Dirty Rotten T.O.R.S....

R

ryanwillden

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Sep 14, 2003
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I have a 93 V-max 4 and the guy I bought it from had the Tors Bypassed. I've heard some pretty conflicting stuff about the TORS. For instance, I heard that the sled runs better with the TORS connected. I've also heard that with the riding that I do (Mountain/Hill Climbing) that the TORS is pretty much a waste of time anyway.
Is there any truth to either of these statements? If it does run better with the tors connected, how do I fix it?
By the way, the Tors is currently bypassed at the Carbs. If it's okay to bypass it, is it better to bypass it closer to the CDI? Which wires do I jumper together???

Thanks
 

tors

it will not effect how your sled runs unless it's malfunctioning, it's a safety feature to keep your engine from running wide open when something gets broken or stuck, like a throttle cable, basically a throttle override switch, the two wires that come from under the idle adjust screw are the ones, I would keep it functional, specially for hillclimbin.
 
For powder riding, it's aweful easy to have the slides freeze up during wfo riding. Imagine your reaction when you're about to turn downhill, only to have the throttle stick wfo! Now you're heading toward 130mph with trees and rocks to slow you down...

the above post is correct, it doesn't effect the running at all. Sometimes with enough miles, the switches in the throttle block will not make good contact all the time. Replace, or recanoider them. Keep it working!
 
If you are going to by-pass the TORS install a tether switch on, could save your life and your sled.
 
By-passing the TORS is a dumb thing to do without a tether, unless you are into watching your sled run WOT without you!

I have seen it save a sled few times.
 
SRXdude said:
By-passing the TORS is a dumb thing to do
Click to expand...

Then maybe you could offer instruction on how to fix it? I'd really appreciate any ideas or suggestions...
 
Certainly!

Basically what the TORS system does is prevent the carbs from being opened if someone is not pushing on the handlebar throttle lever.

Grab hold of the throttle lever on the handlebar and press in slowly. See how the front (towards nose of sled) of the lever pivots to the left? This contacts a switch (I dont know if it closes or opens) and changes the continuity in the circuit. If this condition is present and the switch on the carbs is activated, then the CDI knows that the throttle is being controlled by the throttle lever.

I have sometimes grabbed the handlebar lever wrong (big gloves contribute to this) and prevented the lever from pivoting. The TORS will activate!

A good test to do once in a while is prevent the lever from pivoting while pressing on the throttle lever. The R's should increase and then the sled start to misfire. This is the TORS system working.

If the correct condition on the handle bars is not seen by the CDI when the carb switch position is changed, then the CDI limits the RPM to below engagement speed.

Connect up the wires in the TORS circuit and push on the throttle lever. There should be enough slack in the throttle cable, allowing the lever to pivot and change the handlebar switch before the carbs begin to open. If that is not the case, adjust the throttle cable by losening the locknut on the carb rack and turning the barrel clockwise. This will shorten the cable and provide a little more slack. Check to make sure you still get WOT before or just when the lever contacts the bar. If the switches are functioning properly, then the system will work. I have seen a few Cats that get bad carb switches, but not yet on a Yamaha (however, it happens).

Let me know if this makes sense. Sorry for the none technical post, but I didnt have time to go to the garage and get the book to determine if the circuit is open or closed for a "go" condtion.

I am sure others may have some suggestions also.

SRXdude
 
Wow! Thanks SRXDUDE. That's exactly what I need. That's the best description I've read so far.
Thanks again,
Ryan
 
I hope that helps.

One correction, the TORS system does not prevent the carb slides from opening (I was typing too fast), it just limits the RPMs.
 
when you are idling the T.O.R.S is an open curcuit which means switch is not making contact.When you push the throttle the switch closes providing a loop to your CDI.
This is an important safety feature of the sled.
Testing is easy with a multimeter (ohm meter) Connect the meter to the 2 wires directly on the switch, at this point you will measure infinity resistance when you push the throttle your meter should read 0 ohms ( no resistance) if this does not happen CHANGE the switch. If the switch works it does not afffect the operation of the sled at all.
 
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