Triple pipe modification

YooperMike

YooperMike

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Joined
Feb 23, 2006
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530
Location
McMillan, MI
So, the background...I have a stock motor 2000 MM. A few summers ago I picked up a set of ceramic coated Big Bore SLP triples, thinking I was going to get my motor trail ported. I have not done that...and probably never will. I have these things just laying around collecting dust, tried selling them, trading them, but nobody seems to want them. I have reverse on my sled also and have no intention of ditching that. So I'm thinking, what could I do with these pipes to install them with the setup I have? Somehow get a regular SLP canister modified to accept the big bores or modify the big bore can to fit with the reverse....what do you guys think? It's summer and I know everyone needs a theoretical project, right? I know I'd have to monkey around with the jetting and clutching, but not too worried about that. I think the backpressure issue, or rather lack thereof with the bigbores on a stock mm motor is the problem. Would reducing the volume of the can to make room for the reverse chaincase help with the backpressure? Let the suggestions fly!
 

Mr. Viper or Turk would be good guys to answer this,but who knows how quick you'll get a response this time of year.
 
SWEDE said:
Mr. Viper or Turk would be good guys to answer this,but who knows how quick you'll get a response this time of year.
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Yeah...I just thought if someone was bored they'd like to comment. I might be out of my tree on this one. Like I said, they're just sitting there and if I could maybe do an experiment based on knowledge of others, I might try it.
 
So, this is kind of what I was envisioning. Cut off the back half of the existing can, cut a section to match the cross section of the can, weld in place with some exhaust donuts on the flat piece, and get some pipes custom made/bent to match up and fit with the reverse chaincase. I have NO idea what the internals on this look like on the silencer, not sure if there are baffles or if its just open space. Possibly a 3 into one like the regular triple can. It's that big half-donut shape that's killing me....
 

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Maybe try a Big F'n hammer and dent to fit first if I'm just gonna cut it off anyways. Come on guys! Get fired up! Only 4-5 months until rideable snow!
 
how about skipping the canister theory and going with three seperate stingers? i would think the key would be having the tubes the same length leading from the pipes to the stingers would be the key for even flow.

did this a few years back when i ran the srx motor in the vmax pogo chassis.
 
The performance aspects of pipe design is largely derived from the point it necks down on the pipe before the muffler/stinger back up to the cylinder. However, you can change back pressure and how strong the pulse transfers between pipes to some degree by making the change you suggest. Personally I do not think this will have a very large effect, but I am no pipe design expert. Think of each pipe as a separate air flow circuit that each has it's own pulses (both directions). The key points are how long and large the expansion section is and how much and how quickly it necks down. This controls the timing and strength of the return pulse that pushes the "drawn through" fuel charge back into the cylinder just before the exhaust port is closed off.
 
snowdad4 said:
how about skipping the canister theory and going with three seperate stingers? i would think the key would be having the tubes the same length leading from the pipes to the stingers would be the key for even flow.

did this a few years back when i ran the srx motor in the vmax pogo chassis.
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Oh boy...that would be stupid loud wouldn't it? But I like the idea, got a suggestion on stingers to look for, or would anything work as long as the lengths/diameters were identical?
 
Ding said:
The performance aspects of pipe design is largely derived from the point it necks down on the pipe before the muffler/stinger back up to the cylinder. However, you can change back pressure and how strong the pulse transfers between pipes to some degree by making the change you suggest. Personally I do not think this will have a very large effect, but I am no pipe design expert. Think of each pipe as a separate air flow circuit that each has it's own pulses (both directions). The key points are how long and large the expansion section is and how much and how quickly it necks down. This controls the timing and strength of the return pulse that pushes the "drawn through" fuel charge back into the cylinder just before the exhaust port is closed off.
Click to expand...

So, in theory, what you are saying is the backpressure is actually developed at the tail end of the pipe itself as it necks back down from the expanded portion of the pipe, and not in the canister. If that is the case, then it would be almost negligible to dent to fit or do any cutting/welding, as you stated. Anyone want to port my motor for a case of beer?
 
the stinger type silencer on my mtn max isnt too terribly loud, in my opinion. (bender pipes)

the race stingers from hauck i ran on the race sled were extremely loud, but it was used for racing only-no trail. they also offered a trail set that i would assume to be much quieter.

i simply cut the welded strapping and rearranged them to fit my needs, then reworked them back to a unit configuration.
 
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