780srxgeorge
Member
a few months ago i listed about going 136 on the sled.& my cousin had a track so I fixed my cousin ATV for couple bucks + the track. BUT he said it was 1.25 & turns out to be camoplast challenger 1.50 
. KNOW WHAT ?.it's really nice. new clips & every 3rd window.only 3 lugs on out side are brock.i know it's only May so got some time to think about it.it well look pretty dame cool on there & hook up real good.just wanted to go 1.25 & plus studs!.O-well got some time to think
. KNOW WHAT ?.it's really nice. new clips & every 3rd window.only 3 lugs on out side are brock.i know it's only May so got some time to think about it.it well look pretty dame cool on there & hook up real good.just wanted to go 1.25 & plus studs!.O-well got some time to think Spinner018
New member
if you can clear 1.5 without studs run it with no studs. otherwise just cut the track down with a knife to 1.25 and stud it if thats what you want to do. but i see no reason your running a 136 and would want to stud. just run it
780srxgeorge said:a few months ago i listed about going 136 on the sled.& my cousin had a track so I fixed my cousin ATV for couple bucks + the track. BUT he said it was 1.25 & turns out to be camoplast challenger 1.50
As Spinner suggests, you could cut the lugs down to 1.25 but you'd still be up against needing a stud that'd be too long. Even with 8 tooth drivers the stud required to get beyond a 1.25 lug would cause rub issues at the rear HX.
Cutting the lugs to 1" and using 1.075" studs would work or using 1.175" (as Woody's measures them) and running the track at OEM specs would also work but I don't know what cutting a half inch off the lug would do to the track's durability.
I understand your desire to use studs (I won't ride without them) but if you're intent on using the 1.5, it'll have to be without studs. From what I've read and seen on my '01, you're limited to a 1" track if you want to stud.
Tough call George, but you have time to stew on it or find a 1" track.
BigTimeFarmer
New member
my viper used to have a 136x1.5 challenger. (sans cooler and tunnel protection of course, no studs) it hooked up like crazy on the grommed trails and even performed pretty well on a coulple trips to wyoming. i loved the setup. but now that i've put it back to 121 i've realied how much the rail extensions sacrifice suspension performance. if i were to do it over again i'd find a 136" skid.
tippmannator
New member
i'd stick with the 1.5" lug....with lugs like that you can do a majority of riding styles without loosing the "trail rideability". just my .02 worth
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
A couple of wooden blocks on each side of the lug and a router will trim em down to whatever height you want. I used a Dremmel w/ a router attachment.
780srxgeorge
Member
thanks for the info guys.if it was a 1.25 i was going 8 toothdrivers & 108 studs.yes going w/ rail extensions got viper sked.i have 9 tooth windowdrivers & the track is closed 3rd window have to cut out the windows.butt summer is here no time w/ boat & all.so the 1.5 just might bee? 
So at 136" will a 1.25 track with studs clear the HX? If not...is there any fix? 8 tooth driver? what does that do? I'm a newb!
super1c
Super Moderator
spwild47 said:
Well here's the way i see it. Many here will agree but some continue to say that running a 1.25 lug track with studs is ok. IT'S NOT. Running a 1.25 track is the way to go for sure. On my 04 viper s even a worn out 1.25 track with studs is better all around then my wifes 1" with studs. If you run studs with the 1.25 lug track you must put on 8 tooth drivers. Even with 8 tooth drivers mine still has nicks on the heat exchangers with protectors, and im not running very long studs. But do a search, a ton of other opionions and info on this. Unless you like green slushies i would run 8 tooth drivers. My 25cents Chris
sleddineinar
VIP Member
2x on the 8 tooth drivers... It's not expensive either, I picked up a set on the axle for $30 in the classified section last year.
running a 1.25 lug track with studs is ok. IT'S NOT. Running a 1.25 track is the way to go for sure. On my 04 viper s even a worn out 1.25 track with studs is better all around then my wifes 1" with studs
So are you saying it is okay to run a 1.25" track with studs because thats what you are doing now..but only if you have the 8 tooth driver? seems like you say 1.25 with studs is not okay but then you say you are doing it?
So are you saying it is okay to run a 1.25" track with studs because thats what you are doing now..but only if you have the 8 tooth driver? seems like you say 1.25 with studs is not okay but then you say you are doing it?
tippmannator
New member
my opinion is avoid studs all together and just go with a longer/stiffer lug (1.5 camoplast crossover) and you wont even need to change your drivers. just remove the protectors and you will be good... my 2 cents
I stretched my 121" to a 136" along w/ 8 tooth drivers. This past season put on a new pre-drilled 1.25 ripsaw pre-drilled for 162. I put in 1.34 roetins, along w/ drop down brackets from CB Performance. Nothing hit. Last year I was running .75" lug w/ 1.34" roetins w/o the drop brackets, but w/ the 8 tooth drivers. There were times that the studs w/ contact the tunnel under the seat on a really big bump, but other than that didn't strike the HX. I thought it a much better sled w/ the ripsaw.
So let me ask this..if I were to get a 136" mono skid, a 1.25" lug Ripsaw, and use those CB drop brackets to increase clearance by 2.5", use the .134 Roetin's, I should have no troubles with hitting the HX exchangers?
spwild47 said:
As long as you use the 8 tooth drivers you should be in the clear. The 8 tooth really do give you a noticeable distance in the front to the front heat exchanger. In the rear I'm running the SRX curved HX w/o guards and no issues there. Expecially w/ the drop brackets.
super1c
Super Moderator
spwild47 said:
I guess that was poorly writen. I run a 1.25 lug with studs and 8 tooth drivers. Anything larger than a 1" lug and running studs you should go with a 8 tooth driver. Chris
780srxgeorge
Member
so what you guys are saying is go w/ drop brackets & remove the heat EXers protecters & it's all good w/ 9 tooth drivers.will i have too track clip the 3rd window for my noslip drivers? or just cut holes out?.I know it's MAY but i can't wait to get started.thanks
780srxgeorge said:
With 9 tooth drivers, I personally wouldn't be running 1.34" studs, in fear of striking the front HX. I originally had 1.08" on a .9 track w/ no issues. But studding in order to compensate for the 1.25" lug may prove to be troublesome in the long run w/ the stock drivers. If using extroverts, you will need a full opened and clipped track.
780srxgeorge
Member
thanks thats what i was getting at.the track is a 1.5 .02ViperMody44 said:
will i NEED drop brackets?? for the back clearance or fine w/ out.
780srxgeorge said:
thanks thats what i was getting at.the track is a 1.5 .
If studding a 1.5" track, my opinion is YES on the drop brackets. I was striking the tunnel once and a while w/ the 1.25" track and 1.340" roetins B4 drop brackets. To alleviate this the best I could, I would run my rear spring tight, for a very stiff ride. The drop brackets is what I would suggest if you plan on studding a 1.5" track. I had no issues w/ the rear HX w/ the Hartman 136" kit, and where the rear HX bolts to.