Harvey
New member
whats the weight of a camo 9830 track compared to the stock yoko on a 02 SRX?Is there enough weight savings to make it worth while?I was considering going from my stock track with 192 studs to a 9830 camo with 144 down the middle.need opinions,looking to gain more on the lake.thanks-Harvey
The 9830 weighs less cus it is only clipped every 3rd window. The hook up diff on snow is huge..9830 is way better.
Harvey
New member
I dont really have a problem hooking up but wondered if there was much to gain with an 8 pound lighter track and looseing the weight of 48 studs and backers?thanks-Harvey
For every pound of rotating weight you remove its like taking 10lbs of stationary weight off the sled. Less studs and lighter track= more topend,faster speeds.
Harvey
New member
thanks-Harvey
How's that combo workin'. the 9830 w/144 down the middle? Was thinking about dumping my ripsaw for that set up. Is that enough studs for a 02 SRX? as far as durability and hook-up goes? My buddy has a 700 Pro-X '04 with a pipe etc. It runs really strong. He usually jumps me 2-3 sleds out of the hole then it takes me until 65-90 mph. depending how much I hook up. He has 168 studs there was 3-4" of snow on an ice base. I just want to be on equal terms he's getting kind of cocky.
this is all i know.
first year i had the viper i guessed the stock track would suck as most on yamaha do.
i bought a polaris track that is the same patern as the 9830 exept the windows have stars in them.
i figured the track was lighter as there was no extra clips in it. wrong. the track was the same weight, no difference. the rubber in the windows and the fact that the camo has smaller windows makes up for any gain in less clips.
it is taller though and is very empty in the middle that helps in top speed(less air and snow pumping)
i listened to all the snake oil salesmen on sites about how 144 down the middle would be the answer to my preyers. i was more than a little unhappy.
studs are intalled for four reasons, stop, go, turn, and ruin track. the last we all try to avoid. i found that 144 down the middle was good for snow. on icey corners it became apparent that the sled was now unstable. when i say this i mean the sled didnt always hook up. when riding hard in icy corners(where you want them to work) the studs would grab good unless the sled lifted a little putting preasure on the outside of the track where there is no studs and lifting the middle of the track thus making the sled slide and grab, slide and grab. very nice feeling finding this out.
the other problem with this stud patern has to do with yamahas design of skid frame and wheel configuration. yamaha only has two wheels in the center in the rear. when you put the studs in the middle for the most part the studs try to bend the track up in the middle making the outer two studs take the load and the middle one where ever it might be with little or no preasure on it. this constant bowing of the bars up makes the slides wear on the insides more than the outsides.
the minimum i will run on a sled now is 168 outside patern. this is the safest patern for all conditions as well as the safest for your track. the 144 , 3/3/3 or 4/2/4 patern is a track eater. look at this patern on a track and count the no of studs on the ground on the outside bar, about 6 as i remember. now think of what happens when you go through a hard corner and get on the gas, the sled puts all its power and weight to the outside bar and is usually spinning at this time. if the track grabs taction it is grabing it with only 6 studs. if that track was studded with 168 outside patern that load would have been caried by two or three times the studs depending on the patern used. this patern or 192 will cause less pull through.
most tracks i have seen that rip studs have been not studded in ever hole outside.
im not saying it is bullet proof but it is better on the track, slides, and hanling than 144 down the middle
now comes the people telling me that their sled was fine with that patern and it probly was. i want to know what my sled is going to do in all conditions and will make it as safe as it can be in all of them.
as for the 9830 it is far better than the yoko in traction off trail. just a look at it will tell you.
first year i had the viper i guessed the stock track would suck as most on yamaha do.
i bought a polaris track that is the same patern as the 9830 exept the windows have stars in them.
i figured the track was lighter as there was no extra clips in it. wrong. the track was the same weight, no difference. the rubber in the windows and the fact that the camo has smaller windows makes up for any gain in less clips.
it is taller though and is very empty in the middle that helps in top speed(less air and snow pumping)
i listened to all the snake oil salesmen on sites about how 144 down the middle would be the answer to my preyers. i was more than a little unhappy.
studs are intalled for four reasons, stop, go, turn, and ruin track. the last we all try to avoid. i found that 144 down the middle was good for snow. on icey corners it became apparent that the sled was now unstable. when i say this i mean the sled didnt always hook up. when riding hard in icy corners(where you want them to work) the studs would grab good unless the sled lifted a little putting preasure on the outside of the track where there is no studs and lifting the middle of the track thus making the sled slide and grab, slide and grab. very nice feeling finding this out.
the other problem with this stud patern has to do with yamahas design of skid frame and wheel configuration. yamaha only has two wheels in the center in the rear. when you put the studs in the middle for the most part the studs try to bend the track up in the middle making the outer two studs take the load and the middle one where ever it might be with little or no preasure on it. this constant bowing of the bars up makes the slides wear on the insides more than the outsides.
the minimum i will run on a sled now is 168 outside patern. this is the safest patern for all conditions as well as the safest for your track. the 144 , 3/3/3 or 4/2/4 patern is a track eater. look at this patern on a track and count the no of studs on the ground on the outside bar, about 6 as i remember. now think of what happens when you go through a hard corner and get on the gas, the sled puts all its power and weight to the outside bar and is usually spinning at this time. if the track grabs taction it is grabing it with only 6 studs. if that track was studded with 168 outside patern that load would have been caried by two or three times the studs depending on the patern used. this patern or 192 will cause less pull through.
most tracks i have seen that rip studs have been not studded in ever hole outside.
im not saying it is bullet proof but it is better on the track, slides, and hanling than 144 down the middle
now comes the people telling me that their sled was fine with that patern and it probly was. i want to know what my sled is going to do in all conditions and will make it as safe as it can be in all of them.
as for the 9830 it is far better than the yoko in traction off trail. just a look at it will tell you.
Harvey
New member
working great,very happy with it.We just got 18" of fresh powder,this thing is great in the deep snow,what a blast.-Harvey
Is there a stud pattern chart on this site anywhere? I had 192 in my old piped sx700 I ran the polaris .91 lightning track. Man did that thing run hard until about 85. Anyway, I beat it for about 2.5 winters before finally tearing the edge off in the ditch, blame that on me I guess. Thanks for the input.