yamachuck
New member
i just extended my viper to a 136.it has m10.do Ifirst tighten up the front shock or one notch on the strap to give more ski pressure.I have a brand new set of duallys on the front. pushes in corners.hot tips welcomed thanks
I have a 136" M-10 with 6" duallys as well. My first ride it pushed alot in the corners as well. Then I shortened up the the limiter strap a half step (moved up one hole on one end of the strap) and that made a big improvement. It still pushes more than a stock Viper, but I guess I can always tighten the limiter up even more if I need more ski pressure. I haven't messed around with the front shock at all... I installed it with on preload.
get rid of those crapy duallies. They are never going to corner as good a single carbide. Put darless plates on them with shaper bars, better cornering and no darting.
duallies also decrease fuel mileage.
duallies also decrease fuel mileage.
BETHEVIPER said:
What are "darless plates" and where can you buy them? I did a search on the internet and didn't find anything. Also, what brand and length of carbides do you recommend for trail riding?
yamachuck
New member
crappy duallies
I had shade tree duallies on before my new set when the sled was 121 .the sled railed and absolutely no darting. Ill take no darting over fuel milage.but it is tough to get the ski;s off the ground they weigh 5 pounds a peice.thanks for response.back to my Question.tighting the shock up is it worth the time . or go right to the strap
I had shade tree duallies on before my new set when the sled was 121 .the sled railed and absolutely no darting. Ill take no darting over fuel milage.but it is tough to get the ski;s off the ground they weigh 5 pounds a peice.thanks for response.back to my Question.tighting the shock up is it worth the time . or go right to the strap
SWEDE
New member
Tightening the shock is going to give you even less steering response.I have a 136" m-10 and run it with about 1/4" of threads showing on the shock below the adjustment collar and have found this to be the best setup overall.I currently have my strap at the 4/3 split and find this to be a good comprimise of ride and steering response.I prefer the 3/3 on the strap for turning, but the ride quality does suffer at 3/3.All the way out at 4/4 just doesn't work very well imo.
yamachuck
New member
yeh my shock is set at about a quarter also .Ill try the strap. thanks
Ditto on the 4/3. I had forgotten that was the terminology used for talking about the strap position. Also be prepared for a huge battle trying to get the top bolt and washers back on when you go to the 4/3. I struggled with it for about an hour and finally gave up. I haven't had any trouble yet by not have a bolt through the holes in the top of the strap. I am sure it will end up breaking prematurely though!
SWEDE
New member
Put some jb weld on the bottom carraige bolt for the limiter strap, this makes it much easier to deal with.I'd try and get that top bolt back on, maybe get an extra hand in there to squeeze it together when ya put the bolt through and get it started.
yamachuck
New member
well I moved one notch up on the strap [bottom].it railed like a viper should .but it felt like I was on a stock suspension.beet the crap out of me .Im getting old.soI put the strap back to the last hole .4. then lowered the bolt on the front torqe arm.in the manual shows 2 holes mine has 3. I put it in the lowest one.If that doesnt work Ill go for the 3 4split..thanks for the responses.Ill update outcome
yamachuck
New member
got it dialed in
well I got it . the 3rd whole on the rail closest to the ground was the ticket .it railed like it should and minor .very minor loss in suspension cushy.figures close to end of season I get it right.147 miles and no ill effects to my body yesterday
well I got it . the 3rd whole on the rail closest to the ground was the ticket .it railed like it should and minor .very minor loss in suspension cushy.figures close to end of season I get it right.147 miles and no ill effects to my body yesterday
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