99 Vmax 700 Deluxe Tachometer Quit

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mcuhan

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Removed the electric start components from my 1999 Vmax 700 deluxe and now the tachometer doesn't work. I'm assuming this has something to do with removing the e-start, battery or ground.

Can I rewire the tach to work without the electric start?

Thanks
Matt
 

I'm wondering the same thing...... I pulled everything under the hood from a 600 triple and put it in my XTC, the old tach reved to the moon. I baught the original Tach that went with my motor and wiring and now I have nothing!!!

the only difference is electric start and reverse on the doner sled.....
 
trying to resurrect this thread to help both of us out!!!

I tried running a ground wire from one of the 3 black/yellow stripe wire on the back of the tach to many different points on the motor and chassis..... tried head bolts, case bolts, and a few places on the chassis.....

what wire on the tach is ground???

someone please help!!!! I'm pulling my hair out with this!!!!

thanks,

STORMS
 
could be a broken wire somewhere.When I bought my SRX..the tach didn't work.So I went to the CDI(forgot what color wirw is the tach lead) and found the wire.Seems like the other owner stripped back a little of the plastic on the wire before as he was trying something.I decided to run a loose wire from that wire all the way back to the tach.Stripped a wire there also and just wrapped the wire around it.So in other words I did a jumper from the CDI to tach.Started up the sled and the tach worked.So this told me bad wire somewhere.I then ran this new wire from the cdi to tach properly so it wouldn't get ripped or caught and used some loom covering in places.You can try this experiment first to see if the tach runs again..if so..then wire broken somewhere.Don't know what color the wire coming from CDI to tach is..probably will find that in the manual in the schematic wiring diagrams.Good luck there storms....
 
This should be an easy fix as the electric start only plugs into 2 places on the sled.
1)The wire for the starter selonoid gets plaugged into a black 3-prong plug(triangle shaped) by the right side of the carbs. This just gets unplugged and capped off.
2)Behind your left knee there is a connection for a fuse box. You need to remove the fuse box and the wire that is plugged into it. When you do this, you will notice 2 black plugs (1 male/1 female, square, 4 wires i think), these need to be plugged into each other.
That's all there is to hooking up or unhooking electric start. My guess is the 2 plugs need to be plugged back together! I will go out now and take a picture to show the plugs.
Here is a picture of the 2 connections that need to be plugged into each other by left knee.
If any of you have this fuse box and wire that you want to get rid of let me know, I need another one.
 

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edunn69 said:
This should be an easy fix as the electric start only plugs into 2 places on the sled.
1)The wire for the starter selonoid gets plaugged into a black 3-prong plug(triangle shaped) by the right side of the carbs. This just gets unplugged and capped off.
2)Behind your left knee there is a connection for a fuse box. You need to remove the fuse box and the wire that is plugged into it. When you do this, you will notice 2 black plugs (1 male/1 female, square, 4 wires i think), these need to be plugged into each other.
That's all there is to hooking up or unhooking electric start. My guess is the 2 plugs need to be plugged back together! I will go out now and take a picture to show the plugs.
Here is a picture of the 2 connections that need to be plugged into each other by left knee.
If any of you have this fuse box and wire that you want to get rid of let me know, I need another one.
Click to expand...

AWESOME!!!

I knew there had to be something simple..... I will try this later tonight!!!!!

Thanks 1,000,000!!!
 
No luck..... the only wires on the left (clutch) side are for oil and gas sending unit anr hand warmers.... the right side only has one harness that splits, goes to the regulator and rectifier.....

I'm gonna try bluemonsters Idea next.... anyone know what color at the CDI is signal to the tach??? I would guess the same color at both ends..... thing is I completely inspected, retaped, and wire loomed the entire harness when I did the salvage and swap......

What I'm gathering though is the tach only needs signal from the CDI and ground to work though.... right??? :o| :o| :o|
 
Does your sled have a fusebox still? It could also be a wire rub thru under the engine, but if it just stopped when you took the electric start off I would look in those areas first
 
No fuse block...... new wire harness completely no time for a rub through.... i did a complete under hood swap between a 600twin and tripple...... only difference is the new set up came off a sled that had elec start and reverse..... I used the motor wire harness gauges..... carbs..... airbox.... exhaust.... motor mounts....... everything from under the hood of a 2001 venture tripple and dropped it under the hood of my 98 xtc 600 twin making it a tripple with all original 2001 600 tripple parts..... I removed the elec start and reverse completely....... striped all the wires and connectors that went with the electric start and reverse from the harness and left it with the owner of the venture so he could put it on his viper......

My 600 twin tach worked after the swap but read 10,000 + rpm as soon as I touched the throtle..... so I contacted the seller and got the original tach and speedo that came from the factory with the motor and wire harness....... when connected the speedo works fine but the tach only lights up..... no RPM reading......
 
Crazy!!!! That worked Bluemonster!!!! .....now the question is why!!!???

For soke reason the brown wire has 70v at the CDI, but only 14v at the Tach..... could that be what the big capacitor is for on the old twin tach???

Either way.... Thanks 1,000,000!!!

I never come up with the simple solutions......
 
I hate to beat a dead horse but i just switched the e start from my 1999 600 deluxe to my xtc700 and now the tach doesnt work. it was fine when i took the e start off i didnt change anything else. Your saying the easiest solution is a jumper the the gauge?
 
Found the issue. Non e start has a smoothing capicitor. Its up under the tach. E start doesnt have it. Needs capacitor without a battery
 
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