FRA setting..what's the best for an SRX

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

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I have always had my FRA settings set to the soft position on both my sleds.I see that factory setting is usually in the middle.Yet some guys use the harder setting and pull straps all the way up.My straps are basically in stock setting..Front suspension shock has 0 preload..the rear I have not touched but should be in stock setting also.Running my transfer at 50/50 also.Whay would an ideal setup be to maximize your traction at launch?I know you don't really want your skis up that much either.My skis were lifting like 1 to 2 feet at launch the other day and I was losing control and even launching to the side and had to let go of throttle.Tonight I set transfer at 50/50 with me sitting on it..but again how does the FRA really play into this..
 

This is just from my personal experience of playing w/ the FRA settings but, the softer the setting the less "possible" transfer you will get. Meaning, when I put it on soft there was more gap on the bottom of the transfer rods. When I put it on hard, there was no lower gap at all. I dont think you want the front shock at 0 pre-load for a good launch, thats for a good trail ride.
 
on soft setting and no one on the sled..I have no space on the bottom of my transfer rods now.When I sit on it I set it for 50/50 gap.Wander if I should go back to stock setting in the middle and see what gives..Most guys leave there front suspension shock at 0 preload.
 

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Isn't that the setting you want? 50/50 gap when you are sitting on the sled. I have been through countless set-ups over the last 10yrs with my SRX! I found that when i went to the 136" and longtravel the sled it became quite tricky to get the perfect all-around set up. As we speak I just came off last weekend with a new set-up and i am going to tweek it again for this weekend. Trail conditions play a big factor, in my opinion, on the your set up.
 
My set up is 0 preload on the center, Then adjust the prelaod in the rear shock for 50/50 gap. My FRA is on the bottom or the stiffest setting. Limmiters are only tightened up 3/4in. This is a fully rebuilt proaction W/ ohlins I get 0 ski lift W/ some track spin off the line but I like to keep my skies on the ground for trail riding. Having a fully functioning rebuilt proaction is a night and day difference in handling and correct transfer.
 
The ride isn't bad the shocks are rebuilt re-valved for my riding weight and style. As far as the gap you want to set that by measuring the total gap (top and bottom) and setting the total gap to what you want for transfer then setting the gap 50/50 by adjusting your preload in the rear shock. It sounds like you need a little less gap total for less transfer.
 
take you sled into the garage and place a car jack under the front in between the radius rods start to jack the sled up until the skis start to just lift off the ground, look back at the front of your skid...is it touching at the front rail or lifted in the air?

if still touching i would have to say your limiter straps are to long.

now your on the gas and the sled will rock back into the rear gap your skis may be about a inch off the ground and your sled will move forward instead of wasting energy to lift skis into the air.

Set your sled up with some preload on the front skid shock not at zero, this will help balance the sled overall, in the yamaha tuning manual they specifically talk about trade offs, either better ride or better traction for drags, this is why you set your sled to ride awesome and the come to a lake back the nuts off 3/8" to 1/2" on the rods for traction for drags for more gap less coupling..you want tight coupling on the trails......good luck
 
well I took the SRX out today with my 8bu-10 setup.Good pulling and out of the hole to 8200 and then she climbs slowly.Don't have a long enought path to try on today,but had up to 95 in the farmers field slightly packed.It was still pulling like mad.Tach in between 82 and 8500 ..so I am glad..just hard to see at that speed in bumpy field.
Now traction::Of course with 50/50 on the rods..piunch it and skis still jump up and sled digs a hole and shoot me off line.So I turned down the rods by 4 turns as I kept testing,less gap on top now.Seems to be better at launch.Even with 120 studs on this 1 inch track..I am spinning for about 100 feet no problem...and then she pulls.Sounds good off the line...engine turning 8200 right out of the hole..holds it and then will start to climb.So my clutching looks great,traction is another thing.I am on a packed trail and the SRX will still spin like mad..this is normal.Now I place my body weight more over the gas tank and pin it.Sled stays straight at launch..skis lift about 6 inches yet and rpm is 8200 and then goes up[ slowly.No over reving going on..this isgood.Wish I can find a long stretch.On the weekend when we ride down to the River..will have achance,but temps warm up to about 0 C..so not gonna be that good.Today was about -17 C,a nice cold day and running strong..no hiccups at all.Love it my DCS never kicks on,plkugs are a beautiful cardboard brown color... ;)!
Maybe I will have to keep cranking down the rods.Even with 6 inch lift..find it is to much to get a nice launch..need then ski's a little lower yet... :o|
 
Coldplay97 said:
take you sled into the garage and place a car jack under the front in between the radius rods start to jack the sled up until the skis start to just lift off the ground, look back at the front of your skid...is it touching at the front rail or lifted in the air?

if still touching i would have to say your limiter straps are to long.

now your on the gas and the sled will rock back into the rear gap your skis may be about a inch off the ground and your sled will move forward instead of wasting energy to lift skis into the air.

Set your sled up with some preload on the front skid shock not at zero, this will help balance the sled overall, in the yamaha tuning manual they specifically talk about trade offs, either better ride or better traction for drags, this is why you set your sled to ride awesome and the come to a lake back the nuts off 3/8" to 1/2" on the rods for traction for drags for more gap less coupling..you want tight coupling on the trails......good luck
Click to expand...
thanks for the info here,I will do this little test... ;)!
 
I am trying your little trick here and my front rail/track is on the floor.I want to tighten limiters but don't have enough thread left..so I removed the straps and drilled new holes 1 inch up from the others and this will shorten strap I hope enough so I can now tighten the straps to pull rails up a bit..
 
I put FRA in center position and as of now my transfer gap is 50/50 with me on it..good so far,just have to eliminate the rocking effect in the middle where rails hang to low.
 
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