high idle

T

theo125

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Feb 26, 2009
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East Greenbush Ny
Hi guys,
Quick question. I have an exciter with a high idle. The idle was high since cleaning the carbs this summer. The idle screws don't seem to be doing anything. Could the throttle cable be too loose(or would that make it tight)> I tried the old trick spraying starting fluid around the carb boots and seals with no change. The plugs look like coffee color with 2 creams, not white. Is it possible to put the slides in wrong? Maybe I need to check the chokes? Maybe someone has come across this?
Thanks in advance
 

I was just thinking-the chokes have been giving me issues. I have them backed out loose so I dont think they are working. Can the carbs suck air through the choke bores and speed up the idle?
 
did you check the throttle cable freeplay? could be its too tight and pulling the carbs open so the idle screw is having no affect.



what happens when you pull the choke lever over while its high idling?
 
Could your slides be in the wrong way. make sure the angled notch is on the idle set screw side and the slide goes all the way down.
 
snowdad4 said:
did you check the throttle cable freeplay? could be its too tight and pulling the carbs open so the idle screw is having no affect.



what happens when you pull the choke lever over while its high idling?
Click to expand...
Hey Dad how's it going? How do I check that? When I pulled the lever it idled down but if I left it on I think it would stall.
Thanks
 
with the sled shut off, dont do this while its running, loosen the cable adjuster nut at the carb rack, both the set nut and the other threaded fitting. turning clockwise(in) loosens the cable. watch what the cable does as well what the lever does that the cable is attached to. go slow and methodically.

you may also have to back out the idle screw in proportion with loosening the throttle cable.

watch for the cable to start to slack. keep flipping the throttle lever to help the spring retract the cable. at this point, when the cable starts to slack, you should have 2mm of gap between the throttle flipper and the perch(the part mounted to the bars with the kill switch on it), before it starts to activate the carbs.

when you reach this point(2mm), now you should be able to turn the idle screw to get the desired idle rpm. try this and report back.
 
I think you are on to something. If the cable is to tight the slide is always raised up. The flipper is right against the perch, with no slack. This would make it hard to cold start right? You are not supposed to apply the throttle when choke is on, robs vacuum or something? I will give it a go today-will report back. Thanks
 
One more thing I was just thinking about. I took off the performance exuasts and put the stock setup back on during the summer. It was quite loud and the kind of riding I do did not warrant it. Would that change anything?
 
in theory aftermarket pipes require richer than stock jetting. usually 2 sizes over on the mains and sometimes they upsize the pilots as well. so you might possibly end up running rich. based on your plug color description, it doesnt sound like it.

i have seen alot of boneheads install pipes and not change jetting. either way, it shouldnt affect the idle issue your experiencing on the sled.
 
Adjusted for described play. I am thinking now that these are not the right carbs. The previous owner said he could not get the sled to run with the carbs he took off, I cleaned them out thoroughly, they were a mess! He put the carbs that are on the machine now and they are slightly different. I believe the ones on the machine have the number 84M and the ones he could not get to work are 86M ooL. The idle screw is different along with the air screw. The brass idle screw that are in the spare set is a little thinner and has a much sharper point. Also what I thought was strange is that the spare set has a ball bearing in each of the thin fuel lines that runs from the bowl to the body?I am thinking the slides are for the body that is out of the sled. I am getting ready to try and swap the carbs out. might wait until the weekend as we are getting a huge dump tonight. Headscratcher
 
theo-those carbs should be almost identical with the exception of the needles and the nozzles, unless they have the provisions for heat. if the air or idle screw appears blunt, simply save some time and swap them without pulling the carbs. they will interchange.
 
I thought about that. I will give it a try. Maybe the thicker idle screw is making it hang up somehow? What is that ball bearing in the bottom lines all about in my spare set?
 
we honestly had the same problem when we put the carb slides back in a 90 exiter
I did how many of them and got them in right but the slead idled high so I told my freind to take them out make sure it is all a lined and goes all the way to the idle screw and after that it worked perfect I thought if the throttle lever worked freely it was good I was wrong. hope you get her going.

Evan
 
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