I installed new sheaves on my primary and noticed the spring on each end is worn flat. Is it time to replace or can it finsh out the season? I was out yesterday for a 30 min run to check plugs and etc. and noticed primary was extremly hot. How hot are they suppose to get? thanks for any help
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
springs are flat on ends..normal..Sheaves should not be hot..your clutches will get fatiqued over time.Your belt is slipping..either springs are shot or not enough weight in primary and wrong spring/wrap in secondary..I ran wot on the river here and a lot of hard launches and stoppped to check..my clutches were both cool to the touch.If you can burn your fingers while touching them for about 5 seconds..they are To HOT!!
thanks for the help i haven't done anything to the clutchs except change the sheaves and it has almost 9000k on them. I guess it's time for a re-build. I'll get all new clutch components. How can i tell if the belt is slipping? or is it just by how hot the clutch is? what does wot stand for i have seen that appreviation now a few times. If i go with a different setup in my primary and secondary do i have to change my jetting and carb setup. Right now their all stock. i just had to replace the sheaves because of cracks do you think this is the cause, the clutch getting to hot? thanks for the help bluemonster.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
if the sheaves don't clamp the belt tight enough..belt slips and creates heat on sheaves and belt.Best thing is to put everything back to stock specs first and then go from there.
wot......wide open throttle
check belts specs also..if belt is really shiny on the sides..it will slip more.You can scrub your belt with a coarse scrub pad/bristle brush in hot soapy water,rinse and dry.You can also roughen up your clutch sheaves with green scrub pads and clean oiff.Check your center to center clutch specs and off set also.
wot......wide open throttle
check belts specs also..if belt is really shiny on the sides..it will slip more.You can scrub your belt with a coarse scrub pad/bristle brush in hot soapy water,rinse and dry.You can also roughen up your clutch sheaves with green scrub pads and clean oiff.Check your center to center clutch specs and off set also.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
keep stock jetting,but make sure they are cleaned out good.
srx2fast said:
My guess is the cracked sheaves were the effect not the cause. In other words, heat from xxxxx (misalignment, worn pieces in the primary/secondary) will end up cracking the new sheaves in time. Did you replace the movable sheave bushing (and cover bushing) when you changed the sheaves?
I've used nothing but OEM belts so I can't speak from experience, but perhaps the non-OEM belt is the cause of the heat?
I didn't replace any bushings, i bought the sheaves used so just cleaned them up and transvered the weights and rollers from the one in my sled to the used bought one and installed. i guess i should just go and get the proper tools then align everything up. i think i'll just run oem too. Alot of guys are saying just run oem, so oem it is. The belt looks dull and the sheaves are roughed up from cleaning with pad. i only have another month maybe of riding here in southern ontario so hopefully this will get me throw the season and i will tear down the sled over the summer. How are the comet clutch's any complaints from anyone, have you guys heard anything? thanks for your help!!
If you bought the sheaves used, they really were not "new, " only new to you. I think these guys are saying you should go to the fiche and order all new clutch parts, so you have all new primary and secondary clutches/ components (a lot of $$) after alot of miles on sled. Yours has 9000 miles, right? Or just live with hot belts and burning through belts more often. It's a trade off/ $$ decision on how well you want u'r sled to work and how much $$ you want to put into u'r sled....