confused with clutching

S

Spinner18

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Joined
Jan 16, 2006
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Location
Virginia, MN
so i wanted to start from scratch with clutching. today, i have stock primary spring, loaded 8dn-20's, and totally stock secondary.

with 80 wrap on the secondary, if i was running along and punched it, the tach went to 8800-8850 and settled in around 8600. turned down the wrap to 70. punched it, rpm went to 8600, fell to 8500, and held 8500 for a bit, then rpms started to drop to 8100.... i am not sure why this is? could only get about 97 mph out of it 20* day on smooth groomed trail which had set up...clutches were pretty cool, no belt slip

with a stock set-up, the pull felt quite a bit weaker than with my 52-46 micro belmont helix with 80 wrap, but i could only pull 8100 rpms with that (but ran 105-106 on gps)

tomorrow, i am going to go out with my 52-46 again, and try green spring at 70 wrap and see what happens with rpm. with this helix, midrange pull is alot more.

i am still confused why my rpms wanted to drop with my stock helix though, at some points with 80 wrap on it and the loaded 8dn-20's, say from 20 mph and i punched it, i would see 9000 rpms, but it still settled at 8600, then slowly fell to 8100-8200, very confused...again, clutches pretty cool...

is the 1gram of added weight in the midrange profile of the weight enough to pull down top end rpm after holding it WOT for over 3/4 of a mile?

help?
 
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your not the only one confused with clutching.I basically have decided to leave everything stock and forget about clutching for an extra 3 mph or something..to much $$ wasted and time.Gonna be cold this weekend so my stock setup should run good..have it with the rpm's dead on. 4.5 inner and 5.4 outer on weights.
The 8bu1o,s just don't wanna give me the rpm's..today with a 49/45 helix and 53 gram weights..green at 60 ..I hit 95 on speed at 8100 rpm and no more.Last weekend tried every combination of springs..silver,green.red and every combination of wrap..60,70,80 and 90..The weights were at 53.7g each that time.My rpm's just to low wot.I miss that wot pull to 8400 -8500,haven't seen it much this year.The w-w-w primary spring is just to weak..won't hold the belt tight in primary either..CONFUSING!!!
I wanna just ride now..no wrenching.I think I am going to get my spare long travel SX shocks and install in the SRX again and get it long travelled..my back is reall y paying the price these days,not many seasons left at this rate. :o| #$%&*
 
i just don't understand why, with my 52-46 helix with my red at 80 at 8100rpm, i can get 105 in 40* temps, but with my 47 helix and wrap at 70 or 80, i don't see much over 95... and the bigger helix has alot more snort pull when i hit the gas, or at least it feels like it...i know stock srx clutching should get me faster than 95, is it the loaded weights doing it?
 
Hey spinner.....I am lost too, so it is the blind leading the blind, but did you try to remove some weight out of your primary weights with your other setup to bring up the rpms?Have you read the Olav aaen's clutching book? It is in the tech section. I think it will help a lot with questions. I am not saying you will be Turk after reading it but it should give you some insight. The more weight in your primary the lower the rpms, which means you either need to change primary spring or add more weight to your stock setup to help you hit target rpms. From what I have learned on the site.....I know nothing other than I need an initial setup inorder to make anything out of my clutching. I would start with a setup and see if you can go from there. I hope this helps!
 
hey it is not all about speed anyways..as long as it gets there fast enough.Just ride and ride a reliable sled and enjoy the winter because it is short as always.
 
It is short, and my set ups are still a fun ride. But I shouldn't need to remove tip weight, sled is bone stock, and it should be able to run stock clutching... But I don't see why loaded stock weights can't be pulled with stock specs, and when I run 80 wrap on my spring, it'll rev to 9000 and then settle down, then at 70 wrap it'll rev 8600 then settle at 8100. Just really odd. New springs, bushings are all good. Only thing different than stock is my track, it's off a phazer and is 14 wide and light. I'll have to check my drivers, I don't know if previous owner switched them by chance... But going to try out my 52-46 tomorrow with green at 70... Hell, with my 52-46 and red at 80 rpm is only 8100 but I can run 105 gps all day... Don't get it.
 
And if i get really sick of clutching, I'm throwing on my rumble pack stingers I picked up and be happy with the sound anyways :)
 
4945 didnt work blue? Taking some weight out of my 8bu10s hope to try it this weekend. If I can get rpms up sled is going to fly. Went head to head with mackz 800 seat up same way. 240 chisels speed track to my little 700 with 196 chisels guys at bender tell me im about 10 horse down turn it 8700.
 
if its bone stock ..make sure u have the right primary and secondary spring and make sure those power work properly ..if not rpm will go way down
 
Stock primary spring and stock secondary spring, stock helix was used today. Only difference again, was the middle of the weight had the big rivet in it... Not sure why it wot rub right at 8500, I'm either way over, or ends up way under with only a difference of 10* twist. I'm really frustrated.

I'll check power valves again, but like I said, with 80 wrap it would hit damn near 9000 and settle in at 8650-8700....And at 70 it would hit 8600, settle at 8400, but fall to 8100 for some reason after it's pulling strong for about a half mile...
 
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Spinner18 said:
It is short, and my set ups are still a fun ride. But I shouldn't need to remove tip weight, sled is bone stock, and it should be able to run stock clutching... But I don't see why loaded stock weights can't be pulled with stock specs, and when I run 80 wrap on my spring, it'll rev to 9000 and then settle down, then at 70 wrap it'll rev 8600 then settle at 8100. Just really odd. New springs, bushings are all good. Only thing different than stock is my track, it's off a phazer and is 14 wide and light. I'll have to check my drivers, I don't know if previous owner switched them by chance... But going to try out my 52-46 tomorrow with green at 70... Hell, with my 52-46 and red at 80 rpm is only 8100 but I can run 105 gps all day... Don't get it.
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whoa....bud.....Most srx's from what I have read with over shift stock. Which is what yours is doing at 9000 rpms. I am sorry to confuse you more but I was talking about removing weight with your 52-46 set up, because you were under revving. Now every sled and rider(14wide phazer track which is a lot lighter, which means your motor will pull it easyier, there for over rev) is different. Which is why your clutches are not pulling proper rpm. So start with your 52-46 helix and wrap it to 70 and see what you get for rpm and note what the temp and snow conditions are like. Then if you are under revving take a little weight out of the helix at the shift point that is under revving. So if you are a wot and are under revving take a little weight out of the tip. Do you have a gram scale? I am trying to help not hurt ;)!
 
Spinner18 said:
Stock primary spring and stock secondary spring, stock helix was used today. Only difference again, was the middle of the weight had the big rivet in it... Not sure why it wot rub right at 8500, I'm either way over, or ends up way under with only a difference of 10* twist. I'm really frustrated.
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What are the clutch temps like?
 
I can hold my hand on both clutches all day long after 80 miles straight on the trail, then followed by high speed runs... I just put in my 52-46 helix with green at 70, I will test that tomorrow. It did pull very well with that helix, but with red spring at 80 it just wasn't getting rpm. Isis like how it shiftedthough, with 52-46 and red at 80, it would hit 8500 wot, then shift down to 8100 at about 100 mph and climb to 105 mph. If I am not happy with green spring with shifting and rpm, I'll try red at 100. If neither of those make me happy, I will then have to adjust weight in primary. I don't have a gram scale. I suppose I should get one
 
I run a 51-45 bender helix in my 600 srx and I have green spring that I run between 60-80 depending on how I want it to back shift so try that. I think your better off with a green at 60 than a red at 100. But you have to try it. You want to adjust the shift rpm's with the primary and leave the secondary at a set position if it is not hot. Scales are real cheap I bought mine off of ebay and they really help. Then you can grind a little off of the rivets to take it down a little at a time.
 
That's good thinking. Even with a red spring and 52-46, the clutch isn't hot. I will see what happens with the green though and decide from their. I will post results of how the green performs tomorrow. The helix does have a Ton of better pull than stock 47, I could feel that...
 
Green at 70, your 52-46,,,,,,,, pull and check carbs,, make sure all circuits are clear,,,,,, pull power valves and clean adjust to 2.5mm,,,,, for a stock sled you should be able to run over 5.g in the tip........ I'v got 5.4 in tip and it goes to 8500-8600 and stays..... 100mph on soft stuff and will Barrie the speedo on the flat...........I'm running ysy spring on primary,.......
 
What's in your secondary whammy? Also, whats the stock primary, I can't remember offhand and takes too long to check on my phone, curious how your primary spring compares to the stock one, or if that it stock. Do you have a washer on the tip weight?
 
green ,,,,,,, stock is ywy and has a 128lb finish........ the primary spring I use has a 118 finish grabs belt more with weight I use.....I use button head machine screws with washers and jam nuts for ease of tuning..........
 
I think I will start doing this, just ordered a scale. What size machine screws do you use, curious diameter and length
 
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