2000 SRX. At first, the low beams worked, and then intermittently (when I accelerated, they would swtich to high). Now it just stays on high. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
Sounds like a switch problem. Do an Ohlm check on the wires coming from the switch after you disconnect them from the harness. Check the reading on high and low. If you get an unlimited reading on the low wire then there is a problem with the switch or wire. If they both read the same then it may be in the wiring harness itself. A lot of times the wiring harness under that handle bar padding and along the cowling gets rubbed through or broken and will cause issues like you discribed.
Mills said:Sounds like a switch problem. Do an Ohlm check on the wires coming from the switch after you disconnect them from the harness. Check the reading on high and low. If you get an unlimited reading on the low wire then there is a problem with the switch or wire. If they both read the same then it may be in the wiring harness itself. A lot of times the wiring harness under that handle bar padding and along the cowling gets rubbed through or broken and will cause issues like you discribed.
I'd also suggest the infamous wire harness under the motor. Anyone who owns a 98-02 SRX (and perhaps Viper, others too) should yank the harness and give it a careful inspection for frays, insulation rub-through, breaks, etc. These conditions can cause just about any kind of electrical gremlin you can think of. The harness is just taped with no complete protection from abrasion.
It's been my experience that 90% of time the wiring issue I'm chasing is found with a thorough visual inspection. Sure a continuity check for open/shorts may help narrow your search but never assume by just looking. Get in there and wiggle, tug, turn over, twist, peel - inspect every mm of every wire from end to end. Then take it out and do it again.
If I owned one and didn't know the condition of the harness, I'd yank it whether I had a concern or not.
Check the FAQ for R&R tips.
I am thinking I have some sort of rub through also with my headlight wires. When I have them on high beam they work fine and the sled runs fine. When I switch to low beams they just barely light up and the sled acts like it is missing on a cylinder. I'm trying to just get by using highbeams only to finish out this years riding then this summer I am going to go through all of the electrical on this sled as the handwarmers aren't working anymore either, The speedo reads about 40mph just sitting idleing and the fuel guage reads full all the time.snomofo said:I'd also suggest the infamous wire harness under the motor. Anyone who owns a 98-02 SRX (and perhaps Viper, others too) should yank the harness and give it a careful inspection for frays, insulation rub-through, breaks, etc. These conditions can cause just about any kind of electrical gremlin you can think of. The harness is just taped with no complete protection from abrasion.
It's been my experience that 90% of time the wiring issue I'm chasing is found with a thorough visual inspection. Sure a continuity check for open/shorts may help narrow your search but never assume by just looking. Get in there and wiggle, tug, turn over, twist, peel - inspect every mm of every wire from end to end. Then take it out and do it again.
If I owned one and didn't know the condition of the harness, I'd yank it whether I had a concern or not.
Check the FAQ for R&R tips.
My Electrical issues are:
- High Beams stay on regardless of depressing the switch
- Kill Switch does not work
- TORS not working (holding the throttle against the pivot does not limit RPM to 2,800)
- Kill Switch depressed causes sled to miss fire when warmed up at low RPMS
Is this all a result of rub thru? There are no other symptons the sled is exhibiting of potential wire rub thru except described above.
- High Beams stay on regardless of depressing the switch
- Kill Switch does not work
- TORS not working (holding the throttle against the pivot does not limit RPM to 2,800)
- Kill Switch depressed causes sled to miss fire when warmed up at low RPMS
Is this all a result of rub thru? There are no other symptons the sled is exhibiting of potential wire rub thru except described above.
9801srx
Member
check the harness where the wires leave the handle bars and go down to the steering hoop,this is another common area for broken wires and all your issues are to do with things in the handle bar area.SRX_700 said:My Electrical issues are:
- High Beams stay on regardless of depressing the switch
- Kill Switch does not work
- TORS not working (holding the throttle against the pivot does not limit RPM to 2,800)
- Kill Switch depressed causes sled to miss fire when warmed up at low RPMS
Is this all a result of rub thru? There are no other symptons the sled is exhibiting of potential wire rub thru except described above.
SRX_700 said:My Electrical issues are:
- High Beams stay on regardless of depressing the switch
- Kill Switch does not work
- TORS not working (holding the throttle against the pivot does not limit RPM to 2,800)
- Kill Switch depressed causes sled to miss fire when warmed up at low RPMS
Is this all a result of rub thru? There are no other symptons the sled is exhibiting of potential wire rub thru except described above.
Well, no I'd think you have:
- faulty Highbeam switch and kill switch or wire disconnect for the latter
- disconnected/bypassed TORS connectors
- again, the switch or rub through perhaps......
Does the wire harness that runs from front to rear under the engine look to be wrapped only in tape? If so I'd pull it and inspect it.
...of course along with the other areas Mills and 9801 suggest.
Basically every inch of the circuit your suspect of from the control (switch, sensor, pick up, etc) to the device (servo, coil, warmer, etc).
SRX700guy said:I am thinking I have some sort of rub through also with my headlight wires. When I have them on high beam they work fine and the sled runs fine. When I switch to low beams they just barely light up and the sled acts like it is missing on a cylinder. I'm trying to just get by using highbeams only to finish out this years riding then this summer I am going to go through all of the electrical on this sled as the handwarmers aren't working anymore either, The speedo reads about 40mph just sitting idleing and the fuel guage reads full all the time.
I can't say I've heard of a rub through causing permanent damage to another component so I can't recommend continued riding or stop now. I've found electronics to be surprisingly resiliant to shorts but not always.
A shorted shift motor took out 3 fuses from two boxes on my wife's truck but left the control module unscathed. A shorted headlight switch on my Bronco never burned a fuse but melted the connector (due to too much load - he, he) and let the smoke out of the DRL module...
But it isn't too tough pulling the harness or checking the other areas by just yanking the bar/cowl covers.
Unplug the harness from both ends, tie a string to one end, pull it through, inspect/repair/protect, tie string and pull back through.
Be sure to check out the FAQ when getting started.
Get 'r done
The SRX is kinda just a backup sled this year. It was supposed to be retired to a dedicated speed run sled but I have blown up 2 trail sled motors this year so it has been trail ridden a few times. My latest engine failure will hopefully be back together this weekend so it should be finally retired after that.snomofo said:I can't say I've heard of a rub through causing permanent damage to another component so I can't recommend continued riding or stop now. I've found electronics to be surprisingly resiliant to shorts but not always.
A shorted shift motor took out 3 fuses from two boxes on my wife's truck but left the control module unscathed. A shorted headlight switch on my Bronco never burned a fuse but melted the connector (due to too much load - he, he) and let the smoke out of the DRL module...
But it isn't too tough pulling the harness or checking the other areas by just yanking the bar/cowl covers.
Unplug the harness from both ends, tie a string to one end, pull it through, inspect/repair/protect, tie string and pull back through.
Be sure to check out the FAQ when getting started.
Get 'r done
SRX700guy said:The SRX is kinda just a backup sled this year. It was supposed to be retired to a dedicated speed run sled but I have blown up 2 trail sled motors this year so it has been trail ridden a few times. My latest engine failure will hopefully be back together this weekend so it should be finally retired after that.
Retired? RETIRED?
Fer shame!
To hard on the body to trail ride it anymore!!
SRX700guy said:To hard on the body to trail ride it anymore!!
Well then....... swap one of those Polaris skids and Viperize the front end...
what's the hold up man? ;>)
For now I like my Polaris's for trail riding until I win the lottery and can buy a new Yamaha APEX. I like taking the OLD SRX to the radar runs and beating up on the NEW FAST sleds!!!snomofo said:Well then....... swap one of those Polaris skids and Viperize the front end...
what's the hold up man? ;>)
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