canfieldcoll
New member
Can any one tell me where to buy one? Or tell me how to make one. Setting my viper up to run on ice.
nobody sells anything that I know of. You will have to make your own. pretty simple to make a gravity fed system. Install some sort of bottle under the hood somewhere kinda high to hold your lube. Install a fitting in the bottle and run a short tube out of it then T the line off and run lines to each suspension rail with a shut off valve on each line that is easily accesible to open and close when you get to the start line. Then drill a hole through each rail and slide and put a fitting in the rail hook the line up and there you go. It is pretty simple just got to route the lines so they don't get caught in any moving parts. Best thing to do is look at how other guys are doing it on your model sled. Some guys are hooking them up to pulse pumps to pump the lube to the slides but I think gravity fed works good enough.canfieldcoll said:
montynormand
Member
Yse just as SRX700guy said. I have ran both gravity fed and pumped systems on my oval racers. Pump systems run another fuel pump from the pulse line on the crank case. this second pump is dedicated to the lube system.
Whal Bros sells a pump kit
http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=17997&cat=0&page=4&click=srclick
But its way to spendy for me
Whal Bros sells a pump kit
http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=17997&cat=0&page=4&click=srclick
But its way to spendy for me
Just pull off your sliders and add some wheels, even better yet and cheaper.
No not better!!! Maybe for Grass drags and asphault drags but not ice!! Watch the mod sleds and see how many wheels they have on their skids. NOT MANY!!fusion 69 said:
valin
Active member
You can also use any windshield washer pump that you can buy from your local auto retailer, and just wire it into your electrical system through a switch. That is what I did.
well that how we roll, why isn't it better, more wheels is more pressure to hook upSRX700guy said:
more wheels equals more resistance. How do you figure more wheels will add more pressure for traction??fusion 69 said:
valin
Active member
Wheels vs. sliders and lube is a rather interesting topic.
One of the main benefits of running a lube system setup with no wheels (and you must remove all of the wheels for this to work) is the fact that you will have a nice, even rail pressure on the track, and therefore have more constant pressure for your ice pics or chisels to penetrate the ice, resulting in more traction.
Would there be a gain to just pulling out the sliders, and just running wheels? I do not know. I would tend to think not, but I have also never actually tested an all wheel setup on an open window track. There certainly would be some added friction caused from the extra wheels, that is, unless you decided to spend $1000 and install ceramic bearings.
With no sliders, you could always swap out your track, and run a windowless track like a Camoplast 9810R. The track is 5 lbs lighter than a 9811 due to not having any clips. I also believe there is an additional advantage to having a track with no windows, which reduces air turbulence and resistance. So, in a situation like this, does losing 5 lbs of final rotating mass make up for the added friction caused by the extra wheels?
In my personal experiences over the years, I have gone faster on the ice with an all-wheel setup in a closed window track than I have with a slider / lube setup on an open window track.
Just something to think about....
One of the main benefits of running a lube system setup with no wheels (and you must remove all of the wheels for this to work) is the fact that you will have a nice, even rail pressure on the track, and therefore have more constant pressure for your ice pics or chisels to penetrate the ice, resulting in more traction.
Would there be a gain to just pulling out the sliders, and just running wheels? I do not know. I would tend to think not, but I have also never actually tested an all wheel setup on an open window track. There certainly would be some added friction caused from the extra wheels, that is, unless you decided to spend $1000 and install ceramic bearings.
With no sliders, you could always swap out your track, and run a windowless track like a Camoplast 9810R. The track is 5 lbs lighter than a 9811 due to not having any clips. I also believe there is an additional advantage to having a track with no windows, which reduces air turbulence and resistance. So, in a situation like this, does losing 5 lbs of final rotating mass make up for the added friction caused by the extra wheels?
In my personal experiences over the years, I have gone faster on the ice with an all-wheel setup in a closed window track than I have with a slider / lube setup on an open window track.
Just something to think about....
the wheels will add the pressure to the track that the sliders aren't. Very good staement there Valin, those are my thoughts as well.
valin
Active member
The wheels will only add pressure where the wheel meets the track. Sliders provide a contacting surface that is much larger, and more uniform, resulting is a much more even distribution of pressure, and greater traction. You would require ALOT of wheels in order to try to achieve the same contact area.
valin said:
The only real contact area is right under the track clips, thats why they sell "hooker" plates you weld to your track clips, this is the point where all the pressure is from slides, they dont apply any "extra"contacting pressure to the center of the track nor the outside. If you look at a tack picked on a flat surface you can actually see the center heave up in between the rails and the edges roll up and inward. Using wheels allows you to put pressure in certain key areas of the track where you want it. Asphalt is exactly the same scenario, thats why the "roller" type axles give the best contact patch pattern, be the same as amount of pressure per pick line in the ice.
Obviously grass and asphalt you need wheels, with ice it can be done both ways, but with rail/slider lube added during a run the sleds may actually provide less rolling resistance, not pick pressure.
You have to PULL that pick back OUT of the ice as much as you have to put the pick into the ice,so the guy with the most pressure surely isnt the winner. Comes down to whats faster, gotta test and see which way you can get the best mph for your application.
Could very easily be a combo of slides with a few key placed wheels at a certain heigth to provide the best of both worlds.
canfieldcoll
New member
Thanks guys,
Trying it out today. Squirt bottle for now wan't to set up some type of lube system. Have 196 chisels in it now we will see how it bits. Just want to see how it goes today and brake it in easy. Changed cluthing around a little hoping to get right rpm.
Trying it out today. Squirt bottle for now wan't to set up some type of lube system. Have 196 chisels in it now we will see how it bits. Just want to see how it goes today and brake it in easy. Changed cluthing around a little hoping to get right rpm.
are you doing drags or speed runs? if you are doing speed runs 196 chisels is going to slow you down alot. but if you are doing drags they will definitly get you out of the hole with good traction.canfieldcoll said:
canfieldcoll
New member
Tried it out tonight setting it up 1000 feet drags. Think i need more picks or better suspension set up. Got to get back on it to get it to bite. Clutching seems to be good. Running 8bu 10s 49 45 bender helix. Seems to bite better when it get going. Once i get about 100 feet out bites and skis come up a little and turns 8500.