ajmelvin55
New member
As the title says, my '01 SRX is being stubborn and constantly cutting out the ignition.
The problem all started with a bad CDI box that was replaced with a used one from a local salvage yard. After cleaning and sync'ing the carbs she starts up on the first pull and idles like a champ. However, anytime I try to rev the engine even in the slightest, the ignition gets cut and it dies. Takes a few pulls to clear the cylinders again but starts back up no problem after that.
I've been digging in quite a bit, and here's what I've done and ruled out so far.
-Kill switch is working properly and the leads are connected securely. Wiggle test didn't change the continuity at all, so I'm convinced it's not involved.
-The carb and throttle switches that ground out tested out fine on the meter, and just to be sure I supplied a constant ground to that circuit anyway with no change.
-Throttle position sensor, even though the sled can run without it, was tested and came out with good numbers.
-Stator and trigger coil both tested and showed proper resistances and voltage output all the way to the rectifier and CDI box, respectively.
-Load control relay and the blue relay (name escapes me atm) were both checked with no signs of a fault. Even ran without the load control relay as the manual says as a last resort with no change.
-Ignition coils, spark wires, and caps all checked for voltage and ohmed out. While the voltage on #2 going to the plug was a bit on the low side, it wouldn't be enough of a drop to cause the whole thing to just quit.
Using both an IgnitionMate system and a inline spark tester on #1 (note that #2 was weak, not #1), I'm confirming that the spark is being cut and causing the engine to die as though someone hit the kill switch. Another interesting note is that if the sled is started with the throttle already partially opened, it will start and hold at that RPM, usually a bit shy of 3k from where I've been testing. If I let off the throttle or increase it, the spark is again cut with any change in RPM.
Is there some kill wire or switch somewhere else I'm missing? I'm thinking this CDI box may also have an issue, but without checking every conceivable thing in the system first I'd be throwing money at it rather than fixing it.
tl;dr After ruling out the kill switch, throttle and carb switches, trigger and ignition coils, TPS, and stator, my sled dies via ignition cut on any change in RPM, but can be started on any RPM. It will idle or hold RPM without issue, though.
The problem all started with a bad CDI box that was replaced with a used one from a local salvage yard. After cleaning and sync'ing the carbs she starts up on the first pull and idles like a champ. However, anytime I try to rev the engine even in the slightest, the ignition gets cut and it dies. Takes a few pulls to clear the cylinders again but starts back up no problem after that.
I've been digging in quite a bit, and here's what I've done and ruled out so far.
-Kill switch is working properly and the leads are connected securely. Wiggle test didn't change the continuity at all, so I'm convinced it's not involved.
-The carb and throttle switches that ground out tested out fine on the meter, and just to be sure I supplied a constant ground to that circuit anyway with no change.
-Throttle position sensor, even though the sled can run without it, was tested and came out with good numbers.
-Stator and trigger coil both tested and showed proper resistances and voltage output all the way to the rectifier and CDI box, respectively.
-Load control relay and the blue relay (name escapes me atm) were both checked with no signs of a fault. Even ran without the load control relay as the manual says as a last resort with no change.
-Ignition coils, spark wires, and caps all checked for voltage and ohmed out. While the voltage on #2 going to the plug was a bit on the low side, it wouldn't be enough of a drop to cause the whole thing to just quit.
Using both an IgnitionMate system and a inline spark tester on #1 (note that #2 was weak, not #1), I'm confirming that the spark is being cut and causing the engine to die as though someone hit the kill switch. Another interesting note is that if the sled is started with the throttle already partially opened, it will start and hold at that RPM, usually a bit shy of 3k from where I've been testing. If I let off the throttle or increase it, the spark is again cut with any change in RPM.
Is there some kill wire or switch somewhere else I'm missing? I'm thinking this CDI box may also have an issue, but without checking every conceivable thing in the system first I'd be throwing money at it rather than fixing it.
tl;dr After ruling out the kill switch, throttle and carb switches, trigger and ignition coils, TPS, and stator, my sled dies via ignition cut on any change in RPM, but can be started on any RPM. It will idle or hold RPM without issue, though.
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Do a search on wire harness rub through and/or check FAQ. You might find an issue with the under engine harness with a wiggle test but I'd yank it regardless to give it a good look and also add some protection (split convolute).
Also check the footwell area and under the bar pad if you haven't already for chaffes.
I'd rule those out before proceeding.
Also check the footwell area and under the bar pad if you haven't already for chaffes.
I'd rule those out before proceeding.
bluewho
Active member
LOOSEN THE THROTLE CABLE ADJUSTER AT THE CARBS than reset idle with proper adjuster.Try it and repost please.
bluewho said:
Great point Bluewho...
Re-reading the post it sure sounds like a possible TORS/cable too tight especially since it's never mentioned.
A good lesson in overlooking the obvious.
bluewho
Active member
I hope thats his problem....he has taken the time to check so many things.
ajmelvin55
New member
Yeah, sorry to forget that, I did adjust the cable and idle when I did the carbs. I've been going through the wiring and haven't found anything as of yet. Been focusing on the wiring to and from the CDI box first and so far, nothing. I will do the throttle and idle adjustment again though just to be thorough.
ajmelvin55
New member
bluewho said:
Done and no change. Still haven't found any bad wires either. This is throwing me around in circles. I'm starting to bypass some wires one by one to be extra super sure, but so far nothing. Any other ideas? I thought it might be TORS acting up also, but that shouldn't kill it, just bog it down severely, right?
ajmelvin55 said:
I've never personally had a TORS issue but from what I've read it'll act like a rev limiter. I believe you can bypass it by disconnecting the switch and plug the two body side connectors together.
If it's an under engine harness rub through you won't see it without yanking the harness.
bluewho
Active member
The override sensor on the trottle flipper has been around since the 70s when the trottle cable is to tight it will not let the flipper articulate on the hinge and push on the sensor.It sounds like the key is being shut off and on as the sled is idleing high.Or cutting the ignition off and on.You must have a bad cdi or the wrong one if that was the start of the problems.If you were to stick your glove in between the flipper to hold it open and started the sled it will go off right away.
ajmelvin55
New member
Yeah, CDI seems to be the issue. It's cutting signal randomly to the ignition coil for #3, then cuts them all. It didn't idle high or anything of the sort either, so my best guess as to what's going on is the CDI is getting overloaded and shuts down. If I unplug the box and plug it back in, it will run and rev like normal for a little bit, but then revert to what's happening now. Unplugging it must discharge the box enough for it to run for a short period before having issues again.
ajmelvin55
New member
bluewho said:
I guess that confuses me a bit. All that does is ground the circuit, and as long as the CDI sees a ground on that line it'll continue to run. Heck, I've started the sled with the throttle partially open a few times without an issue.
ajmelvin55 said:
What he's saying is if you hold the throttle open on the opposite side of the flipper fulcrum (putting your glove between the flipper and throttle block - simulating a frozen cable), the TORS will be activated.
-Do you have a Yamaha service manual for your model year?
-Did you bypass the TORS switch?
-Did you pull the engine harness?
bluewho
Active member
Yes i will rephrase if you were to apply throttle to any 2 stroke yamaha and put something between the opening of the flipper and the block on the bars than let off the flipper so it rest against whatever you put in there being a glove or whatever the moter will cut in and out like the key was being shut off and on with a higher than normal idle.You can do it with the moter running or shut off and try it dosent mater.
ajmelvin55
New member
bluewho said:
Ah, yeah, that makes more sense. I did pull the harness with nothing mentionable. I've been using the 2000 manual as I can't find a 2001 anywhere. As far as bypassing TORS, I supplied constant ground to the pin that gets the ground from the carb switch/throttle lever to give it the idea everything was in the clear. If you have something else in mind, though, let me know. So far though everything is pointing to the CDI. Especially the unplug and reconnect result, that really is convincing me.
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srxmountain141
New member
i have same issue
hello, i have same issue i am taking motor out today , i ride with a guy who owns a yamaha shop he says check wiring harness under motor even tho it might not be worn from rubbing its also a great spot for mice to make nests and chew on the wires. I will let you know how i make out
hello, i have same issue i am taking motor out today , i ride with a guy who owns a yamaha shop he says check wiring harness under motor even tho it might not be worn from rubbing its also a great spot for mice to make nests and chew on the wires. I will let you know how i make out
bluewho
Active member
Ya ya pull the moter good idea.
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TORS will not kill the motor, just limit rpms. Sounds more like a harness grounding out issue and no you don't have to pull the engine to get at the harness.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
srxmountain141 said:
NO NEED TO PULL THE MOTOR! pull pipes, air box and carbs. Unplug harness near hood hinges. Tie a string or rope to harness and pull from rear of engine. Its a bear getting to the clips under motor but ALOT easier than alinging engine/clutches. Once youve gotten a good look at harness use rope and pull back under. Plenty of time this summer to pull engine,clean and polish evrything. This guy you ride with...is he your freind?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
ajmelvin55 said:
What pointed to CDI as original problem? Did you pull the recoil and take a peak in there or just test from plug ins? Reason I am asking is I am having similar but different problems with 99, Refer to that thread for pics of what I found.
srxmountain141
New member
cutting out
checked out wiring harness yesterday , see no rubs i wanted to clean hay and rest of mice nest under thats why i took it out , i just bought sled this year been looking for one for a while it has 500 miles on it looks legit. im going to do some testing today, this sled you could start up every day ride about ten miles then it starts cutting out seems after something is getting hot,there was a little rust i sanded off the flywheel magnets while i was up in maine but no change
checked out wiring harness yesterday , see no rubs i wanted to clean hay and rest of mice nest under thats why i took it out , i just bought sled this year been looking for one for a while it has 500 miles on it looks legit. im going to do some testing today, this sled you could start up every day ride about ten miles then it starts cutting out seems after something is getting hot,there was a little rust i sanded off the flywheel magnets while i was up in maine but no change