ReaperSRX
Member
Hey guys, i am thinking of picking up a sled lift or setting up an electric hoist from the ceiling. I know the sled lift really saves your back when your working in the engine bay but i am not sure about working on the rear skid. I have two sleds that need the skids out for shock & bushing maintenance and not sure if the the lift restricts access to the rear suspension. I've gotten by with neither over the years but i am not getting any younger and dad's apex is heavy. LOL.
staggs65
Moderator
the lifts aren't good for removing the skid (at least the one i built from the plans in the tech section. you're better off with the hoist on the rear bumper or better yet flip the sled on its side. the lift is great for working under the hood though. you can stand up straight, no more hunching over to work.
opsled
Active member
I R&R skids on my lift all the time. Works great and you have the advantage of lowering the sled down on the skid to facilitate getting the bolts back in. I use blocks to prop the track/skid off the ground so I'm not working to low.
The trick to using one for the job is to remove the top pivot bolt on one of the rear props once the sled is in the air to R&R the skid from the track/tunnel. It will stand just fine on 3 legs and opens up one whole side for the job. I always put it back in before any up/down movements just to be safe.
opsled
The trick to using one for the job is to remove the top pivot bolt on one of the rear props once the sled is in the air to R&R the skid from the track/tunnel. It will stand just fine on 3 legs and opens up one whole side for the job. I always put it back in before any up/down movements just to be safe.
opsled
staggs65
Moderator
now there's an idea, good tip
ReaperSRX
Member
Great info, but i would be a little nervous removing the one side. Do you secure the sled to lift, like with a ratchet strap so it doesn't move around. I'm just thinking because you will still have to wrestle the skid out of the track. But i think i my back will thank me being able to work on the sled standing up!
I have built the sled lift from the plans mentioned on here, and I have dropped a 121" skid from a 97 SX, a 141" skid from a MM, a 153" skid from a Vector Mtn, a 162" skid from an Apex Mtn, and a 174" Timbersled skid from an Apex Mtn. The sled lift plans on here plain old work for everything. Lift, remove bolts, and pull out the skid.
And no I don't remove any pivot bolts or anything like that from the lift.
And no I don't remove any pivot bolts or anything like that from the lift.
ReaperSRX said:
Based on the drawings in the tech section it appears the lift in the drawings is similar to the one I bought years ago. I'd agree with Staggs that swapping skids with the sled on it's side is probably easier especially the install but I've pulled the skid out of my SRX and all the other mfgs. with the sled on the lift. My lift doesn't allow for lowering one leg of the lift (the rear lift legs are welded together with 1/4" strap across one side to the other). Gravity does kind of work against you as the skid wants to fall into the rear of the track but using an old rolled sheet type plastic kiddy sled liberally lubed helps the skid wheels slide in place over the inner track drive lugs.
Positioning the lift forward makes for more room out back for the skid swap but I like the idea of moving one of the rear lift legs to allow for more room but as I said, my lift won't allow for this.
As opsled also said, being able to raise and lower the sled over the skid comes in handy when guiding the skid in place and starting the retaining bolts.
...and I do strap the sled to the lift by securing a tie-down under the horizontal lift bars and attach to the sway bar on each side during skid swaps. Otherwise, the sled is fairly stable for most other types of repairs.
I've also had a handful of AVTs on it as well using 2x4s across the lift bars to accomodate different lift points and then also strap it down.
ReaperSRX
Member
Thanks guys, sled lift it is. I am also going to spend the extra $$ and get the wheels for the lift.
James
James
I also remove the top bolt and drop one side, wroks great! Never had any problems with the sled being off balance or wanting to tip either.
opsled
Active member
ReaperSRX said:
My sleds are heavy (RX1, Vmax-4). I have no issues with stability up in the air and one rear leg of the lift dropped to the ground but I will only raise/lower with all 4 attached.
Between my son and I we have three lifts. One aluminum (no wheels) two steel with wheels. They all do the job but one we both like best is the steel one with castors on the front side and straight wheels on the rear. It is much easier to roll the sled in the direction you want than the other steel one with 4 castors.
opsled.
opsled said:
My lift also has front casters and straight rear wheels. It also came with a stopper up front that is just a long bolt grinded to a point at the tip with bar stock welded to the top of the bolt to form a tee. It threads through a nut welded to the front cross member so you can turn the pointed tip down into the floor to keep the lift from moving on the casters.
All four wheels are channeled above the frame to keep the ground clearance low (about 1/2") which is great for getting it under a low slug sled but requires a flat floor.
You can use these "sled lifts" for just about anything lol.
ReaperSRX
Member
Hey, i like that idea of using those pool "noodles" as a protective cover for the top part of the lift. I think that would also help protect the running board heat-exchangers from getting damaged. Now hopefully my kids won't notice one of them missing from the pool. LOL!
I've actually never used them on there before but thought I better for the jet ski. But I think your right it would help the heat-exchangers too. I haven't really noticed any damage to them yet just a little on the "fins".
For the noodles I just took and cut them open all the way on one side and shoved them over top. They seem to be working.
For the noodles I just took and cut them open all the way on one side and shoved them over top. They seem to be working.
ReaperSRX said:
My lift came with un-split 3/4" heater hose riveted to the top of the lift bars for protection which seems to be holding up well.