skimau
New member
Hi guy's
Last year I buy a 01 srx and now I make my pre-season inspection and the track it's so loose. I would like to tight it but I don't have acces to the adjustement screw because the sled is mounting with 8'' rear wheel. Any people have a tricks to tight the track ???
Last year I buy a 01 srx and now I make my pre-season inspection and the track it's so loose. I would like to tight it but I don't have acces to the adjustement screw because the sled is mounting with 8'' rear wheel. Any people have a tricks to tight the track ???
thunder66
New member
The access to the adjusting nut is through the windows in the track... how does having the larger wheels get in the way?
go to tech page and read on how to adjust track, it is done from the rear of the sled through the track.
Sounds like you have an offset axle kit on your skid so the 8" rear wheels could be used.
These can be a real pain in the but because the track tension adjusters are relocated to the outside of the skid and face towards the front of the sled right behind the outside wheel. The adjusters can be very difficult to get to unless there are large openings in the new 8" idler wheel.
If this is your problem I would suggest you get your digrinder out and elongate one of the holes in each of the outside idlers that allows you adequate access to the adjusters. Then when you have to adjust your track you just rotate the wheel to the larger access hole and you're good to go.
I have 8" rear idlers on all my sleds, but I used Mountain Performance rail extensions that relocate the axle position for use with the stock axle and adjusters.
JM.02c
Bob
These can be a real pain in the but because the track tension adjusters are relocated to the outside of the skid and face towards the front of the sled right behind the outside wheel. The adjusters can be very difficult to get to unless there are large openings in the new 8" idler wheel.
If this is your problem I would suggest you get your digrinder out and elongate one of the holes in each of the outside idlers that allows you adequate access to the adjusters. Then when you have to adjust your track you just rotate the wheel to the larger access hole and you're good to go.
I have 8" rear idlers on all my sleds, but I used Mountain Performance rail extensions that relocate the axle position for use with the stock axle and adjusters.
JM.02c
Bob
skimau
New member
Ok but The I look to the thread on the tech page my problem it's my transfer rods.
Can I just remove it to adjust my track and I replace it after the adjustement ...or it the transfer rods change my track tension ?
Can I just remove it to adjust my track and I replace it after the adjustement ...or it the transfer rods change my track tension ?
thunder66
New member
sideshowBob said:
Just learned something new!
Can you post pictures of the problem?
You should be able to remove and replace the transfer rods without affecting track tension but you should not have to normally to adjust your track.
You should be able to remove and replace the transfer rods without affecting track tension but you should not have to normally to adjust your track.
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ya I would think you would be able to remove the transfer rod at the rail side and it wouldnt affect you track tension and alignment. When you put it all back together just recheck and if it isn't what you like you may just have to remove the transfer rods again and readjust until you get it where you want it. Hopefully not though.
skimau
New member
Ok good after the lunch I go take some picture of my problem
skimau
New member
That is as I thought in my previous post...an offset axle kit for the 8" wheel conversion...it is designed to work with wheels that have large access holes in them like in thunder66's avatar[see his earlier post picture].Your solid plastic wheels block access to the lock nut and bolt.
What you could do is drill one large hole with a hole saw in each wheel to give you access to the adjuster lock nut and bolt then you won't have to remove the transfer rods to adjust the track.
Bob
What you could do is drill one large hole with a hole saw in each wheel to give you access to the adjuster lock nut and bolt then you won't have to remove the transfer rods to adjust the track.
Bob
skimau
New member
Yeah it's a good idea or can i just change the two outside wheel to put wheel with hole ?
skimau said:
Yes you could pick up some 8" wheels that have spokes with big spaces in between.
skimau
New member
Ok for this time I wheel remove the transfert rod and I think I will buy a new kit of wheel it's more practice and give a nice look
skimau
New member
Finally to adjust the track I remove de two outside wheel to get the place to make a great adjustement...definatly I will check to buy aluminum wheel set é
A box end ratchet wrench should be able to get in there......
skimau
New member
no because the nut for loose the bogey is on the rear of my wheel...and I don't have any acces because I don't have hole in my wheel
While your at it looking at your pics. you may want to buy some new transfer rod bushings look like yours are shot.....
Take it from me I just had to replace every bushing and bearing in my rear skid on my SRX. Yamaha thinks the 1oz. woth of plastic in the bushing is made of GOLD! Keep on top of them so it's not such a hit to replace all at once!
skimau
New member
The bushing where the rods is Bolt ??
Because in the picture the transfert rods is loose, I remove it to have more place to tight my adjustement screw
Because in the picture the transfert rods is loose, I remove it to have more place to tight my adjustement screw