duncanc
New member
Hello,
I have done lots of searching on these forums and have found answers to the majority of my questions. I still have a couple of questions that I was hoping some of you guys could answer.
1. The sled seems to use too much oil. It's using nearly 2 qts per tank of fuel. I have the oil pump cable set at a gap of 24mm.
2. I have attached a pic of one of the spark plugs. Looks good to me what do you guys think? If it was burning too much oil wouldn't the plug be much blacker?
3. I notice when the sled is cold it sure smokes a lot at startup and at idle. (Greyish colored smoke). Seems to smoke a lot more than my neighbor's Ski-Doos and Polaris sleds. When on the trail it doesn't seem to smoke much. Is there something I should adjust in the carbs to lean it out a bit at idle?
4. One of the hand warmers wasn't working (measured an open cct), so I disconnected it. The other warmer will work for a couple mins after the sled is started but then quits. I am wondering if the ECU is cutting it out because with only one warmer connected extra current is being drawn? What do you think?
5. When temps are sub-zero, this thing is REALLY hard to pull over. Has anyone ever used a factory Yamaha in-line coolant heater on one of these sleds? Would it even help? I'm thinking the oil is what needs heating, not the coolant. Are there block heaters available for this sled?
Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated. Owned many quads and street bikes but all have been 4 strokes so much of this stuff is new to me.
I have done lots of searching on these forums and have found answers to the majority of my questions. I still have a couple of questions that I was hoping some of you guys could answer.
1. The sled seems to use too much oil. It's using nearly 2 qts per tank of fuel. I have the oil pump cable set at a gap of 24mm.
2. I have attached a pic of one of the spark plugs. Looks good to me what do you guys think? If it was burning too much oil wouldn't the plug be much blacker?
3. I notice when the sled is cold it sure smokes a lot at startup and at idle. (Greyish colored smoke). Seems to smoke a lot more than my neighbor's Ski-Doos and Polaris sleds. When on the trail it doesn't seem to smoke much. Is there something I should adjust in the carbs to lean it out a bit at idle?
4. One of the hand warmers wasn't working (measured an open cct), so I disconnected it. The other warmer will work for a couple mins after the sled is started but then quits. I am wondering if the ECU is cutting it out because with only one warmer connected extra current is being drawn? What do you think?
5. When temps are sub-zero, this thing is REALLY hard to pull over. Has anyone ever used a factory Yamaha in-line coolant heater on one of these sleds? Would it even help? I'm thinking the oil is what needs heating, not the coolant. Are there block heaters available for this sled?
Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated. Owned many quads and street bikes but all have been 4 strokes so much of this stuff is new to me.
Attachments
Last edited:
ford428cj
New member
duncanc said:
1. Should be set @ 22mm +/-1mm for the oil cable. Also you need to know exactly how much fuel is used to oil consumption.
2. Re-adjust your oil pump accordingly and read the plugs again after a day of running. It wont be as black (burring too bunch oil) as one thinks! I went through 3 Qrts of oil (not meaning too) LOL and the plugs looked like yours. Now after I figured it out, they read fine now.
3. Do one thing @ a time. Adjust the oil pump and go from there.
4. Could be the rheostat!?
5. Not that I see a lot of Sub 0 temps but yes it can be little harder then normal to turn over. I haven't known anyone to run a block heater but I guess you could. If your using snowmobile oil, you should be fine. JMHO
hope this helps.....
ErikBerg
New member
Yes, the MM consumes a lot of oil.
Yes, the MM smokes a lot when started. Use a really good oil and it will smoke less.
Yes, the MM is really heavy to start when cold. However starting should take 2-3 pulls, so it shouldn´t be a problem. Just make sure the choke cable is correctly adjusted. If to little choke, it could take some 10-20 pulls to start...
Yes, the MM smokes a lot when started. Use a really good oil and it will smoke less.
Yes, the MM is really heavy to start when cold. However starting should take 2-3 pulls, so it shouldn´t be a problem. Just make sure the choke cable is correctly adjusted. If to little choke, it could take some 10-20 pulls to start...
duncanc
New member
Thanks for the info guys. I am thinking the sled is probably running fine but will take a closer look at the oil consumption. I believe reducing the oil cable gap will make it use more oil so I'm not sure I want to do that.
I am using Shell Advance oil which seems to smell less than the Yamalube, but the thing still seems to smoke a lot at idle. Also really wish it was a bit easier to start at -20F. The electric start kits seem really expensive. I'm surprised that the weight savings is really worth the sore arm/shoulder. This is my first sled and I'm just surprised it's such a pain to start in the extreme cold. Takes 4-5 pulls but the first 3 pulls are awful.
A couple of more questions:
6. The airbox boots are somewhat offset from the carbs. I would say about 1/4". Seems excessive to me. On my dad's MM600 twin they line right up. What do yours look like?
7. How do I remove the drive belt? Service manual says to push on secondary and turn but I couldn't get that to work?
Thanks guys, you are a huge help.
I am using Shell Advance oil which seems to smell less than the Yamalube, but the thing still seems to smoke a lot at idle. Also really wish it was a bit easier to start at -20F. The electric start kits seem really expensive. I'm surprised that the weight savings is really worth the sore arm/shoulder. This is my first sled and I'm just surprised it's such a pain to start in the extreme cold. Takes 4-5 pulls but the first 3 pulls are awful.
A couple of more questions:
6. The airbox boots are somewhat offset from the carbs. I would say about 1/4". Seems excessive to me. On my dad's MM600 twin they line right up. What do yours look like?
7. How do I remove the drive belt? Service manual says to push on secondary and turn but I couldn't get that to work?
Thanks guys, you are a huge help.
Last edited:
carb boots are off-set by design on tripples.
to remove the belt, you need to push and turn the inner sheave on secondary clutch. once you get it going you can pull up on the belt. it will sink into the sheaves and hold them there with little effort. That will let you adjust your hands or take a break.
to remove the belt, you need to push and turn the inner sheave on secondary clutch. once you get it going you can pull up on the belt. it will sink into the sheaves and hold them there with little effort. That will let you adjust your hands or take a break.
Also, are your hand warmers stock yamaha? From the factory thaey are wired in series which means if you disconnect one, the other side should not work at all. If you disconnected one and connected both leads to one side, you have doubled the voltage to the connected hand warmer and it won't last long. New grips are only $16.77 each at partspitstop.com
For your oil consumption, make sure two sections of the oil cable housing where you check the freeplay are fully seated. If not it can hang the pump open too far under part throttle operation.
For your oil consumption, make sure two sections of the oil cable housing where you check the freeplay are fully seated. If not it can hang the pump open too far under part throttle operation.
duncanc
New member
Thanks for the info. Any idea why the carb boots are offset? Seems weird to me. One of my warmers is shot (open cct) so yes I connected power and ground leads to one side only. I guess that was a dumb idea, hopefully I didn't fry it. It seems to work on the low setting but not on high so I am hoping that the ECU regulates the voltage and protects itself and the warmer if too much current is drawn. Otherwise a short in one warmer (which is effectively what I have done) would burn up the other. I sure hope I haven't fried the thing.
Also, I was pushing on the outer sheave which would explain why I couldn't get the belt off......thanks for the tips!
Also, I was pushing on the outer sheave which would explain why I couldn't get the belt off......thanks for the tips!
ErikBerg
New member
"7. How do I remove the drive belt? Service manual says to push on secondary and turn but I couldn't get that to work?"
As suggested above, you pull the "triangel-shaped" part at the secondary clockwise as much as possible and remove the belt. It might help to lift the sled in the back, so the secondary can rotate.
Congratulations to a nice sled! If (read: when) you wanna start pimpin´ it, quickrods, SLP PP-skis and BOSS seat are (in order) great upgrades!
I know, cause have done them all! :-D
As suggested above, you pull the "triangel-shaped" part at the secondary clockwise as much as possible and remove the belt. It might help to lift the sled in the back, so the secondary can rotate.
Congratulations to a nice sled! If (read: when) you wanna start pimpin´ it, quickrods, SLP PP-skis and BOSS seat are (in order) great upgrades!
I know, cause have done them all! :-D
grapeape
New member
2 easy/free ways to get the belt off. 1 grap the belt between the 2 clutches down by the belly pan and pull up hard. This will force the secondary to open and allow you to remove the belt. 2 take a 12mm wrench, put it on one of the 3 nuts on the helix, "tighten" the nut while pushing in the clutch.
porkhaaks
New member
If you take the plugs out,, then pull it over a bunch of times, it frees it up... then put the plugs back in and it fires right up.. MY two 700 rds only pull over hard at that certain temp. my 2 cents. and yes pulling the plugs is a waste off sledding time.. yes there are inline block heaters ....