'01 SXR 700 and T.O.R.S

C

CountryGuy

New member
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
3
I just purchased a 2001 SXR 700. We had a bit of trouble after changing the plugs with what I think was the T.O.R.S. system. Everytime we'd give it a little gas it seemed like the electrical system on the sled cut-out ie. the lights went out and the engine idled down and then picked right back up again. The thing that made us think it was the T.O.R.S. was the Oil light flashed three times everytime it came back up just as it does when you start the sled. After digging in the manual for a few minutes we realized that improperly gapped spark plugs can cause the T.O.R.S. to kick in. We gapped the plugs to spec. and the problem seemed to go away. So far so good. I just want some verification that the plugs not being gapped correctly was actually the cause. I'd hate to get 50 miles from the truck and have the sled act up like that again. Has anyone else seen this or can anyone else give me some assurance I won't end up walkin? Thanks.. :rocks:
 

well we messed with it again tonight and tried the the throttle cable, now it's still doing the same thing just at a higher rpm, we tried different plugs still nothing.... could bad gas be part of it, or will cleaning the carbs help?... I'm not familiar with the TORS stuff, but i have a 98 banshee with TORS, and it was doing the same exact thing that his sled is doing and i just unpluged it and since then i have had no problems, is that a possibility on the SXR or is that not recomended? We're stumped :o| thanks in advance
 
just unplug the TORS and plug it back into itself and then try the sled. Its the only wires going to the carbs...you cant miss it.
 
Ok.. We've ruled out the TORS. We disconnected the wires to see if we could get the sled to reproduce the symptoms all the time and what we thought was the TORS is NOT the TORS. Doubled the wires back on each other and its still doing it. Its almost like the entire electrical system drops out on the sled at high RPM. When you get right on the gas it starts flickering but the second you release on it the lights come right back and the oil light blinks 3 times just as it does when you first start the sled. Usually it does it now when I'm in motion but every once in awhile it will start acting up when you punch the gas and you can't get the sled to move. It is not limiting the RPMs, its totally killing all power to the sled.

Any suggestions? We're drowning on this one.. Thanks..
 
Ok.. Checked the prints and followed it back wire for wire. My highbeam selector switch didn't work correctly so I figured this would be a great place to start looking for any kind of short. Got all the way down through and found one of the wires that runs up to the headlight (It was green so I'm assuming it was a ground) had melted as a result of not being in its proper retainer clip and rubbing against the pipe. The tricky part was it was down low and the cable twisted everytime you opened the hood to hide the damaged part. Closed the hood and watched the cable and sure enough it came within milimeters of rubbing the exhaust, which would explain why it was so intermittent. The short must have been draining power to the CDI causing the reset. Also found a broken wire in the harness that runs up to the handle bars which runs my high/low beam selection. A couple butt connectors, a little contact cleaner, a roll of electrical tape, replace all the hair I pulled out over the last week or so .. and the sled was happy again. Thank you for all your time and help. :rocks: ;)! :WayCool:
 
I wouldn't trust those crimp on butt connectors. I would highly recomend solder with shrink tubing over the splice. I have seen to many of these crimp on connectors fail.
 
i had the same problem and it was my t.o.r.e.s so i just unplugged mine and it works fine.
 
no crimp ons!!!

unimog said:
I wouldn't trust those crimp on butt connectors. I would highly recomend solder with shrink tubing over the splice. I have seen to many of these crimp on connectors fail.
Click to expand...


I agree... crimp ons will ultimately fail, go with solder and shrink tube :rockon:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top