Hi Guys,
Need a few suggestions and info concerning a top end rebuild on the 00 srx. Did a compression test, got 100 psi across all cylinders. Shot up to 120psi after dropping a little 2 stroke down the spark plug hole. I'm assuming this indicates worn rings. Here are my questions.
1. Do the gaskets on the domes need to be changed? I plan on removing the jugs without removing the domes. Is that even possible?
2. Does the bearing and sleeve need to be removed to change the rings? I'd rather not replace the circlips, sleeves and bearing if I do not have to.
3. Does the cylinder need to be honed? If so will a standard 3 stone hone do the job? Is the cylinder steel or nikasil?
4. After the install what is the break in period for the rings to seat? What should I expect for compression? Do I need to switch to conventional / yamalube for the break in process?
Any common pitfalls? Any special tools to spin the jug nuts out? Does the jug nut like to take the stud with it? Any other suggestions?
Need a few suggestions and info concerning a top end rebuild on the 00 srx. Did a compression test, got 100 psi across all cylinders. Shot up to 120psi after dropping a little 2 stroke down the spark plug hole. I'm assuming this indicates worn rings. Here are my questions.
1. Do the gaskets on the domes need to be changed? I plan on removing the jugs without removing the domes. Is that even possible?
2. Does the bearing and sleeve need to be removed to change the rings? I'd rather not replace the circlips, sleeves and bearing if I do not have to.
3. Does the cylinder need to be honed? If so will a standard 3 stone hone do the job? Is the cylinder steel or nikasil?
4. After the install what is the break in period for the rings to seat? What should I expect for compression? Do I need to switch to conventional / yamalube for the break in process?
Any common pitfalls? Any special tools to spin the jug nuts out? Does the jug nut like to take the stud with it? Any other suggestions?
staggs65
Moderator
a few ?s but i'll give you my opinions as well
as for the big ? what is the mileage on this sled? all your miles and as far as u know has it been apart before?
1. the heads (domes) are o rings and can be re-used. but it would be possible to remove with the jug
2.no, you can swap the rings with the pistons still on the rods (but depending on the miles your pistons could be out of spec and should be checked)
3.it's not a bad idea to hone it just to "deglaze" it and give a good surface for the new rings to seat to. yes a 3 stone hone works fine. the cyl is nikasil.
4. for me... run it through a heat cycle then ride it like u stole it. some will say run conventional for a break in... i've seen no differnce... this works for me but break in procedure is one of those subjective things.. jmo
for me... i'd be checking the pistons (probably changing them without ? depending on mileage), changing, wristpins, clips, n bearings regardless. also depending on mileage since it's been apart your crank seals are prob. due to be changed. remember mileage aside this sled is goin on 12 years old.
these are my opinions. others will chime in. take it all in and do what works best for your time, skill and budget
as for the big ? what is the mileage on this sled? all your miles and as far as u know has it been apart before?
1. the heads (domes) are o rings and can be re-used. but it would be possible to remove with the jug
2.no, you can swap the rings with the pistons still on the rods (but depending on the miles your pistons could be out of spec and should be checked)
3.it's not a bad idea to hone it just to "deglaze" it and give a good surface for the new rings to seat to. yes a 3 stone hone works fine. the cyl is nikasil.
4. for me... run it through a heat cycle then ride it like u stole it. some will say run conventional for a break in... i've seen no differnce... this works for me but break in procedure is one of those subjective things.. jmo
for me... i'd be checking the pistons (probably changing them without ? depending on mileage), changing, wristpins, clips, n bearings regardless. also depending on mileage since it's been apart your crank seals are prob. due to be changed. remember mileage aside this sled is goin on 12 years old.
these are my opinions. others will chime in. take it all in and do what works best for your time, skill and budget
TopGunnSrx
New member
Agreed with above, you're that close just do it all now.
Sled has roughly 3700 miles, I do not believe out had been apart before. What is involved with replacing crank seals? I'd like to get this done without removing the motor.
bluebandit98
New member
crank seals you have to remove motor no way around it