I have a sx that I bought last yr that has rail ext from 121 to 136. I Wreaked the sled and trashed the chassis at the end of the yr. I found a newer sx chassis that is in good shape now just need to change every thing over. But i started into it and they dropped all the suspension mounting points. Should I do it to the other chassis or just the rear only? What was gained by dropping all the mount points just height or approach angle? The sled climbed good so I would like to go about the same.
snowdad4
VIP Member
yes, definately. if you have the old parts available and you enjoyed the way the sled worked, duplicate it to a T.00sxrjoe said:I have a sx that I bought last yr that has rail ext from 121 to 136. I Wreaked the sled and trashed the chassis at the end of the yr. I found a newer sx chassis that is in good shape now just need to change every thing over. But i started into it and they dropped all the suspension mounting points. Should I do it to the other chassis or just the rear only? What was gained by dropping all the mount points just height or approach angle? The sled climbed good so I would like to go about the same.
The only thing they made was the rear drop brackets. I could take the inner tunnel braces off and put on good chassis. But I just worry about using over the counter rivets. Not being strong enough.
snowdad4
VIP Member
dont use the cheap rivets. theres plenty of options for fastening these days.
do a site search for rivets and you will be surprised at your options.
i for one utilise the aircraft technology and prefer the buck style rivets, similar to what the factory should have used. i have used buttonhead allens with whizlock nuts and locktite on the drop brackets with great success. .
worst case, buy oem rivets based on an online parts breakdown and use the proper riveting tool, not the cheap pop rivet guns.
a short cut to moving the factory backing plates is simply adding your own plates made from 1/8" aluminum, properly sized and installed with adequate rivets or even bolts.
do a site search for rivets and you will be surprised at your options.
i for one utilise the aircraft technology and prefer the buck style rivets, similar to what the factory should have used. i have used buttonhead allens with whizlock nuts and locktite on the drop brackets with great success. .
worst case, buy oem rivets based on an online parts breakdown and use the proper riveting tool, not the cheap pop rivet guns.
a short cut to moving the factory backing plates is simply adding your own plates made from 1/8" aluminum, properly sized and installed with adequate rivets or even bolts.
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