SRX Issues

C

crazyrunningkid

New member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
27
Age
38
Location
Thunder Bay On Canada
Seem to be having more issues!!

Took my srx out for the first ride this year, ran great at first, then started having a problem with my lights flickering (tail and head light, gauges). And my tach seemed to be shorting out. After a little more into the ride, my lights stayed on, but my tach and fuel gauge would not work, but the back light on the tach was lit up (don't know if i fried the tach or not). Also, my temp light started flashing with a pattern (would flash 7 times, then it would stop after a little while would do it again. Also when i opened it up, I would get up to 100kmh and it would almost bog and I couldnt get going any faster.

Any Ideas out there guys??

Thanks
 

Sounds like your wire harness has rubbed thru under the motor. Do a search and you will find tons of info on it. Easy fix.
 
Depends on if the insulation is just wearing thru now, or if you have wire damage. Undo the harness at the hood, tie a piece of string to it, undo the holders in the belly pan and pull it out back by the carbs. Make repairs. Just pull the string to get the harness back under the engine and reassemble.
You will want to make the wires water tight so they dont get wet.
Heat shrink connectors/shrink tube. Also put some plastic wire loom over the harness and it wont wear anymore.
 
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great thanks for the info, do you know anything about the temp light flashing? just wondering if its a code, i was thinking powervalves but I had them all cleaned and adjusted when it was serviced for the season
 
When repairing the wires do not use the crimp-on butt connectors. Strip the wires back, slip on some heat shrink tubing, twist the wires together, solder the connection and use the heat shrink over the connection. Make sure the heat shrink is tight around the insulation for a water tight seal.
 
if harness is ok - check the stator. I lost the tach and I think the power valves on my 99. Went thru the whole procedure - pulled entire harness an re-routed it with no fix (there was a small rub, but was not affecting anything yet - thought this was it). Finally found out that the little clip that holds the sensor for the stator broke off and took out part of the stator. New stator - now good as new. Temp light was flashing a code, but I don't remember what it was. As far as the harness goes, I absolutely could not get the last clip removed under the motor. Ended up cutting the entire harness and re-routed completely. Like said above, use heat shrink tubing on all connectors. I also taped the entire harness and covered with plastic wire loom. Good luck !!!
 
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Ok, I pulled the wiring harness, turns out 2 wires were worn almost right through, only held on by 1 strand, cut and saudered harnessand shrinkwrapped, and re ran the harness. Fired the machine up and head and tail lights are on, not flickering. Tach back light is on, but it is not reding, neither is the fuel gauge. And now a new problem, my spedometer back light is not on, but indicator lights seem to be working. The temp light did the usual flash on start up and my hi beam indicator is working. Any ideas guys?
 
stein700sx said:
When repairing the wires do not use the crimp-on butt connectors. Strip the wires back, slip on some heat shrink tubing, twist the wires together, solder the connection and use the heat shrink over the connection. Make sure the heat shrink is tight around the insulation for a water tight seal.
Click to expand...


I cut and pasted the reply below from the SXR side. Not all shrink tube is created equal...

The black covering of the copper strands is oxidation from exposure to atmosphere. No need to cut it out just use some sand paper folded in half and pull the wire through the paper to get you back to bare copper then put some flux core solder and heat to it. The oxidation has no affect on performance of the wire since it's just a coating but as you found the flux can not penatrate it. Same principal as sweating copper pipe. You have to have clean surfaces for the solder to adhear and flow.

I'd also recommend double wall adheasive shrink tube rather than single wall. The double wall will make the joint waterproof where as the single wall non-adheasive will not. Heat the connection until the adheasive oozes out of the ends all the way around.

The single wall shrink tubing is better than tape but it is not waterproof. If single wall is the only thing on hand dap some silicone around the tube ends to seal.

You might find double wall at places like RS electronics or maybe Radioshack but I know you can find it at your local Ford/L/M dealer. The part numbers below also include solder type butt splices which makes for a nice clean connection without the worry of single strand poke through commonly found in twisted connections.

Motorcraft part #

WT-56814 for 22-18 AWG
WT-56815 for 16-14 AWG
WT-56816 for 12-10 AWG
 
Does anyone know the code when the temp light flashes 7 times. That was the issue I had previous, but since I redid the harness, it hasnt done it yet. Also with the tach gauge is there a chance i fried it, even though the back light is on?
 
7 flashes is a servo motor code. most times its caused by valves adjusted to tight, but if you got rubbed through wires that could cause it to . if you only checked and fixed the harness under the engine you should also check at the cdi like mentioned above and where the wires break out of the harness and go up to your handle bars both are also very common spots for rubbed through and broken wires.
 
you might want to check your relay switches. I had no tach, no lights, no brake light, came on here they told me to take them out and set them on my heat register in the house for a day and put them back in. And that fixed my problems. I think they are on the left side footwell, one was black, one was blue, I think... I cant remember
 
Yea, I keep the sled in my garage and it is heated, and my tach was working prior only it was grounding out, and the fuel gauge is still not working, but there is power to the tach as the back light is lit up and the spedometer has power to it, but no back light
 
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