Help!! calling all powervalve genious's!

yamaha721sxv

yamaha721sxv

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Joined
Jan 23, 2008
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67
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33
Location
fdl wi
Okay guys, i always keep my valves spotless...(01 srx) well i just got done installing them etc. and figured I would adjust them because I never have! Well I read in the tech section etc. how to do them and understood clearly how to do it.... But my only problem is that when i tighten the adjusters back up the housings do not pull together???? All 3 cables the same way...Am I missing something or am i s.o.l because my cables stretched that bad somehow?
 

For me, they stay apart until I tighten the bolts. Are you saying that you can't get them together with the bolts?
 
If you are using the 2.5 mm allen trick, then I would say to set your servo and turn the adjusters until the housing moves. I have seen them so far out of adjustment that it takes a few turns before they do move. One question are you loosening the two top housing bolts and not the lower housing bolts correct?? Other wise the only other way they are not moving is one if your servo is not at full open or two if you have three pull through's which is not the case since you said you just cleaned them. Also just a helpful hint so you don't have to clean your pv's so much use Klotz. I clean mine once a year and they are just as clean as when I put them in, when using Klotz.
 
Yes I am using the 2.5 mm Allen head way and when I tighten the adjusters the housing is supposed to pull together with the main housing... And no I was not holding servo and idle was dropped below 900 and no pull throughs!!
 
So the servo is supposed to be fully opened as if the valves were opened? In other words the servo would turn clockwise?
 
yamaha721sxv said:
So the servo is supposed to be fully opened as if the valves were opened? In other words the servo would turn clockwise?
Click to expand...


Yes, you are adjusting the cables for slack in the fully open position but no, the servo wheel turns CCW when opening the valves. I'm guessing you have the cables wound backwards. They should end up on the bottom of the wheel.

After fiddling with the proper hole and slot the first couple times, I pull the servo, cables and valves as an assembly when cleaning so I don't have to deal with winding the cables back onto the servo. I've marked the cables, wheel slots, neary everything I could and would still need to pull out the manual and refer to the diagrams on pg. 5-33. If you leave them on the wheel theres no need but you will need to set/energize the servo before adjustment not before removal. Which IMO avoids any mis-adjustment due to the wheel turning while winding the cables back on.

Once on the bench turn the servo wheel CW to provide slack so the valves will seperate from the housings, disconnect the cable from the valve and get to cleaning.

When done cleaning all three - attach the cables to the valves, turn the servo wheel CCW to take out the slack, install the assy, turn the adjusters all the way into the servo housing to maximize the slack in the cables. This will ensure the servo will open fully when enegized

Tug on each cable with your finger to open the valves checking for any binding/sticking.
Energize the servo and mark its position relative to the housing. Adjust the gap at the cable end housing to the valve housing (the interface with two cap screws including the gasket) to 2-3.5mm.

IMO the servo is too far from the housing to allow for a precise alignment mark between the two so I turn the wheel CW closing the valves and re-energize the servo and re-check the adjustment. But I use the test plug to energize rather than idle down the valves open which avoids having to start the sled to set/energize the servo but thats just me.

Hope this helps.
 
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