Viper suspension settings

S

sx600

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I need some help in adjusting the ride of my 2002 sx viper with ripsaw track, maxx perf. rods, and updated shock package.

This is the current set-up I rode with last week:

1/4" limiter straps, full rate adjuster on the bottom (firmest) setting, and tightened the center spring as much as possible (about 2-3 turns past the factory spec for tightness, front shocks are at factory spec for tightness, rear shock was left alone (middle of factory spec), rods showing 3 lines from the top.

This set-up plows through corners fairly bad and lifts the skis through corners a lot. If I adjusted the rods up to 1 or 2 lines showing (thus less weight transfer = better cornering) the track would hit the tunnel I think. Fairly loud bump when you hit the gas from a stop or from a low MPH.

Riding conditions were loose snow - so I'm sure that has a lot to do with the plowing, but I'm still concerned about the track. Any ideas on why the track would be hitting??? I believe it to be due to the softness of the shocks. When you hit the gas the back end really sinks down...

On the plus side - I was really impressed with the sled overall. The power and smoothness of the engine is amazing. Just need to fine tune the suspension now...
 
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limiters 3/4 of a inch,fra about an 1 1/2-2 inch transfer rods all the way up.Front shock about 3 inch
 
do you still have tunnel protectors or heat exchanger protectors in? how long have you had this track in?
 
Just put it in. This was a brand new left over 2002 I just bought in Sep. Took the tunnel and front exchanger protectors out when I put the track on.

I talked to a local dealer here - they said to set the shocks back to the middle spec as they come from Yamaha - and to lenghen the limiter straps to 1". Also the rods should be on line 4 or 5 showing (4-5 lines on top of the adjuster). That will probably help the track from bottoming, as I had it on 1,2, and 3 showing. When it was on 3 it didn't bottom as much.

The set-up I have on right now came from Mr. Sled - so I bet it's not too far off. I think I might just try to lenthen the limiter strap to the 1" and add a line or two on the rods to see if that helps.

Any other ideas??? I don't think the track is too loose either...
 
it sounds like your rear shock is too soft, i think there is a suspension setup article in the tech section. it will tell you about making your track set flat and setting gap distance on your control rods for all around ride. mrsled knows his poop, so i am sure he can point you in a direction. check for how much set in you have when you are all geared up. I wouldnt lengthen your straps until you read the article.
 
how much do you weight?? I gave you this setting?? I would take all the preload off the center spring and adjust that limiter strap (usually 1 1/4" threads showing above the nut) to get the track to all hit the ground at the same time or just the front slightly. Once the limiters are set with zero preload in the center spring at 3 to 4 turns to the spring. As far as the transfer rods, put them to stock setting then adjust your full rate adjuster to middle and tighten your spring to the point of when your weight is on the sled that the gaps above and below the transfer rods washer are the same or slightly more on the top...then adjust the transfer if you want it to wheelie. But for trail riding the stock setting will work the best.
 
Yes I got the set-up from you in this topic - unless I missed something... http://www.totallyamaha.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2638&page=1&pp=10

I weigh about 205 with gear on.

Bruce from B-line is really big on leaving the full rate adjuster to the bottom firm setting, although my previous sled (vmax sx) was in the middle too. Maybe I should try that in the middle...

I can't get the space the same with the current set-up. It was the same with the stiffer stock shocks on it. I now have the maxx perf rods on with the 10mm spacers on top and bottom (which is what they suggest to do for the viper).
 
Thanks for the reply Mr. Sled - I'm wondering if I should make all those changes at once though??? If I do change multiple things - should I go back to the stock shock preload settings for all shocks and only lengthen the limiter strap and move the full rate adjuster to the middle?

Or should I just try the limiter straps first and go from there?
 
I would try this 1st, take the full rate adjuster to the middle and try and get the gap the same with your weight...then take that for a ride...if it still bottoms and pushes then we need to adjust the center shock.....but take the transfer rods to the stock setting.
 
thanks - no limiter straps adjustments for now then?? They are only 1/4" bolt sticking out of the nut.
 
wow....no those should be at least 3/4" to 1 1/4"...that 1/4" was preload on the shock in my other thread...but dont touch the preload...but at least suck the straps to 3/4"
 
ok - that's what I'll try. I just hate wasting a trip with a bad set-up (as there is no snow here, so my next ride is probably going to be iron river, wi on 1/2/05 and I would like a good shot at a decent ride).

I'm going to try:
front shocks firm, center firm, rear is middle of the spec, limiter straps 1", middle position on the full rate adjuster and see where the control rods are.

If that helps the gap on the rods, do you thing that will stop the track from bottoming on hard acceleration too? I assume it will help - as the shorter limiter straps will reduce the weight transfer.
 
Wow

I guessed on my set up with a Ripsaw and 136" extensions. Darn if I was not very close to what you guys are saying. I released all preload on center rear shock, pulled limiters up to 1" of thread showing above nut. Rotated rear center spring maybe 2-3 turns. Rear shock/transfer rods were stock for my 121". I could not get the gap correct, so I went to stiff setting on FRA, set rods at #2, and turned spring maybe 1 revolution.

Little harsh on the ride and I need more bite on skis. 8" carbides, no studs, 190 pounds. Back of track is still a little in the air. Was worried that I had very little W-arm travel as I sucked liliters up.

Going to suck up limiters a little more. Re-set FRA to middle, set rods to stock, and then tighten rear shock to get gap correct. Only have 10mm of tightening according to Yamaha.

Questions? Think the W-arm will be more prone to breakage with the limiters at say 1"- 1 1/4"? Do you stiffen front suspension shock springs or loosen front shock springs to try to get more ski bite?
 
Good point - my back of my track is off the ground too, about 1" by the rear wheels.

Not sure on the front shock question - I'm curious as well...

I posed these same questions to my local dealer and to Bruce from B-line performance. Dealer said to return shocks to middle setting as supplied by Yamaha and to lengthen the limiter straps to 1".

Bruce wanted me to take all the preload out of the rear shock - he said this would allow the hydraulics of the shocks to help the situation. He knows his stuff too - I just don't understand his logic most of the time. Ultimately though, he said the update shocks are too soft and the factory shocks were too stiff - revalve the factory ones and sell the soft ones. I might consider that if I can't get things right here - but I would rather find something to work for the soft shocks.
 
I have the shock update and ride "hard". They are not too soft "end of story". In fact, I rode both set-ups and the new shock package is a "no brainer". Sell the old ones off the sled on Ebay and you got a new set-up for like $50-$100.

Unless your gonna race this thing in a snocross the new shock package is mint. Don't get all hyped up on this stuff and keep saying to yourself. "NO BRAINER"
 
Stick with your set up..sx600, I think you will be surprized....just make sure those transfer nuts are in the stock setting before you go setting it.
 
ok - finally got around to adjusting things again. front skis went back to middle setting for preload (stock setting from yamaha) as did the rear center and rear rear. The limiter straps are now at 1" bolt showing past the nut. Track sits real nice and flat on the ground now.

However, trying to get the 50/50 control rod gap has proved challenging. I have the maxximum performance quick adjust rods on now - not the original rods. I am assuming that line 3 showing is stock on the stock rods (3 lines on top of the nut). I am also assuming around line 5 would correspond to stock on the maxx rods - as they have 7 lines of adjustment. I also have the 10mm spacers from maxx perf. that they suggest for the viper application. Something about returning to stock specifications using the 10mm spacers from them. The updated shock package came with a new 5 mm spacer you were supposed to install on the bottom of the rod.

Here's the problem: at firm FRA setting - barely any gap at bottom at all, middle FRA setting = maybe 80/10, top FRA (softest) setting = around 60/40. So, do I leave it in the top position? Won't that make the rear suspension even softer???

Or do I leave the FRA in the middle and increase preload in the rear/rear shock?

What are the +/- of either set-up (FRA top, rear shock middle setting vs. FRA middle, rear shock tighter)?
 
I ran my Viper for 2yrs with the stiff shocks and just installed the updated ones this season.

I'm 230lbs and was concerned that they might be too soft. I installed the shocks with the FRA set in the middle and my transfer rods set for max transfer.

It doesn't bottom out easily and it's easy on the back. The trails were really rough the last time I was out and it just barely bottomed out once. I do need more carbide in the skis though.
 
if thats 80 on the top then I would try the fra in the softest 60/40 on the transfer rods....or go the the middle and remove some preload on the rear shock to get it to 60/40 split...
 
Yes - that is 80/20 top/bottom. I'm hoping to go for a ride on Sat (depending on where the rain is/was) - so I think for simplicity I will leave the FRA in the top (softest) and see what happens. The rods have 7 lines of adjustment, so hopefully they alone will be able to dial in a good ride on the trail. I will let you know what happens... Also - after reading the yamaha TSB in the tech. pages for tuning for a softer ride again last night, the FRA in the softest (top) setting should actually make the ride firmer. I don't understand why they call it the soft setting then (and vice versa - to soften the suspension you move the FRA to the bottom firm setting). For those that did not know: as you move the FRA up from bottom to middle to top - that increases the gap on the top of your transfer rod. Same can be done with the preload in the rear/rear shock. Decrease preload to increase the gap on top of the rod. It also seems like increasing the top gap will offer a softer ride. a 50/50 or 60/40 top to bottom gap ratio should give most people an even balance of ride comfort, handling, and bump capability.

Thanks for the help!
 
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