dragonsm
Member
Track Replacement Question
98 SRX 600 with a track I am not even sure what model it is. 5300miles on the sled. Probably not the original factory track, however not a clue how many miles are on the current track.
In the process of getting it ready to put away for the summer, I decided to look closely at the track. The lugs on the track are about 1/2" and the studs are measuring about an 1". I need to check for pull throughs as my brother in law found a stud of mine in his yard this spring when the snow melted. The sled did just fine with all the studs (144 I believe) on the hard packed groomed trails and lakes, however in a little bit of powder, it sometime seemed as though I had the power but couldn't quite get it all to hook in.
So, my question is....how does one know when to replace a track or what do you look for in a track that needs replacing? Figure spring/summer would be a good time to look for a track "deal" and not have to worry about laying up the sled if I run into an issue.
Thanks,
Steve
98 SRX 600 with a track I am not even sure what model it is. 5300miles on the sled. Probably not the original factory track, however not a clue how many miles are on the current track.
In the process of getting it ready to put away for the summer, I decided to look closely at the track. The lugs on the track are about 1/2" and the studs are measuring about an 1". I need to check for pull throughs as my brother in law found a stud of mine in his yard this spring when the snow melted. The sled did just fine with all the studs (144 I believe) on the hard packed groomed trails and lakes, however in a little bit of powder, it sometime seemed as though I had the power but couldn't quite get it all to hook in.
So, my question is....how does one know when to replace a track or what do you look for in a track that needs replacing? Figure spring/summer would be a good time to look for a track "deal" and not have to worry about laying up the sled if I run into an issue.
Thanks,
Steve
Last edited:
track replacement
its your tire, treat it like it. if your tire is dry-rotted, you replace it because it will blow out. same as you track. if your tire has chunks missing out of it, you relace it cause it will blow out. Same as your track..........
its your tire, treat it like it. if your tire is dry-rotted, you replace it because it will blow out. same as you track. if your tire has chunks missing out of it, you relace it cause it will blow out. Same as your track..........
sleddineinar
VIP Member
You're not going to get a good hook up in loose snow or powder with that track. I would recommend a 1" Predator or (Carve is the new name) or a 1" Hacksaw. I had the 1" Predator with studs and I thought it hooked up really well, in both conditions. I wish they made a 1.25" x 144" Predator, I'd buy one for sure.
track replacement isnt too bad of a job,
1.)remove the rear skidframe
2.)then drain the oil from the chain case
3.) remove chaincase cover, remove chain and gears
4.) remove 2 bolts holding brake caliper to chaincase, set it off to the side still hooked up to hose
5.) remove bolts holding chaincase to frame(4)
6.) remove 3 bolts on clutch side holding speedo drive housing to frame
7.) remove set screws from driveshaft bearing(torx head) inside the tunnel and get bearing off driveshaft out the clutch side of frame.
8.) grab a hold of the chaincase and slide it off the jackshaft and driveshaft, leave the parking brake cable attached and the brake rotor should also come off the shaft, you sometimes need help from a plastic hammer.
once the chaincase slides off there will be a little keyway for the brake rotor dont forget it. once this is done the drive shaft can come out and replace the track. take your time its not that bad of a job, just keep all your spacers and stuff organized.
1.)remove the rear skidframe
2.)then drain the oil from the chain case
3.) remove chaincase cover, remove chain and gears
4.) remove 2 bolts holding brake caliper to chaincase, set it off to the side still hooked up to hose
5.) remove bolts holding chaincase to frame(4)
6.) remove 3 bolts on clutch side holding speedo drive housing to frame
7.) remove set screws from driveshaft bearing(torx head) inside the tunnel and get bearing off driveshaft out the clutch side of frame.
8.) grab a hold of the chaincase and slide it off the jackshaft and driveshaft, leave the parking brake cable attached and the brake rotor should also come off the shaft, you sometimes need help from a plastic hammer.
once the chaincase slides off there will be a little keyway for the brake rotor dont forget it. once this is done the drive shaft can come out and replace the track. take your time its not that bad of a job, just keep all your spacers and stuff organized.