Hello everyone. I'm new here. I have a 1998 MSRX and i'm looking for help on converting it from a 136 to a 151. I purchaced a set of rails 144 from e-bay, they were suposed to be for 97 to 99 skid but they sent the wrong one. So i've done some research, and notice alot of people are converting there skid to the 2000/2003 skid for better flotation and a 17 deg foot print.... What parts and modifacations do i need properly do this, can i use all my old susp... Any help would be great. i also have the 151 rail extentions that came with the rails.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
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you can relocate your existing skid in the tunnel and move some mount points on the rails to achieve the equivalent of 2000 and up 141 geometry.
i have done this a few times with good results and still have my notes and dimensions if your interested.
i have done this a few times with good results and still have my notes and dimensions if your interested.
what had happend is I broke one of my rails at the front shock, so i bought a set of 144 rails with rail ext. But they sent me rails from a 2000/2003 skid. i would like to use these rails if at all possible. But because the rails holes are set back about 5 " diference from shock mounts on the rails... So i think that moving the mount holes on my frame should be set back a bit to roughly the same as what you had done, Well atleast it may give me a starting point. If a can maybe i could borrow your info. or pictures would help to.
Thanks
Thanks
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those rails will work just fine. no redrilling required. you just need to relocate the mount points on the tunnel, drill and add backing plates unless you move your stock plates. your project just became that much easier as drilling the 136 rails is a bit of a challenge.
i have the mount dimensions you need for the tunnel. you may even consider some drop brackets for the rear.
i assume your aware of all the other parts necessary for the longer skid. i also have some tips for making the srx perform better in deep snow.
i have the mount dimensions you need for the tunnel. you may even consider some drop brackets for the rear.
i assume your aware of all the other parts necessary for the longer skid. i also have some tips for making the srx perform better in deep snow.
Thanks Snowdad4 that defanately makes things better. When you say that there are other parts needed to do the extention what are you refering to. Not shuer how this all works but with info from someone do we have to pay for that or is that what we kinda do on these forum.
Thanks
Thanks
the info is free. thats one of the greatest features of TY. i do recommend donating to the site if you feel you have gained or at the least share your input on subjects your knowledgable about to "give back" so to speak.
you will need a tunnel extension and some longer coolant hoses at the very least. in addition, for a clean look, hose covers from the mtn sleds make for a stock appearing fit and finish. i dont recall what exactly the msrx used, but you may have something to work with there for the hose covers.
for the relocate, the front arm needs to be moved back 8 7/8" from the stock location. both the center and rear mounts move back 4". all are center to center. i make backing plates for the front and center mounts from 1/8" aluminum plate 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" and secure with rivets. for the rear drops i use 1/4" aluminum plate, radious the lower corners and secure with 5/16" x 1" stainless buttton head allen bolts with whizlock nuts and loctite. loctite is your friend through this entire process.
that should get you started and plenty to think about. no problem walking you through the entire procedure.
you will need a tunnel extension and some longer coolant hoses at the very least. in addition, for a clean look, hose covers from the mtn sleds make for a stock appearing fit and finish. i dont recall what exactly the msrx used, but you may have something to work with there for the hose covers.
for the relocate, the front arm needs to be moved back 8 7/8" from the stock location. both the center and rear mounts move back 4". all are center to center. i make backing plates for the front and center mounts from 1/8" aluminum plate 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" and secure with rivets. for the rear drops i use 1/4" aluminum plate, radious the lower corners and secure with 5/16" x 1" stainless buttton head allen bolts with whizlock nuts and loctite. loctite is your friend through this entire process.
that should get you started and plenty to think about. no problem walking you through the entire procedure.
thanks allot for the help i really appreciate it.when i do start in a few week is there a way to specifally get in touch of you on here.
no problem helping out.
you can use the private message option or email me.
keep your thread going with updates as to the progress. others may gain from the info. what you are about to do will apply to any proaction mtn sled 97-99. also works on the short tracked sleds for those interested in longtracking.
you can use the private message option or email me.
keep your thread going with updates as to the progress. others may gain from the info. what you are about to do will apply to any proaction mtn sled 97-99. also works on the short tracked sleds for those interested in longtracking.
hello Snowdad4 one more question for you, the original track was a 1.5", with out changing drivers does this allow me to put studs if i stay with 1.5.... what do yo recomend. i do all kinds of riding not just mountain, we have lots of lakes.
i dont have any experience with studs on taller lug tracks. dont use them. you may browse around the srx/viper section or even pose the question.
lug studs would be my next suggestion.
lug studs would be my next suggestion.
gild
New member
frnt shock brkt
you will need the lower centre shock brkt and the W arm brkts for the newer rails
you will need the lower centre shock brkt and the W arm brkts for the newer rails