has a slot on top for screwdriver.Make sure your throttle cable is not to tigh..this is where you turn the adjuster where cable pass's thru to the carb with a 10mm wrench.2 different beasts with 2 different outcomes.
dtengel10
New member
Thanks Again, I did have the correct screw in mind for the idle I just described it very poorly. I'm going to go ahead and clean the carbs, I'm very comfortable doing this, they just look really dificult to access. I know there are posts on the simple way to renove the airbox but I'm not locating any posts with my search. can you direct me or explain the easy way to get the cables out of the way of the box?
dtengel10
New member
Ceaned The Carbs
Went ahead and cleaned the carbs. They looked spotless (prior to cleaning) and the bowls didn't have even have a hint of tarnish. I went through all 3 carbs with brake cleaner, 120 PSI air, and a strand of copper wire even though I couldn't see any obstructions. Well, now the beast runs better than it has in 3 or 4 years and idles perfectly smooth evan at very low RPM.
Went ahead and cleaned the carbs. They looked spotless (prior to cleaning) and the bowls didn't have even have a hint of tarnish. I went through all 3 carbs with brake cleaner, 120 PSI air, and a strand of copper wire even though I couldn't see any obstructions. Well, now the beast runs better than it has in 3 or 4 years and idles perfectly smooth evan at very low RPM.
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