aaronbellmx355
New member
hey guys, I just picked up a 98 srx 600, I cleaned the carbs and adjusted the floats to make sure that they were closing completely. every time this thing sits it fills the cylinders up with gas so bad that it fills up the exhaust. anyone have this issue? before, sometimes its the center and left cylinder and the last time it was just the right cylinder. I have never had any issues like this after cleaning carbs and adjusting the floats. could the fuel pump possibly be bad allowing too much fuel in when the tank is full?
I would suggest checking the needle and seats again. Doesn't take much for them to leak by.
aaronbellmx355
New member
yea everytime it floods i tear it back down and pull them out to clean everything
I think stingray is right on the money, the fuel leaks by the needle and seat, because its not sealing off the fuel, the needle needs to seat and seal off the orfice or the gas will just keep running in and drain all the lines.
you can test them by blowing jn the fuel inlet and pushing the flot up gently, it should stop the airfloww easily without alot of pressure on the float arm. Sometimes if your very gentle, you can take a drill bit and resurface the seat, by twisting the bit and putting a new edge on the seat for the needle to seat into.
they are expensive new(needle and seats).
you can test them by blowing jn the fuel inlet and pushing the flot up gently, it should stop the airfloww easily without alot of pressure on the float arm. Sometimes if your very gentle, you can take a drill bit and resurface the seat, by twisting the bit and putting a new edge on the seat for the needle to seat into.
they are expensive new(needle and seats).
aaronbellmx355
New member
i actually ordered all new needle and seats last night off the internet. I went to the yamaha dealer a few days ago and they told me they were $38 each, I found them through an online micro for $13 and change thats why i didnt buy them when I started to have this issue. it comes as an assembly needle and seet. so hopefully i will have some luck.
As others have said, the needle and seat contols fuel into the float bowl. I've never had much luck identifying a leaker with air but have found a few by closing it with the float and using a vauum pump or wrapping your lips around the fuel inlet hose to do a pressure decay test. Be careful with a vacuum pump because anything more than and inch of mercury will help seal it.
I use an inches of H2O or kPa gauge between the vacuum source and needle/seat to measure decay when at home but in a pinch just draw on the fuel line (dry of course) while lightly closing the needle/seat with the float and close the line with the tip of your tongue once you've applied some vacuum. You'll be able to "measure" the decay in vacuum with your tongue tip by the amount of suction being applied to it.
As a visual, imagine sucking fluid into a straw and than keeping the straw filled by placing your tongue over the end of the straw and maybe it will become clearer.
A visual inspection of the sealing surfaces of the needle or seat may find a nick or scratch but even with a magnifying glass can be easily overlooked.
Whether you find a leaker or not it doesn't cost anything to try and "lap" the surfaces. Well, maybe a little cost since I've found the best thing to use is the pointed polishing bits found in the specailized Dremel kit boxes at Home D. They come in different shapes, sizes and colors denoting their coursness.
Another Option is a center punch (small enough to fit within the seat opening) and some lapping compound (or maybe tooth paste) applied to the tip and twisting it to clean up the seal surface.
Admittedly I've not tried these techniques on flatslides but have fixed a few roundslides.
Finally, most of the above won't help on non-Viton tipped needles but again, what have you got to loose but some coin on some dremel bits.
I use an inches of H2O or kPa gauge between the vacuum source and needle/seat to measure decay when at home but in a pinch just draw on the fuel line (dry of course) while lightly closing the needle/seat with the float and close the line with the tip of your tongue once you've applied some vacuum. You'll be able to "measure" the decay in vacuum with your tongue tip by the amount of suction being applied to it.
As a visual, imagine sucking fluid into a straw and than keeping the straw filled by placing your tongue over the end of the straw and maybe it will become clearer.
A visual inspection of the sealing surfaces of the needle or seat may find a nick or scratch but even with a magnifying glass can be easily overlooked.
Whether you find a leaker or not it doesn't cost anything to try and "lap" the surfaces. Well, maybe a little cost since I've found the best thing to use is the pointed polishing bits found in the specailized Dremel kit boxes at Home D. They come in different shapes, sizes and colors denoting their coursness.
Another Option is a center punch (small enough to fit within the seat opening) and some lapping compound (or maybe tooth paste) applied to the tip and twisting it to clean up the seal surface.
Admittedly I've not tried these techniques on flatslides but have fixed a few roundslides.
Finally, most of the above won't help on non-Viton tipped needles but again, what have you got to loose but some coin on some dremel bits.