Clutch Bushings

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Pauljones

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Oct 24, 2009
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Manitoba, Canada
My Clutch Bushings (primary and secondary) arrived today. I will separate my primary tomorrow with my grunt tool. My questions are about replacing the bushings:
1) Use a press or just push them out with a socket (or similar)? Use Heat?
2) Use loctite (or similar) on new bushings? If so what brand of loctite and how much, and where do you apply?

Any suggestions, tips, warnings would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

Pauljones said:
My Clutch Bushings (primary and secondary) arrived today. I will separate my primary tomorrow with my grunt tool. My questions are about replacing the bushings:
1) Use a press or just push them out with a socket (or similar)? Use Heat?
2) Use loctite (or similar) on new bushings? If so what brand of loctite and how much, and where do you apply?

Any suggestions, tips, warnings would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

1.)definitely use a press, make a tool from alum or steel to fit the inside of the bushing and step out over the edge of the bushing, they crack easily if you dont take full advantage of the entire edge lip.

2.) use either the green sleeve lok or the red loctite on the outside of the bushing, I smear a bit on the clutc as well(be sure its clean and free of old left over dried loctite on clutch surface, clean with brake clean and install new bushing with loctite.

3.)just take your time and its very simple.
 
I've removed and replaced the bushings on both the primary and secondary clutches over a hundred time on various sleds. MrViper is 100% correct, the only way to install the new bushings is to use an arbor that fits precisely inside the bushing and has a step on it to catch the outer edge of the bushing. You really need to use a hydraulic press, it will not require much force but you need the control provided by the press. If you use a socket or some other tool that does not fit the bushing and exert the force uniformly around the outer edge, you will definitely deform and or crak the bushing defetaing the whole purpose of the new bushing. I make my own bushings using SAE 841 (oil-lite) bushing material and I make them so they fit the shaft more precisely than the OEM bushings. I made a simple removal/installation toll using aluminum round stock. Any machine shop cou;d make this simple tool. Definitely use the loctite on the bushing, I use the red loctite. If you don't, it will work its way out.
 
Harbor Frieght sells a cheap bearing race install kit with multiple sized flanged pucks. The kit also includes handles for use with a hammer which is fine for replacing tapered races but as mentioned isn't advised in this application.

I use a gear driven press and extension.
 
Thanks, for all the help and suggestions. Changed the bushings, went OK. The larger one on the primary sheave was tough to remove. But in the end, everything went fine. There is a lot less play on the secondary sheave with the new bushing, but the primary did not seem to tighten up that much. I used O.E.M. Yamaha bushings and they are not as tight as I thought they would be. I have read some threads of people buying oil light bushings from Ulmer Racing. Is this a recommended upgrade over O.E.M.?
 
Allen Ullmer sells oil-lite bushings for the secondary clutch and an oil-lite bushing for the primary clucth cover. I replaced all of the bushings in the primary and secondary clutches of both of my SRX's and my RX-1 with the oil-lite bushings. The bushings from Allen are a more precise fit than the OEM fiber bushings. I have 3000 miles on the oil-lite bushings in teh clutches on my RX-1 with no noticeable wear.
 
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