Turbo50Mike
New member
Excuse my ignorance, 
but I got this sled used (2001 SXR700), and maybe someone can give me some insight on how this works, and which way to adjust for different conditions.
Snowmobiles are new to me - But I am not an idiot...I drag race cars, road-race motorcycles, and have a pretty good working knowledge of every mechanical component with the exception of a CVT.
TIA,
MJB
but I got this sled used (2001 SXR700), and maybe someone can give me some insight on how this works, and which way to adjust for different conditions.Snowmobiles are new to me - But I am not an idiot...I drag race cars, road-race motorcycles, and have a pretty good working knowledge of every mechanical component with the exception of a CVT.
TIA,
MJB
I can tell you that a High Tech Roller for your secondary.....but that dont help much....I have never used one but there is someone on the site that has....good luck
KbxSrx
New member
- Joined
- May 20, 2003
- Messages
- 192
- Age
- 57
hitech er
thats is the second best low buck thing you can do to your sled, the first is a cold air kit. If you are not sure how to set it up, give Duane a call at http://www.hitechperformance.com/www/hitechperformance/contact.htm
He is a wonderful guy, very helpful, and if you have the wrong helix in it, he will send you one for free, just exchange. Your ER is worth about 500.00, just get the setup from Duane.
thats is the second best low buck thing you can do to your sled, the first is a cold air kit. If you are not sure how to set it up, give Duane a call at http://www.hitechperformance.com/www/hitechperformance/contact.htm
He is a wonderful guy, very helpful, and if you have the wrong helix in it, he will send you one for free, just exchange. Your ER is worth about 500.00, just get the setup from Duane.
secondary..
Mike, I am going to assume you know how a cvt works(If not - use the 10 speed theory--small ring in front and big in back is 1st gear---the big in front and amll in rear is 10th gear--The sweet part is the million combos in between that the cvt offers)You probaly know this, but if not you dont need to nask...
I believe your real question is "that red thing" I have no experience with that particular model. However, I believe that is an adjutable Helix design.. It really allows you to adjust the secondary spring load.... Increase preload= faster back shift into corners for example, (rides like a motocross bike)but if you turn it up to much you can not overcome the spring force limiting your top speed(cant get to tenth gear)...pick your poison--or adjust by loosening the three nuts on trail day or lake day...But either way have fun...
Same old rule - Right is tight(increase preload)
The bad part of all of this is I am only sharing what I THINK that red thing is, but no personal experience. If you plan on tuning alot I would go back to stock configuration, because most people can set you up with a 99% perfect set up by changing springs & Helix---Look to Mr. Sled or Turk for that part. (total cost say 150 bucks +/-)
I have seen sleds underpowered by 20 hp win ---CLUTCHING!!!
Congrats on the newest toy..
Mike, I am going to assume you know how a cvt works(If not - use the 10 speed theory--small ring in front and big in back is 1st gear---the big in front and amll in rear is 10th gear--The sweet part is the million combos in between that the cvt offers)You probaly know this, but if not you dont need to nask...
I believe your real question is "that red thing" I have no experience with that particular model. However, I believe that is an adjutable Helix design.. It really allows you to adjust the secondary spring load.... Increase preload= faster back shift into corners for example, (rides like a motocross bike)but if you turn it up to much you can not overcome the spring force limiting your top speed(cant get to tenth gear)...pick your poison--or adjust by loosening the three nuts on trail day or lake day...But either way have fun...
Same old rule - Right is tight(increase preload)
The bad part of all of this is I am only sharing what I THINK that red thing is, but no personal experience. If you plan on tuning alot I would go back to stock configuration, because most people can set you up with a 99% perfect set up by changing springs & Helix---Look to Mr. Sled or Turk for that part. (total cost say 150 bucks +/-)
I have seen sleds underpowered by 20 hp win ---CLUTCHING!!!
Congrats on the newest toy..
Turbo50Mike
New member
Thanks for all your help..I will get in touch with Duane...
And Bleu- Good explaination, thanks..I do understand the 10-speed theory, I just don't know what the CVT's want - I.e. What makes them work better, what to do, what not to do, etc...
I can rebuild my automatic transmission in my race car in about 40 minutes, but I wouldn't know where to start turning nuts and bolts on the CVT.
Thanks...
MJB
And Bleu- Good explaination, thanks..I do understand the 10-speed theory, I just don't know what the CVT's want - I.e. What makes them work better, what to do, what not to do, etc...
I can rebuild my automatic transmission in my race car in about 40 minutes, but I wouldn't know where to start turning nuts and bolts on the CVT.
Thanks...
MJB
Turbo50Mike
New member
Oh, by the way...When I got the sled, the guy gave me a "Bender" clutch (I think that's what he called it). It's still in the box. Should I look into putting that thing on, or should I just ride it?
MJB
MJB
add a turbo Mike...
The clutchin depends on the machine, HP and conditions etc etc etc...
BUT - If this is a stock sled - check out the tech page under clutching
The primary(front) has spring, and 3 weights, 3 rollers, and rivets that are installed in the weights (the rivets allow adjustment to force)more hp = more weight as a VERY general rule, and the spring will effect the initial engagememt as well a force---But long of the long
The secondary has a spring and Helix you can tune with (51/43 for example is a dual stage helix---)
If this is a stock 700sxr you want to be around 8300 rpms a t full shift--more is not more..start with some one elses base line, and tinker, but stay around that 82-8300(most in stock configuration will over rev)
All else fails add your turbos--but that makes the clutching VERY difficult on a 2 stroke--Trust me--If you do let her warm up!!!
Good luck
PS - I will call you if i spit a trans--not a clue
The clutchin depends on the machine, HP and conditions etc etc etc...
BUT - If this is a stock sled - check out the tech page under clutching
The primary(front) has spring, and 3 weights, 3 rollers, and rivets that are installed in the weights (the rivets allow adjustment to force)more hp = more weight as a VERY general rule, and the spring will effect the initial engagememt as well a force---But long of the long
The secondary has a spring and Helix you can tune with (51/43 for example is a dual stage helix---)
If this is a stock 700sxr you want to be around 8300 rpms a t full shift--more is not more..start with some one elses base line, and tinker, but stay around that 82-8300(most in stock configuration will over rev)
All else fails add your turbos--but that makes the clutching VERY difficult on a 2 stroke--Trust me--If you do let her warm up!!!
Good luck
PS - I will call you if i spit a trans--not a clue
Bender stuff...
Well - I am not sure what Bender stuff he gave you(Primary or secondary--roller rooster, or a helix for your secondary...
In my opinion Bender does good things with engines, pipes, and TURBOS, but clutching could be better. Dont throw it, but dont count on it because it says racing..(You can throw the primary spring if it is purple)
Fingers are cramping,
John
Well - I am not sure what Bender stuff he gave you(Primary or secondary--roller rooster, or a helix for your secondary...
In my opinion Bender does good things with engines, pipes, and TURBOS, but clutching could be better. Dont throw it, but dont count on it because it says racing..(You can throw the primary spring if it is purple)
Fingers are cramping,
John
SECONDARY
Mike,
If you look 2 below your original posting you will see some info on secondary clutches--- A few folks swear by your "HiTECH" Set up---I would drop them a message
Let the fun begin..
Mike,
If you look 2 below your original posting you will see some info on secondary clutches--- A few folks swear by your "HiTECH" Set up---I would drop them a message
Let the fun begin..
intoodeep
New member
From what I can see in the picture, time for a good clutch face cleaning. I clean mine after every ride. Takes like 20 mins to clean faces and blow out dust. You need a good surface to grab the belt for efficient clutching. In my experience you can do all the clutch tuning changes you want and it won't make much diff with a slippery clutch face.
Turbo50Mike
New member
Ok. Should I just use some Brake-Kleen? Or maybe a light sandpaper or emory cloth?
MJB
MJB
sxr700
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2003
- Messages
- 54
hot soapy water, with a good degreaser in it. scrub it down with a shotch brite pad . rinse and blow dry. then sand the belt and clutch surface with a fine sand paper.. some guys fire up the sled without the belt and run the sandpaper up and down the clutch sheves with there hand... works good bu be careful ..
clean primary..
I would use a light sand paper and clean up/cross hatch, BUT I OULD NEVER start the engine to do this---unless you have 3 hands
I wouldnt say I am a sfety nut, but the risk vs reward are not even close.
I would use a light sand paper and clean up/cross hatch, BUT I OULD NEVER start the engine to do this---unless you have 3 hands
I wouldnt say I am a sfety nut, but the risk vs reward are not even close.
KbxSrx
New member
- Joined
- May 20, 2003
- Messages
- 192
- Age
- 57
hitech er
(from a post below)
I believe your real question is "that red thing" I have no experience with that particular model. However, I believe that is an adjutable Helix design.. It really allows you to adjust the secondary spring load.... Increase preload= faster back shift into corners for example, (rides like a motocross bike)but if you turn it up to much you can not overcome the spring force....
This is WRONG> the red unit is the encapsulated roller, there is not an adjustable helix. This guy may know a lot about sledding, but all this info is speculation. You can move the end cap, yes, but all this is, is winding the spring for more or less pressure, not adjustable helix. RIDE IT, play a little with the secondary, if you dont like it I will buy it off you, they are awesome, I would take as many as I can find, they never last more than a day on ebay when I list them. DO NOT REMOVE THIS CLUTCH, you will hate yourself in the morning. I am speaking from experience, they work. The bst thing you can do, is pull it off, find out which helix is in, call Duane at Hitech, and ask if it is the correct one for your application.
(from a post below)
I believe your real question is "that red thing" I have no experience with that particular model. However, I believe that is an adjutable Helix design.. It really allows you to adjust the secondary spring load.... Increase preload= faster back shift into corners for example, (rides like a motocross bike)but if you turn it up to much you can not overcome the spring force....
This is WRONG> the red unit is the encapsulated roller, there is not an adjustable helix. This guy may know a lot about sledding, but all this info is speculation. You can move the end cap, yes, but all this is, is winding the spring for more or less pressure, not adjustable helix. RIDE IT, play a little with the secondary, if you dont like it I will buy it off you, they are awesome, I would take as many as I can find, they never last more than a day on ebay when I list them. DO NOT REMOVE THIS CLUTCH, you will hate yourself in the morning. I am speaking from experience, they work. The bst thing you can do, is pull it off, find out which helix is in, call Duane at Hitech, and ask if it is the correct one for your application.