Enticer crank seal removal

J

jkazam1

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Joined
Apr 9, 2011
Messages
3
Age
64
Location
pa
I have the et250c apart for cyl. boring. I would like to do the crank seals while everything is apart and on the bench. How do I remove them???? Just start prying?? Thanks in advance
 
Not sure about yours , BUT my older Yams all have steel
ridges that sit in grooves in the crankcase...so you need
to remove clutch and ign and split crankcase....
Maybe yours is diff.? as its newer
Ron
 
Thanks Ron. Looking at the new Winderosa seals I have, they do not have any grooves or ridges, they are smooth on the sides. I have everything off the lower end, but splitting the cases seems to come with a host of potential problems. Pressing the crankshaft out, heating and pulling bearings, etc. I did buy a Clymers manual, although it does not cover single cylinder teardown.(38.00 waste, I think) If I have to, I have to, although if I can avoid it, I will. I was going to possibly replace the bearings too, if I do have to split, but 90.00 for (2) bearings seems unreasonable. Not only that, you still can't do the rod bearing, so ?????? Anyway, any other tips on this rebuild would be apprieciated. Thanks in advance....
 
Since you have no ridges ,,,drill or poke one hole at
12 oclock and another at 6....maybe put a pc of hose over drill bit to keep it from going too far in,.....screw in a pair
of wood screws and pry them out..
You don't want a hardened drill bit stuck in the crankcase
bearings ..LOL
Ron
 
The Clymer manuals are usually a waste of money if you really want info., they seem more like a small step up from a good owners manual. Genuine Yamaha service manuals are the best.
I've never done a ET250, but have done MANY other crank seals. Mine all had a lip in the seal as well.
It didn't require any bearing pressing or anything like that, since the seals sat outside of all the bearings. And with the cases split the seals just slid right off.
I would just watch Ebay for a Yamaha manual.
 
Seals

If you are talking about the end seals they are only replaceable by splitting the case. Not a bad jab at all and you get access to the bearings and are able to see if they are OK. Bearings that growl are not good. There is no pressing the crank out. Pull the case bolts and separate the half's, the bearings will have alignment holes in them that must be aligned to reassemble the case half's. The seals are directional also so install them the same way they are removed. Use Yamabond on the case half's when reassembling. Do not use compressed air to spin the bearings, clean them with solvent and generously lube them with two stroke oil prior to reassembling the cases. Hardest part will be getting the clutch off. Good luck.
 
"""Looking at the new Winderosa seals I have, they do not have any grooves or ridges, they are smooth on the sides. ""
.
Curious to see what you found in the engine,,,,We are talking about ridges on the outer edge of the seal, not
the side.....I did cheat on a sled, and pulled out the seal
destructivly from the end , peeled out the ridge and
ground off the edge of the new seal and glued it in...
Just a show sled and in hind sight, should have taken
the extra time to pull the engine...It is fine so far as it
just has to run on and off the trailer. I only had an hour
to complete the job as it went to a show the next day
and I like my sleep.LOL
Ron
 
OK, Seals came out without splitting the case. Single cyl. 2 stroke, and the cases split vertically, as opposed to everything else I have seen where they split horizontally. As such, the seals are just a tight fit into the case holes. The clutch side is large, and drives in until it bottoms on a lip in the case. The Ignition side is small, and care must be used to not over-drive it (speaking from experience, as 1 is now ruined and I'm waiting on another). There is no case lip on this side, and you could pound it to the bearing should you desire. In summary, both sides have smooth side seals, with no lips moulded on. Some type of sealant was used originally, as it was dried on the old seals and case. I used Threebond 1194 on the new ones. Waiting on the cylinder boring now. (and a new seal!) Will be ditching the Keihin for a Mikuni round slide when I get that far. Any additional info on that??? Anyone have part #'s for throttle cable, choke cable, etc??? Anyone try keeping the original oil injection??(maybe rigging up a dual throttle cable with a bracket near the original arm to actuate it?? Thanks for the responses!!!!
 
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