54/42 and 56/42 with heel clickers

Stephfg

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Joined
Jan 20, 2009
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335
Location
Timmins Ontario
I'm wondering if anyone has tried 54/42 or 56/42 helixes on an SRX with heel clickers? My friend lent these "re-cut" yamaha helixes to me but the heel clicker info seems to say not to bother with dual angle helixes. I'm just getting the HCs in now. I also have my stock helix and a Bender 9760 (49/45). the clutching chart doesn't seem to have anything in those angles. I have red and green secondary springs.
 
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A bit more info: my riding style is long distance trail, fast and a bit more aggressive on shorter rides. With some of the straight, long trails around here, I don't want to sacrifice much top end.
 
im running hc in my 01. lots of shoulder weight and lots of tip weight nothing in the center. this gives it good back shift. so when you go into a corner and come out there is still lots of snap to come out with. awesome out of the hole and good on top end dont really lose much in the mid range. secondary im running a 53/43 with a green spring. but my secondary is getting a little warm meaning there might be some belt slippage so might move up to a silver.

the secondary you want the softest spring you can without any heat or slippage. i wanna try like a 49/39 or something like that. u dont need the helix that steep anymore on the bottom. the hc make up for that. and usually the lower the number on the top end you should see some good speeds but to an extent. its all test test test!
 
I decided to go with my stock 47 degree helix with red spring wrapped at 70. I got the heel clickers installed and got it to 8450ish rpm. Using the recommended red primary spring, I'm only using one 3.3 grams in the tip (center empty). I've got lots of heel weight to keep engagement down (approx 4300).

I tested on a small lake (1/2 mile run), hard packed but with some loose windblown snow on top. I did 4 runs with each set up (started heavy and removed weight). The primary was warmer than usual, especially the fixed sheave. I could keep my hand on it, but it was quite warm. So I guess I'm getting belt slippage on the primary. I also marked the primary and the belt only got to 1/2" to 5/8" from the top.

If I wrap my spring at 60, that would help with the heat on the primary, but would also drop the rpm, right? So then I'd have to remove more tip weight, and it doesn't seem to make sense to me that I'd need less than 3.3 grams in the tip (not to mention that I'd have to find other lighter bolts). Does this make sense? I've read Aaen's book at least three times, but sometimes it's good to bounce ideas off of others!

One things for sure: it doesn't take me too long to pop the clutch and change the weights now! Once it's in my clutch compression tool, I use a socket on my cordless drill to remove and install the weight and cover bolts.
 


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