hunter78
New member
I have heard that light weight trailing arms are no good because of there durability. I have 2 different MM 700's. I would like to lighten the front end up. Also can you get the sway bar out of the front end without cutting it off? I read alot about cutting off. Just don't want to do that. If I ever sell the sled I want to put it back to stock. Would love to hear of real life experiences. Pros and cons.
srxhair
New member
You can get them out. I looked at how much work it was and how much they are on ebay then cut mine out. It weighed 4lbs.
cutting is the quickest way. if you opt for a full removal, there are a few rivets that will kick your butt.
basically 4 rivets per side that hold a bracket containing two plastic pieces per side that the sway bar rides against. all this needs to be removed to pull the bar. you can easily get to half the rivets, the rest seem impossible. seems as though all the body plastic was installed after the the bar, which makes the job challenging. not worth the effort in my opinion.
once removed, you are left with two holes that need to be filled to eliminate snow getting in. i make block offs from plexi glass and rivet back in place with the stock brackets.
as for durability of aftermarket arms, i have had good luck with chromollytubes, bad luck with aluminum tubes. expensive for sure, weight savings hardly worth the cost, but they look cool.
better money would be spent on power increasing mods or replacing the rear skid.
if you opt for a cut and look for a replacement on ebay or elsewhere, you need a bar from a mtn sled due to the narrower ski stance.
basically 4 rivets per side that hold a bracket containing two plastic pieces per side that the sway bar rides against. all this needs to be removed to pull the bar. you can easily get to half the rivets, the rest seem impossible. seems as though all the body plastic was installed after the the bar, which makes the job challenging. not worth the effort in my opinion.
once removed, you are left with two holes that need to be filled to eliminate snow getting in. i make block offs from plexi glass and rivet back in place with the stock brackets.
as for durability of aftermarket arms, i have had good luck with chromollytubes, bad luck with aluminum tubes. expensive for sure, weight savings hardly worth the cost, but they look cool.
better money would be spent on power increasing mods or replacing the rear skid.
if you opt for a cut and look for a replacement on ebay or elsewhere, you need a bar from a mtn sled due to the narrower ski stance.
hunter78
New member
Thanks for the info. The info on the trailing arms is great. I would rather get a lighter skid. I had mine out to replace the drive shaft bearings. I couldn't believe that it was that heavy. Is there a good replacement skid that won't require me to sell my organs to buy. If I understood you right. I would be able to get the sway bar out without cutting it. By the looks of it. It would be a pain. I just want to have the option to be able to put it back in.
if you arent trying to remove it as a weight saving, but more so to increase the ability to sidehill easier, simply unbolt one side from the dogbone it mounts to.
add a zip tie loosely to keep it from rattling too much.
as for the skid, look around for any mtn skid from the other manufactures, like cat or polaris. under $300 is the norm. some redrilling of your tunnel and some bracket and spacer fabrication will required. you will need the mounting point dimensions from the sled it came out of and you will have to figure in the track length for compatability, or spring for a new track as well.
if your still running the oem 141, its pretty much a heavy piece of junk as well. good time to think 144, 151, or more. think camo extreme.
add a zip tie loosely to keep it from rattling too much.
as for the skid, look around for any mtn skid from the other manufactures, like cat or polaris. under $300 is the norm. some redrilling of your tunnel and some bracket and spacer fabrication will required. you will need the mounting point dimensions from the sled it came out of and you will have to figure in the track length for compatability, or spring for a new track as well.
if your still running the oem 141, its pretty much a heavy piece of junk as well. good time to think 144, 151, or more. think camo extreme.
bolin22
New member
I Have Had Pretty Darn Good Luck With The Fabcraft Aluminum Arms. The Tubes Are Much Beefier Than The Mpi Or Others That I Have Seen.
ford428cj
New member
bolin22 said:
I totally agree! I run a Fabcraft front end on mine, to include radius rods. They are damn tough and well worth the money to me. I couldnt be any more happier with my sled right now. Sidehilling is waaaaay easer without a swaybar and light up the front end, I'm sure it helps in performance.
i know cbperformance aluminum kit is pretty damn tough. crewcheif and others can attest to how hard my brother drives his sled and he never bent or broke a trailing arm.