Hot clutches

bigreis

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Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
115
Age
49
Location
Central MN
Here is the story:

136" M-10 with a 1.25" Ripsaw. 22/38 gearing. SLP tripple pipes. 6" duallies. 8EK's with with 17.2 mm rivets in both holes, stock springs and helix. ATACC set to come on at -20F with 165 mains, 47.5 pilots and clips set at 4 on mag and center, PTO at 3.5. Fuel screws set at 1 3/4. Max RPM is 8900, engagement is about 3800. Brand new 8DN belt.

Today it was about 25F, ran about 30 miles on the trail (25 - 40 mph). I stopped several times to check plugs and clutch temps. Plugs looked good, but clutches were really hot. I could hold my hand on the primary for about 10 seconds but the secondary was really hot... could only touch it for about 5 seconds. Prior to adding the pipes the cluches were always cold to slightly warm are most.

Looking for advice at to what I need to change to bring the clutch temps down (and hopefully increase fuel economy). My mileage sucks right now (5 -6 mpg) and I am sure it has to do with the clutching. It doesnt have the arm stretching feeling that I have heard about after adding the pipes until approx. 40 -50 mph. Before that it seems like the motor is winding up but not much is happening in terms of acceleration.
 

the duallies that my buds had on there apex gt's, made the clutches get real hot and made them lose 2mpg and a few mph on top end. one of them, actually wore a belly in the movable sheave from them carbides. also, i would suggest 21/38 gearing w/them pipes.

forgot it only took my 3 buds 1 trip w/them carbides, to switch to snow trackers. do you have the stock carbides to try and just see if that helps your mileage and lower clutch temps?
 
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9300 miles on the clock... the stock runners are long gone! The duallies are pretty much brand new. It handles great, but for what I am paying at the pump for gas, I am thinking the duallies need to go ASAP. What do you guys recommend for carbide lenght/brands?

Also, considering that the clutch springs haven't been replaced in 9000 miles, could that be contributing to my trouble?

I do have a 21 tooth top gear that I just bought to see if that helps improve the performance... not looking forward to putting it in though!
 
Is there a formula for calculating the proper gearing? I have a similar set up to bigreis. '02 Viper stretched to 144 and SLP pipes. I am assuming that the gearing is still original 22/38 (my speedo is off by 20MPH at top end compared to GPS). So when this was stretched to a 144, what is the proper gear ratio that should be on the sled?
 
dcfjef said:
Is there a formula for calculating the proper gearing? I have a similar set up to bigreis. '02 Viper stretched to 144 and SLP pipes. I am assuming that the gearing is still original 22/38 (my speedo is off by 20MPH at top end compared to GPS). So when this was stretched to a 144, what is the proper gear ratio that should be on the sled?

yeah, did you change the track drivers, cause simply going to a longer track and leaving drivers stock and gears the same, won't change how far off the speedo is from actual. sounds like track drivers may have been changed.
 
Sorry bigreis, didn't mean to steal your post for your clutches getting hot.

Not sure what driver is on there. I bought the sled the way it is and have not had the gear box apart to see what gears it has in it.
 
dcfjef said:
Sorry bigreis, didn't mean to steal your post for your clutches getting hot.

No worries! Sounds like we are both in search of the same info!
 
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